Aftermarket headunit with original amp + original rear speakers possible?

[thomasmk]

Hello everybody,

I've searched a lot to find a solution for this, downloaded many (different) wiring diagrams now, but couldn't find a solution for this, or I'm too stupid to search the net correctly:

I installed an aftermarket radio (Xtrons PSD50WRJL, also known as ALPS FF-5000) with a 5" screen. It works without any problem regarding GPS/navigation, bluetooth phone and also radio/media.

However, the only thing I couldn't find out ist the way the original amp (under the passengers seat) is connected to the original radio. So actually only the front speakers (directly connected to the radio) are working, but the rear speakers including subwoofer do not get any output signal from the new headunit.

Queation: is there any possibility to get the output from the new headunit connected to the original amp? Something like an additional aftermarket adapter, building my own adapter, rewiring the radio/speaker harness, or anything else?
Or do I have to switch to a new aftermarket amp and replace the original amp (and rear speakers/subwoofer)?
I think that most people her which installed an aftermarket headunit also installed complete new speakers, amps and whatever, but my target is to keep the car as original as possible - but I also want to get the rear speakers working

Any hint to solve this?
Or is it not possible?

Best regards from Germany,
Thomas

Attached you find the wiring diagram of the aftermarket headunit.
My car is a Viper SRT-10 from 2005.

 

[Old School]

This will do it

https://www.amazon.com/Harmony-Audio-HA-706502-Chrysler-Aftermarket/dp/B01ES2Z1VI

 

[thomasmk]

Hi there,

thank you for the quick answer!
Unfortunately they don't ship to Germany, but I have already bought a similar fully equipped adapter from ebay (where all cables are completely included in the plug), so I simply only have to split the harness and connect the right cables?

Do you know if the standard output signals match the audio signal level that is going into the amp? What is the amp expecting at the input - the speaker output level, or the chinch audio output level?

I don't want to roast the amp, s I think it's better to ask twice... sorry for that.

Best regards from Germany,
Thomas

 

[Old School]

Yes, that adapter harness will work with the original amp, I've done it with mine, no problems.

 

[MoparMap]

Hi there,

thank you for the quick answer!
Unfortunately they don't ship to Germany, but I have already bought a similar fully equipped adapter from ebay (where all cables are completely included in the plug), so I simply only have to split the harness and connect the right cables?

Do you know if the standard output signals match the audio signal level that is going into the amp? What is the amp expecting at the input - the speaker output level, or the chinch audio output level?

I don't want to roast the amp, s I think it's better to ask twice... sorry for that.

Best regards from Germany,
Thomas

I'm pretty sure the factory amp uses speaker level inputs as it's using the standard outputs on the factory radio that was used in other cars that I believe did not use amps. Worst case, just make sure you start with the volume all the way down when you first turn things on and raise it slowly. You should be able to tell pretty quickly if it's going to be a problem or not. I rarely run my factory radio over even 1/4 of max volume and it gets plenty loud enough.

 

[thomasmk]

Hello everybody,

again one year gone...
however, this is just to let you know that I finally found the solution, thanks to somebody who figured it out before and posted a workaround on YouTube. Maybe this helps somebody in the future.

The problem sinply has been a wrong factory pin assignment for the speakers:
the aftermarket unit I use is a Xtrons PSD50WRJL, which is a direct replacement for the original radio. It works really good, but the speaker cables have the wrong polarity on two channels which prevents the subwoofer completely to work due to a short circuit on one channel. The front speakers are (incorrectly) working because they are directly connected to the unit, even if one channel has the wrong polarity (which causes the speaker to "swing opposite"), but the good thing: you simply have to change the output on two channels to get it to work correctly. You have to change the polarity of the white and the purple speaker cables, then the unit works flawlessy on all channels.

For you English speaking guys: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL2wqO8lM9A shows detailed what to do.

Thanks to everybody who tried to help, this is a really wonderful forum!

Best regards from Germany,
Thomas

 

[eaks]

Thanks for the response and including your solution to this post.

I had a plug and play headunit that I installed a few years ago and subwoofer didn't work properly. I was able to find a setting somewhere inside the unit that allowed me to swap polarity and once doing this everything worked perfect. Eventually this headunit died and I replaced it with a very similar unit. This new unit didn't have the same option and I did try swapping the green and purple wiring but this didn't solve the issue. I just went out last night and swapped everything as you mentioned here (only swapping polarity on the white and purple) and I believe this solved the issue for me as well. Weather wasn't great so I didn't go for a drive but in the garage I believe the subwoofer was working (i did find it hard to tell when sitting stationary in a garage and looking for movement and sound from the sub).

Thank you