Another question for Hoosier R6 guys...

[Allan]

.....Would just like to clarify what constitutes a "heat cycle" for these tires. I'm not asking about the heat cycle offered when you buy them, or before using them on the track or whatever. I'm asking about the usable lifespan of a set running HPDE's. Is a heat cycle one full day if the tires never really cool off, or is each session a heat cycle or what? Do they heat cycle out before they cord, or vice versa? I am more concerned about cording at this point, but maybe I got it backwards. .......Also ,if they haven't corded, but have too many heat cycles, what's up? no grip? banana peels? inconsistent? What?.............are there heat cycle police?.........

 

[Allan]

Also, there's always guys selling used R6's. What good is that? If the tires don't last very long, and they were taken off, why would somebody want to use those if they are only good for a few sessions? If they were still good for more than that, then why take them off?

 

[Boxer12]

Allan, a 'heat cycle' is every time the tire is run up to temps, which should be every session on the track. The Hoosier after about 6 cycles (less if run longer sessions like racing for 25 min) loses some speed, and then stays pretty consistent (but slower) to the cords. In HPDE, you prob won't notice much difference, since we are talking mere seconds and HPDE (until level 4) doesn't even have timing. To get the best mileage out of the tires, flip them every weekend if you run hard (which I think you do). The 'inconsistency' of the tires has more to do with temps and that has to do with a number of factors, including ambient and track temps, length of sessions, easy or hard braking, turning, etc. The R6 is slickest when cold or extremely hot. After a dozen heat cycles, the tire is harder to get up to temp, and can be slick for that reason. Hoosier A6 is a better HPDE tire IMO.

As for used tires, if you don't mind spend $1800 a set for new tires, go for it. Some guys have a budget and used tires are like used cars, much cheaper to operate overall. If that couple seconds on the initial heat cycles doesn't matter, why spend the money on new tires?

 

[AZTVR]

To get the best mileage out of the tires, flip them every weekend if you run hard

Just verifying that by "flip", you mean put inside to outside.

 

[Allan]

Just verifying that by "flip", you mean put inside to outside.

Yeah, he means flip them on the rims. No problem for me as I have my own tire machine and balancer. I already flip tires to conserve costs. Have run Sport Cups inside out after they're almost done to get a little more out of them. -no problem. I drive tires until they are corded and completely done. Then I drive home. (carefully)

 

[redtanrt10]

Allan, good answers by Boxer on heat cycles, flipping, consistency, etc. Good used tires come from pro type drivers (teams, shops) that may sell after 3-7 laps of qualifying or a 25 minute session. (They also have build dates of 1 year or less). Look for these situations vs the guys who says "1/2 tread, been in my garage for a couple of years"). A couple of other notes, front's take more punishment than the rears. After 12 heat cycles they get pretty beat up on a viper, rears usually can go 20 cycles. Track dependant, driving style, and camber create the wear variables. Out here at tracks like willow springs with two long and fast right turn sweepers you need to flip the tires at the end of the day. Good luck, Mike

 

[treesnake]

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FREQUENTLY ASKED ROAD RACING QUESTIONS​

​ 6. How do I know when it is time to replace my R6/A6 competition radials? Located on the tread surface of the tires are small divots or holes. These divots are called tread depth holes and are used to measure the wear of tread. Tread depth is usually referred to in 32nds of an inch. A brand new tire should measure 4/32 of depth in each of the holes. By keeping track of the number of laps on each set of tires and measuring the depth of tread, you can calculate how much wear is left in the tires. When the holes are completely flush with the tread, it is definitely time to change to a new set of tires. There is tread rubber under the depth hole and the tire can continue to be run, but the driver must be aware the performance level will be at its lowest. When this rubber below the depth hole is gone, you will then see the first layer of cords. At this point, the safety of the tire is now compromised and the worn tires should be replaced. The driver must be the ultimate measure of when to replace the tires. There might be measurable tread depth on the tire, but the performance (grip or handling) of the tire might be low. To get the most wear out of your R6/A6 competition tires, be sure to rotate front to rear or side to side after an event. (Top)

 

[Boxer12]

You will see cords on the outside shoulder (easy to see, just beware if you are running long sessions) before you wear the center section to its cords. If you are running tires to the point of patches of cords on the tread section, you are not valuing your car or your life imo. If you get a flat spot, change the tire, they cord quickly. I've seen guys come away from races with that kind of cording on tires, and I just think they are lucky to be in one piece. If you buy used tires, know who you are buying from bcz experienced guys with a healthy respect for safety won't sell you a tire they think is dangerous. At least I don't know anyone who would do that.

 

[Allan]

So I guess this is really a subjective deal, aside from killer performing track tire that doesn't last very long. I am planning to finally step up and try a set next season. (economics dictate that I should finish off the last of my current tires) -also it's beginning to get a little cooler weather. ......Next is, where is the best place to buy these (new)? Are there any vendors or tire distribution centers that give a discount for VCA guys?