B&M / Hurst Shifter Owners - Feedback please

[ViperJoe]

Anyone that has tried both?

Pros, Cons?

I know it's probably subjective like exhaust, but I am trying to decide between
the MGW knob that I currently have (mounted directly to the insulator, which you know is considerably shorter that that stock pipe with the ball on the end), the B&M Ripper, and the Hurst.

The B&M looks a lot different than the hurst with that cast metal offset gizmo on it, I don't know what purpose it serves if any.
On my 98 Viper I was happy with the Detert short shaft, stock knob sans the insulator for my shifter of choice.
On the other hand, I remember with my Z-06, I tried the B&M, Hurst and Kirban shifters. Finally settleing on the Hurst.
I don't want to go through that process again with the Viper.

Thanks for you help

 

[Russ M]

I have had a B&M and MGW short knob for about 5 years now, and cant complain. Just the B&M is not short enough for my taste even though its a vast improvement over stock.

 

[FlyBryViper]

Joe, although I only own and race with a B&M, I have driven 2 Vipers with the Hurst. Knobs aside, I can't tell any difference in the shifting action.
At over 16,000 shifts required for this years Viper Days, the B&M has held-up fine, no noticeable change or wear.

 

[sparty116]

The only reason I went with the Hurst is it's supposedly the one used on the CC. I like it a lot, direct bolt in, no adjusting. Nice short, solid shift. WAY better than the OEM one.

 

[Bobpantax]

I have had the one mentioned below for a number of years. It works well. The data below is from the SVS web site.

SVS Short Ratio Shifter

Price: $325.00

SVS short ratio shifter works on all year Vipers 1993-2004. Gen I, Gen II and Gen III Viper shifters can be upgraded to this smooth and tight feeling shifter.
SVS shift handle adjustment bolts
These solid stainless shift handle adjustment bolts allow you to lower the original stock shift handle height by 1" or 2".
Both adjustment bolts are included when ordering the SVS short ratio shifter.
If you are interested in just purchasing the bolts seperately they are $25.00 ea.

 

[Brad Manhattan Beach]

Joe:

I have driven both the B&M and the SVSi an dthere is absolutely no comparison between the two. The B&M is soft and dampened feeling with very imprecise gates that offer very numb feedback. I broke 2 of them.

On the other hand the SVSi is very precise and notchy feeling. You'll know exactly when you have hit a gear because of the firmness of the gates and the positive feedback. This shifter has adjustable bump stops and not only shortens the throw, but also closes up the width of the H pattern... as in closed ratio. Going from 2nd gear to 3rd is a straight shot (without the need for any sideways motion.

Some people prefer something closer to the stock shifter (which is very soft and dampened), then B&M or Hurst is probably the way to go.

If you want something that will add to your feel of each shift hitting each gear, then the only way to go is SVSi. I would swear buy it... especially when tracking your car.

If you ever get out to Southern Cal, you are more than welcome to try mine out. It's been on my car for almsot 8 years... and I drive my car almost 365 days each year.

That's my $.02. I hope that my input helps clarify some of your questions. Good luck.

Brad

 

[Irid]

The Hurst shifter is like a rifle bolt, I love mine. Short throw, no imprecision at all. Great upgrade.

 

[ViperJoe]

Thanks guys......might just wait until Viper Days 2006 and drive one of each if I can find them.

 

[Boxer12]

What about length of shift lever? Cost? Jim

 

[Blue Batmobile]

anyone with pics of the Hurst shifter installed?

Bat™

 

[Bolt]

I read this thread and bought the B&M. Put my stock nob on it to see if I could really feel a difference. OK, It was a big difference. If anyone has thought of upgrading their shifter it's a must do thing. I can feel my shifts click into place. No more, Well did it mesh that gear thought when I'm bounding my car. I got the B&M for 2nd Gen for $214 on E-bay. Buy it now! I'm happy wiht this mod.

Bolt

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Did the B&M bolt straight in???? Or any modding needed?
Many thanks

 

[snampro]

I'm extremely happy with my Hurst, install was not difficult, shifting is deliberate and precise, I'm using the Hurst shifter ball.

 

[Bolt]

Did the B&M bolt straight in???? Or any modding needed?
Many thanks

It bolted right in and worked fine. There where three issues you need to be aware of.

1. Getting the rivets out around the shifter boot is not an easy task. The center steel pin of the rivets are harder than normal. This means drilling may not be easy. It's suggested to drill with 1/4 inch drill. That is just about impossible. I used a 1/16 drill and drilled only about 1/16 inch deep then used a 3/8 drill to drill off the head or thr rivet. I did this to all rivets. I put a screwdriver under the boot and pried off the rubber boot from each rivet. I then used a hammer and hit the remaining rivet through the hole.

2. Drill out the shifter boot where you just took out the rivits. Drill out the rubber only. It has a layer of metal in it. Drill it so the supplied bolts will fall through. If you do not do this the self taping bolts will not self tap or work properly and you will get **********.

3. You need to drill the floor console area with a 3/4 inch hole saw to access the two right side bolts. The diagram does not give dimensions and it is a guess where to drill. The front right is not so bad if you miss it but the right rear has a 1 inch tube support under the sheet metal console and if you hit that you will be drilling another hole till you can get your socket to access the bolt.


Bolt

 

[RoadiJeff]

I installed an SVS shifter this past weekend. Whoever said it is a one-hour job must work in a pit crew at the Indy 500 in May. I have a list of 25 or so things I'm doing while the car is up on jackstands and I was working on a few other items off and on but that doggone shifter took up the majority of two days.

I had first tried to install it from above but, as was mentioned in the last message, the rivets do not drill out very easily, at least on a '99 with brass rivets. I got frustrated and decided to go at it from underneath since it was up on the jackstands anyway. I have no air tools and trying to remove those 4 bolts with a ratchet and/or box end wrench was almost impossible. I dropped the trans 1.5-2 inches like the VCA how-to said but it was still almost impossible and I don't have very big hands.

Haven't been able to test drive it yet because there are a few more things I want to do underneath before taking it down off the stands. I just wanted to add my 2-cents in that it was a major PITA. Hope it was all worth it.

 

[Bolt]

I am very mechanically inclined and it took me about 1 1/2 hour to put my B&M shifter in. Yes If I did it again I could do it in less time but the first time will take you awhile. Especially if you are reading the directions.

Bolt

 

[Bolt]

After putting mine in from the top. I would recommend doing it from the top. When you remove the old shifter you need to clean off the gasket material. Allot of dirt will fall into the shifter area. Be sure to put a rag in there before cleaning off the gasket material. Remove all gasket material and be sure there is no dirt in that area. It is pretty easy to clean out and see around.

Note: Put a little vasolene on the ball of the new shifter before putting in. You do not want your ball dry.


Bolt

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Thanks for the how to on the shifter....

If you did it from below the car as well as above do you still need to drill the holes to get to the bolts???
Many thanks

 

[RoadiJeff]

No, if you do it from below you really don't even need to remove the console. Some guys don't like drilling those holes, although they don't show when everything is back together. I found a couple of perfect fit snap-in plastic plugs at work that I'd planned on using to keep air out and for a more factory look (even though it doesn't show).

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Looks like i will be one of those guys...
Realy dont like drilling holes unless i have to..

 

[EllowViper]

I got by with drilling 1/2 in holes and using my 1/4 inch drive sockets on the bolts under the holes. No sweat. I like RoadiJeff's idea with the plugs. Had the same thought but didn't have the plugs handy.

 

[Bolt]

The B&M kit comes with nylon circles which stick over the holes. I think it is no more than nylon decal material about 1 inch in diameter. They stick prety good. I don't think they will come off since there is no direct force on them.

Bolt

 

[TedK]

I spent some extra cash to get it done my way......modified(shortened) Hurst shifter and shortened stock ball. Got both from FinalGTS, great service. The Hurst is just like Irid said, a rifle bolt and very precise.

Ted K

 

[Racer Robbie]

Just a note about installing the Mopar/Hurst shifter. We do them from under the car. If you have a lift it is quite easy. We remove the shifter bezel and remove the shifter handle. We mark the transmission crossmember and them remove the 4 bolts so we can lower the tail end of the transmission on to an adjustable stand. Then we remove the 4 bolts on the stock shifter and slip it out. Put in the new and bolt everything back up. It is tight but there is just enough space to do it if you are carefull. This way you do not have to fight with drilling out the rivets or removing the console.

Robbie

 

[Hiss]

Had my mopar hurst shifter installed for a few weeks. Really like it. Very precise shifts. So much better than stock. I am using the MGW first strike knob, its a little higher than MGW or hurst round knobs but this gives me a little more leverage. I need it with my shoulder problem. The round knobs do look better. Sometimes I put the hurst round knob on.

I will add that every one that drives the viper really likes the feel of the first strike knob. A friend of mine that has a track experience really liked it, said it had a great feel to it and could change gears easy.

Pic of shifter with different knobs

 

[zorroespanol]

Note: Put a little vaseline on the ball of the new shifter before putting in. You do not want your ball dry.


Bolt

Please don't tempt me like this!! I already have a warning from lewd jokes, but it is hard to resist with something like this!!

HAHAHAHHA

 

[jcaspar1]

Had my mopar hurst shifter installed for a few weeks. Really like it. Very precise shifts. So much better than stock. I am using the MGW first strike knob, its a little higher than MGW or hurst round knobs but this gives me a little more leverage. I need it with my shoulder problem. The round knobs do look better. Sometimes I put the hurst round knob on.

I thought the Hurst had different threads than the stock shifter? Does the Mopar version have different threads or did I hear wrong?

 

[snampro]

after driving about 1000 miles on my new Hurst shifter I have only noted one "problem". When I'm driving at an easy pace and shifting gently into second I have had it pop out of gear about 3 times. In all cases I have failed to properly pull the shifter into gear (like I didn't pull it bad hard enough). I have never had this problem when driving hard and shifting aggressively and it has never popped out once engaged, just caught me by surprise a couple times.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Quote: "
I thought the Hurst had different threads than the stock shifter? Does the Mopar version have different threads or did I hear wrong?"
----------------------------------------------------------

You did not hear wrong as they were different back in 2003 when the hurst/Mopar first came out. Now the threads are all the same size as stock. 1/2"

Click on my name and web site to see this shifter and some of the different shifter knobs that are availble to fit it.