Body repair or replacement

Kevin ACR

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I hit the rear of a Camry at about a 5 mph differential. We were in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic. looked away long enough to have to slam the brankes on, skidded and smoked the tires from about 20 and then hit the darn car in front of me with the passenger side.

hard enough to pop the hood up on one side and put some visible cracks in the underside in about 5 various spots. After the "bump" the one side was up about 2 feet, the other latched down tight. I couldn't believe the twist it was holding without splitting, that is one strong component. Anyhow, not that lucky, there are several paint cracking situations, the fiberglass box is wasted behind the fascia, the one side of the frame horn that reaches out to the fascia bent about 30 degrees (crumple zone)

wheel touched curb so shaved the lip, wheel gone.

headlight tore from the mounts, gone

Airbox cracked at mounts

radiator pushed back 2 inches on one side where frame rail reached to the front.

Fiberglass "2x4" that is in the front of the car broke up in a few spots.

1/4 inch damage to leading edge of "permanent" front fender, very small area.

Frame needs to be pulled straight and new hinge assemble installed, as that folded on one of the arms that reach from spring to spring to support the hood.

the hood bumped the body work near the mirror and put a fingernail size gouge in teh leading edge of the upper door.

Front fascia has minor scuffs, but one slight indentation the size of a fingernail that seemed to take and won't leave

No liquids leak, and no gap changes to the doors, the piece in front of the doors etc. Car runs perfect, was a slow situation. Had the brakes locked , tires smoking and just punched the camry. All he had was surface scuffs on teh rear bumper. <font color="green"> </font> <font color="black"> </font>

2 major concerns for the group:

Should I seek a new hood or repair?

the worst damage is where the one metal loop is attached to the driver side, it tore half out of the glass. the whole thing would have to be gone over, stripped, glass repaired and repainted. Will State farm support a new hood, any experienced people. I have 1K deductible.

2) I think I could make it drivable with minimal expense and a frame pull. Use the car for the summer. Will an insurance company typically let me defer repairs?

ANY BODY SHOP RECOMMENDATIONS IN DETROIT METRO AREA WITH VIPER EZPERIENCE&lt; PROFESSIONAL OUTPUT?

Any advice appreciated. Sorry for the disorganized post, just pretty bummed, had a new diff put in yesterday at 10k miles for whine and had the trans and clutch fluids changed. It really was perfect. Had it just how I wanted it!


thanks
 

Ulysses

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New/used hood.

Not sure what you mean by defer repairs, but once the insurance company ponies up the cash, what you do with the repairs is up to you.
 

hemibeep

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As I read this is feel your pain. I bought a car in worse condition and am doing my own repair. I would argue with insurance to get a new hood if possible. The cracks in the hood may be gremlins that come back. The frame in the front is very thin and does not do very well with a frame pull. It might require replacement! I could not find a "piece" of frame just the hole $10k new or buy used. The bumper 2x4 is available in repro. The hinge parts may be able to get seperate. You can "guesstimate" the prices by going to tenafly dodge and look at their online collision catalog for some prices. This will not be a cheap repair. Also try an ebay person called "X 2 Scott" for used pieces such as the frame rail. They were very helpful and went out of their way to help.
 
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Kevin ACR

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Thanks for the replies, if the hood is missing pieces, especially at the latch mechanism...which it is, they will replace for saftey issue. The hole in the fascia necessitates replacement as well. This whole thing is going to get costly, I'm sstill debating with mself wheter or not to take eh insurance check adn become teh "general contractor on the repairs. The frame is very thin up there, it bent real easy, thus the busted headlght box and air box and radiator pushed back.

I makes me sick, 3 months of summer...so far one month of rain....just got it right and then whammo. One moment in time and the once original car is changed forever.

I will look at the suppliers you spoke of to get an idea on prices. I'm thinking seriously of have autometrix just do the whole repair, although my insurance company will cash me out. The body shop does exotics and has a guarantee it will be back to original with no evidence of damage or repair. All the way down to the way the stripes are laid on and have an edge on them.

Man that front end goes up in pieces fast and easy. My grand prix can take the same hit and show nothing, bummer.
 

AviP

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Your damage definitely sounds like more than a 5mph differential. And not 10mph either. It's definitely 15-20mph. I feel your pain though having had more than my fair share of fender benders.

Don't force a hood replacement since it could total the car. Based on dealer replacement costs, you have over 30K (low side) in damages. As such you will get a salvage car title and then have the burden to prove it's runnability.

pm me.
 
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Kevin ACR

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The one hood latch is torn from the hood, including the top layer with paint. The traffic never really exceeded 25mph, and i had 5-7 feet of skid marks. It may not have been 5 mph but it wasn't any 20 either. Hit one of these cars off center and look at what happens. it immediately compresses the nose onto the fiberglass 2x4 hooked directly to the two frame horns. an off center hit and the frame is very thin, it folds quite nicely, probably saving any further damage further back in the car. The one frame horn when pulled out or replaced will allow a new hinge assembley to be installed, then the hood will mount.

From there the repair is simple. There are no drivability issues, none, not even an alignment issue. try panic braking on 90 degree asphalt and see how much smoke and how slippery it is at 20 mph. It is like hydro planing and I couldn't pump the brakes in that millisecond.

My thought is that although it may wind up being an expensive repair based on a 15k hood and a 3k fascia ( it was punctured) , the car is 100% race ready as it sits....excluding a few aerodynamic pieces.

It is not functionally impaired and I don't feel intimiditaed by the process. If there is a decision to total car I'll be shocked, but not sad, I'll take the cash and buy the car back. That would be a bargain. Accidents happen and these cars don't have a lot of rubber pieces to allow bounce back. They are pretty tightly put together. GM mounts their headlights on rubber mounts, these are abs plastic standoffs secured very tightly to the headlamp unit Take a GM and take a viper, trust me there is a difference in the impact they can sustain in a minor fender bender and the resulting damage.

You would be surprised how easily the hood pops up and you rip apart glass under impact. Unless you have some kind of expertise, how can you make such firm statements about speed, just curious?

The viper hood is made of about 5 pieces of smc and when twisted that much you wind up with one heck of a lot of stress cracks on top and underneath.
 

Ulysses

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Check underneath and see if the body pan has a good wrinkle in it, if not then it's probably worth straightening the frame horns. You'ld be amazed at how true they can make these things now a days with the advancement in machinery.

It's true though that they will total a car if the cost get's too high. A hood and facia might not get you there, even with pulling the frame straight. It's all the other stuff you can't see yet like bumper, radiator support, wheel well, etc....
 

Jerry Dobson

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FYI: The Viper Frame is tubular. You are not supposed to pull or straighten it. It will be weak once it is bent back. Frames are to be replaced. Cost is $8500. You can section the frame. Cut out the bad and just replace the bent pieces.

I would not repair the hood. I would want a new one. Since you pulled the latches loose, it will not be as strong repaired. You may also have hairline cracks from the impact.

It does sound like it could be a $20k+ repair job. Even if it hits 30k, you are driving a 2000 ACR. They are worth much more than that...I don't see the car being totaled.
 

SylvanSRT

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Hi Kevin, Autoform has replacement hoods, I know of a really good body shop if you need it. if this is an insurance repair if the hood is that damaged i would have it replaced. The body shops i would consider are Autometric in pontiac/sylvan lake or Knudsen Brothers on Ford rd. in Canton/Westland. Knudsen did some work on my '02 RT scraped front facia. they do very good work! Tell Cliff that i sent you. good luck mike
 

SylvanSRT

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Additionally this is why Vipers have one of the highest per incedent claims. The Average claim with all other cars involved in an insuarance claim is around $2,400. The average claim involving a Viper is around $24,000!
 

AviP

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You would be surprised how easily the hood pops up and you rip apart glass under impact. Unless you have some kind of expertise, how can you make such firm statements about speed, just curious?
Unfortunately, my expertise is from the numerous fender benders :( I've had, on-center and off-center at speeds of 10-30mph.

If you would rather prefer the car totalled, then you might actually come up with a profit. Autoform replacement hoods are around $3300 for the carbon fiber model. :p
 

AviP

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Additionally this is why Vipers have one of the highest per incedent claims. The Average claim with all other cars involved in an insuarance claim is around $2,400. The average claim involving a Viper is around $24,000!
The price on most Gen 2 parts went up by 50% when production stopped. So the 10K hood got to be 15K. The CF hood from Autoform is a steal at $3300 being 60lbs lighter too.
 
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Kevin ACR

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What kind of fit can you expect from the Autoform hoods? How do they look on the top and bottom. Do they have the louvers and Naca duct? Anyone using the hood that can give me some feedback on this?

Thanks
 

SylvanSRT

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I have heard they do them out of carbon fiber, i think w/ vents you can also add a center GTS-R style vent. the CF hood is also lighter. I might consider leaving it unpainted painting only the vents body color or black and then adding your stipe color on the bare CF. might look really cool.
 

King RT10

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Call vipermed. Since he sells his own hood I am sure he has stock a hood laying around.
 

chickenwarrior

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Having repaired several Viper Hoods, I can tell you it is no easy task. The glasswork alone took months. Also I have had problems in the past of "bubbles" appearing under the paint some 30 days later when exposed to the direct sinlight and heat. In one case, I had to repair and repaint the hood twice after I thought it was "perfect". So what I am saying is make sure you have someone experienced repair the hood and offer a guarantee of some sort. What looks good now may not in a few months.....
 

dansauto

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FYI: The Viper Frame is tubular. You are not supposed to pull or straighten it. It will be weak once it is bent back. Frames are to be replaced. Cost is $8500. You can section the frame. Cut out the bad and just replace the bent pieces. Yes-then can be straigneted if they are not kinked. The only frames that can not be straightned are hydroformed (C-6 Corvette) as the forming process yeilds tensile strength. Tube frames are straightened all the time. You can not straighten one that is "kinked" Then you are correct and it will have a week spot.

I would not repair the hood. I would want a new one. Since you pulled the latches loose, it will not be as strong repaired. You may also have hairline cracks from the impact. These also can be repaired, but unlessyou can find all the cracks they will resurface. Lots of used hoods out there now or get an aftermarket one even cheaper

It does sound like it could be a $20k+ repair job. Even if it hits 30k, you are driving a 2000 ACR. They are worth much more than that...I don't see the car being totaled.
 
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