Brake Fade

[BlkViper]

Hey all!

I took my '04 Viper out for some good stick time and decided to test the brakes out. I accelerated until around 160 and got on the brakes real hard. To my surprise, the brakes faded out almost instantly. Now granted I was smart and left tons of room incase this did happen but if I really did need to get on the brakes to avoid something at that speed, it would be all bad. It felt as if the brakes were non-existant and took FOREVER to stop. The are was running at normal operating temps and the brakes werent used that much up to this point.

Has anyone experienced this? What would cause the brakes the fade that bad, that quick.. Especially since these brakes are supposeably very good.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

 

[Garron]

how old is your brake fluid?

 

[BlkViper]

I bought the vehicle back in February and have not changed the brake fluid. So it could be original for all I know

The reservoir is at the proper capacity. Think that it would make the brakes fade that bad?

 

[Leslie]

yeh, what Garron said!

As I am sure you know, there are several different kinds of brake fade...pad fade (lack of friction from pad), green fade (new pads that weren't bedded properly) and fluid fade (moisture in lines, old fluid).

That's a very high speed to be driving with stock calipers...and stock pads...and stock brake lines...? and to try to stop that heavy a car.

 

[Darbgnik]

From that speed mine will make you queasy from the braking force.
Also, these cars are capable of repeated stops from that speed on the track, with stock pads, the Gen 3's have phenominal brakes right out of the box. No need to improve them like the Gen 2's.
Somethings not right.

 

[dtenney]

Bleed brake fluid and check brake pad thickness. Brake fluid should be bleed every two years at most depending on usage. Track duty equals bleeding the brakes before every event.

-David

 

[BlkViper]

The pads were checked by the Vipertech on my last oil change and told me there was still plenty of pad left. I sure hope it is just a brake fluid problem!

Im just leery because it sure did feel like it was pad fade. It went from solid grip to just nothing. Hopefully I wrong!

 

[eucharistos]

+1 on bleed and refill

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Could you feel the ABS pulsating when it faded? You could have jumped on the brakes quick/hard enough at that speed that you did not give the tire a prayer of getting traction, there would be air under the cars front end and the ABS would have come on instantly. Sometimes people call this "ice mode" and yes it will feel like nothing is happening. Also if the engine is wound out and you don't give it a second to build vacuum pressure before you apply the brakes it will feel the same way.

 

[ViperGeorge]

Something is not right. I've had several Gen 3 Vipers on the track where I've braked from 155 or more with stock pads. The car stops. I doubt fluid, unless it is really, really bad would cause brake fade after only one stop, even if it was from 160. Fluid fade would happen because the fluid boiled. Hard to do with just one stop unless the fluid was full of water. I'd look more at the pads being too thin. Thin pads won't dissipate the heat and will fade quickly.

 

[fireball]

Do a brake bleed for sure. I'd also take a close look at the rotors too. They're likely glazed and can be 'brought back' with a vigorous treatment with garnet sandpaper until they change color. Re-bed the brakes like they were new, and you should be OK. The glazing is likely caused by improper bedding and extended light brake use.

There's a lot of information on this on the Stop Tech website. It talks about using garnet style sandpaper (no other type) and bedding your brakes.

It's certainly worth a look.

Greg

 

[GTS Dean]

Without repeated high-speed decel runs, I would generally disagree that the fluid is boiling. I'd recommend changing it anyway because it's inexpensive and safe.

The pads/rotors could be glazed. Another possiblility is sticking pistons. Pull the pads and carefully check for piston travel. Pull one pad at a time, insert a wooden or plastic shim about 1/2" thick x 2" wide and about 5" long (roughly the size of the pad, but thinner) and confirm that the pistons are indeed moving. Carefully pry both pistons back into their bores, reinsert pads and do the same procedure on the opposite side of the caliper until you've done all 4 corners - both caliper halves.

 

[GTS Bruce]

If you bang the brakes on instead of pressing them on the car will tend to stand on its nose and not use much of the rears regardless of abs. GTS Bruce