Brake upgrade for Gen II. Recirculating fluid?

[crazyspeed]

OK continuing with low cost brake upgrades>I've got Tom's 40mm brake caliper upgrade, and ss lines.

Now looking to install valve for recirculating brake fluid. Anyone have track experience with this mod and can relate noticeable difference before and after install?

Also, anyone gone to the Essex site and did a comparo on the Ferodo pads? Their Ferodo DS2500 pads are rated at 1300 deg and they claim to be the best for occass. track use?
( yes, I know , for only a little more I could get Dave's Big Brakes...or ....for a serious brake upgrade....just buy a new Viper

 

[luc]

OK continuing with low cost brake upgrades>I've got Tom's 40mm brake caliper upgrade, and ss lines.

Now looking to install valve for recirculating brake fluid. Anyone have track experience with this mod and can relate noticeable difference before and after install?

Also, anyone gone to the Essex site and did a comparo on the Ferodo pads? Their Ferodo DS2500 pads are rated at 1300 deg and they claim to be the best for occass. track use?
( yes, I know , for only a little more I could get Dave's Big Brakes...or ....for a serious brake upgrade....just buy a new Viper

I use this system on 1 of my race car but frankly if I had to do it again I would use water cooling this time

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Do you have any ducts? Cone brake duct kit and Castrol SRF has solved my brake heat problem.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Tom has posted on this in the past.

His last post may help:

http://forums.viperclub.org/tire-wheel-brake-suspension/629600-brake-fade.html#post2746153

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I use this system on 1 of my race car but frankly if I had to do it again I would use water cooling this time

1) Did it work?
2) why switch to water cooling (to vanes in rotors, I assume?)


Woodhouse used to sell a kit; before I was paying attention I think they used it on their race cars. We need Mr. Pemberton or Mr. Jorgensen to comment!

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

We did sell quite a few of these systems for VRL cars and they worked great. The valves were expensive back then and the time it took to bend and fit all the needed tubing was considerable so the cost was high. We have since stopped having them laying around because the market for it has dropped off. It was a very affective system for non ABS cars.

I may have a valve and "some" tubing left I could look for if someone wanted it.

 

[luc]

1) Did it work?
2) why switch to water cooling (to vanes in rotors, I assume?)


Woodhouse used to sell a kit; before I was paying attention I think they used it on their race cars. We need Mr. Pemberton or Mr. Jorgensen to comment!

Hi Tom:

hard to say since I did it at the same time than a major brake upgrade on my 69 race Mustang, 13" rotor, Wilwood 6 pistons calipers, air ducts, Motul 600, etc.

Water cooling is easy and cheap to do, is proven to work (I have it on my Roush Mustang T/A) and can be dialed in by adjusting/changing the size of the misters in the air ducts.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

We did sell quite a few of these systems for VRL cars and they worked great. The valves were expensive back then and the time it took to bend and fit all the needed tubing was considerable so the cost was high. We have since stopped having them laying around because the market for it has dropped off. It was a very affective system for non ABS cars.

I may have a valve and "some" tubing left I could look for if someone wanted it.

I did this on my car quite some time ago (plaguarizing is the most sincere form of flattery.) Not to be poking anyone, but ducting, blowing, or squirting on parts is like putting out the fire while circulating the fluid (think about it - brake fluid is the only one that doesn't) is like preventing the fire. And frankly, the total cost can be less than some ducting kits.

A quick search shows the valve can be purchased for $130-$180; instead of bending all lines I used SS flex line (need about 12-15 feet) so only had to bend up very short sections at the MC, and made my own "T" fitting to replace the bleeder screws. This last part is specific to the caliper model, obviously important, can't leak or break, and starts the "return" section. If that "T" were available, the rest is easy.

Here's a clip from an email with more information:

This is the valve that I purchased (LC/SB Brake Fluid Recirculator)
DPI Racing Products Online

This place has them on sale for $34!!!
STEWART COMP | D.BRAKE RESURCULATOR

This looks like another company's version that does the same thing.
DPI Racing Products Online

A description of an enhanced version of the recirculator valve. Not sure if needed...
DPI Racing Products Online

This is a package deal that provides fittings. It uses the recirculator version that senses rear brake line pressure.
www.pitstopusa.com - Detail

Image of the "T" needed to connect the two bleeder screw holes.
Wilwood Engineering - Self Bleed Lines / Check Valve

Pages from a Google books search that describes the brake fluid circulation:
"OEM & Racing Brake Technology" page 170
Brake systems: OEM & racing brake ... - Google Books