Break-in Question

BigsViper

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Is This where the "Stump The Guru's" section is now?

After reading the posts regarding break-in proceedures (and the manual)I have been attempting to follow JonB's recommendation (check the archives) (I'm only "cheating" a little bit, Jon!). However, I took my snake to show to a guy who owns two vipers and probably 70 other mopars in various states of (dis)repair, some really nice and some just for parts. He is known around this area as a mopar expert, was lead mechanic and shop foreman for a big dealership here years ago, and now owns several fleet brokerages. He helped me when I was shopping, including letting me drive both his '94 RT/10 and his '98 GTS to see the difference.

Of course I let him drive my'00GTS and he loved it. However, he advised me to vary the speed (of course) and run the RPM up to 3500-4500, then let off the gas and leave it in gear (making that burbling sound). He said this creates a vaccum and pulls oil up into the cylinders, bathing them in oil. At that time I had about 800 miles on and the oil level had never moved. I took his suggestion for about 150 miles, and burned a quart of oil. When I took it in to the dealer yesterday for the second oil change (1st at 250, 2nd at 950), the tech/shop foreman said vary speed, yes, but he feels brakes are cheaper than rods and he doesn't even recommend downshifting at all, as it puts much stress on the rods. I drove the car another 50 miles like I had before the burbling tip and it burned no oil.

Due to this brief test I have pretty much decided to go back to my old gentle ways, but I am wondering about the physics of this, what other peoples experiences are, and if this will happen after break-in as well. I hope JonB will take this opportunity to grace me with his untold wisdom and humor.
Still can't believe what a great resource this board and club are!!!

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Steve-Indy

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That level of oil consumption would concern me IF indeed it was real...i.e., YOU checked the dipstick EXACTLY the same way, same time after shutdown, on level ground etc....in other words, carefully document oil level every 50-100 miles for awhile.

Sounds to me like you were appropriately conservative early on (referencing Herb Helbig's recommendations in the Spring issue of Viper Mag on page 36). With only a few miles to go, most of break-in seems complete, but I would be cautious for awhile. As another is Viper coming here soon, we will be EXTREMELY careful with 2001 break-in(though it is HARD, as the little Devil on my shoulder keeps saying "GO FOR IT"!!). Let us know progress as WE ALL have a VERY vested interest. Happy Holidays,

Steve Ind/Ky VCA
 
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BigsViper

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I check the oil while parked in the same, level spot in the garage (my Viper Den) usually after the snake has rested for an hour or two or overnight. I will begin to keep a log - good idea.
 

SoCal Rebell

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You say you have a 2000 model, do you know if it is an "early" 2000. The first 200 units built had powdered metallic piston sleeves which were too hard for the rings to seat is some Vipers. My motor was burning a quart every 150-200 miles. The motor is now in Michigan getting a rebuilt from DC. Keep written records on the oil
consumption if it persists have DC check the VIN to see if is an early car and if youneed a rebuild (I sure hope not it takes 8-12 weeks).

Motorless Ron (SoCal Rebell)
 

Y2K5SRT

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JonB, as usual, is dead on. On my drive back from CAAP, I did indeed vary the RPM's and do a number of off ramps. I would strongly recommend the same for ANY new engines, including rebuilds. Indeed, I plan to drive my car back from Woodhouse as long as the roads are dry (no snow) in a few weeks. With a fresh factory rebuild, I will treat it with kid gloves and follow the proper break-in procedure. A mild pain in the butt (no WOT), but well worth the results!

Chris
 

Ray R

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So, if the majority of initial miles put on a '00 or '01 are on the highway (varying speed and taking off-ramps), should we assume that it may take more than 1000 miles to break in the engine? Conversely, if the majority of initial miles are driven in town, maybe signal to signal type of driving, can we assume it may take less than 1000 miles for proper break in? Or would break in be more accurately measured in hours instead of miles? Since our cars do not have hour meters, that may be difficult. I guess the point of my rambling is that no one has offered a "hard and fast" way to determine if the engine is properly broken in. Even Jon and Herb's comments regarding break in are somewhat subjective. How many off-ramps? How many "light throttle run-ups" per 200 mile interval? The problem here is that we new owners are all anxious as heck to get to that WOT point. We just want to make sure that before we "go for it", our mechanicals (both car and personal) are ready for it!!! We know our cars are built for track use. We just want them to last forever. Any clarification?
 
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BigsViper

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My MDH is 090512, so I don't think I was an early build. I think I am on track on the break-in, as a matter of fact my Tech says no WOT until 2000 miles! Since I feel he is part of my team I will try to honor this. By cheating I mean I have been to 5/8 to 3/4 WOT, but have never come close to the bottom of the right pedal travel. Don't think I have been much over 4500 RPM maybe to 5000 for a second.

I guess my real question is: what would cause this engine to use oil for just the short time I ran at relatively high 3000-3500 RPM and then off throttle de-cel? any ideas? Oil blowing by rings during the vacuum? Thanks DB
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Mike Brunton

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What I heard from John Lingenfelter (I hope everyone knows who he is!) a while back was that any more than 10 minutes at the same RPM is too long when breaking in an engine.

It's not the distance traveled, it's the time at a given RPM. If you are breaking in a new engine, go from 6th to 5th to 4th back to 5th back to 6th. Change gears every 10 minutes or less. Also, I would take an exit ramp every hour or so just to run through ALL the gears.

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BlackSnake

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Lots of questions about break-in periods. I'm curious about the risks of not following these suggestions. Don't get me wrong, I'm going by the book, but I'm still interested
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BigsViper

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Blacksnake, this is my second time through this topic in six weeks (check archives) I will probably be through break-in and still won't feel completely comfortable. Why? Because there are almost as many break-in suggestions as there are members, from running WOT from day one to baby-ing it for 2500 miles!

Most folks on this board that have been here for any length of time recognize Mr. JonB as a (if not the) leading authority, once again check the archives for his detailed procedure. Along with that came his dour warning....

"THE YEAR MATTERS!!! 2000's HAVE TIGHTER RING ASSEMBLIES!!!
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CHEATERS WILL PAY!
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My advice - ignore these words at your peril (and a possible early rebuild).
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BigsViper

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Mystery Solved! Forgive my Stupidity!
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Saturday before a drive I checked the oil and it was between the "s" and the "a" on the dipstick. After running about 50 miles I backed into the garage and checked it again Sunday afternoon. Now it was back to full! Then I realized that I have (as most do) a .964" slope in 18 feet. I turned the car around (hood up slope)and checked it again today and surprise, oil level back to between "s" and "a". Thanks and I'm sorry to all who helped; the number of posts indicates the level of help and concern available on this BB.
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Special thanks and apologies to Steve from Indy, you hit it dead on! I just never thought that slight of a slope would make such a difference (1 quart). BTW, my in-laws live in Atlanta, IN and I'm up there often. Have played Crooked Stick, Wolf Run, Hanging Tree, Bear Slide, Golf Club of Indiana and others, and most recently Purgatory at 7,750 yds. Great golf and Fletchers of Atlanta is some great eating! Thanks again to the Viper Nation.
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