Careful when changing your coolant!

[red98GTS]

IF you decide to change your own coolant be aware that you can damage your radiator by trying to remove the 1/4" allen plug at the bottom.....as I found out, this thing may be so tight that really cranking it hard can actually twist the metal around the radiator plug itself and destroy the radiator. I didn't, but my Viper tech said it's possible to do. I have no idea why they would put this thing in and make it this hard to remove. Anyway, FORGET that plug and don't even try to remove it if it hasn't already been out and just remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator. You can do it with a pair of band-clamp pliers or regular channel locks if you want. I know this was mentioned a short time ago, but I thought this might save somebody a radiator replacement. pete the ex glass guy

 

[Vic]

Thanks, Pete!

I didn't see the original posts, so I'm glad you mentioned it.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Quite true Pete. I noticed a bit of flex on mine the first time I took it off. It's painted over so breaking the paint seal might help. In addition, you must keep the allen key dead straight while twisting. After removal, replace with antiseize coating and it'll be fine thereafter.</FONT f>

 

[Bad_Byte]

It's even more difficult to remove the two block plugs. They are soft aluminum and not of a standard size like 1/4" or 3/8" instead they are 5/16". In short NOTHING fits them. I was able to grind down a large piece of square stock (would be great if one existed) and used a 12pt socket to turn it. I actually stripped one out and ended up drilling and using an easyout to remove it.

Moral of the story is - cycle your fluids regularly to avoid frozen nuts!

 

[Tomer]

Band Clamps, are these the same style as the clamps on the stock intake corregated hoses?? I was stumped by these band clamps, then used channel locks to loosen the clamps and wiggle the tubes off...

Tomer

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">As I remember, I ground down a 3/8" to 1/2" socket adaptor to fit the block plugs. Worked perfectly with no risk of stripping. It's actually a plumbing fitting.

Don't forget to release the trapped air in the thermostat housing. There is also a bleed plug there.</FONT f>

 

[GTS Dean]

Many times, the secret is to try to tighten the plug just a tad more before attempting to unscrew it. I have a set of 3/8" drive allen wrenches. Gently bumping the ratchet one way, then the other, with the palm of my hand until the plug breaks friction gives me no problems.

I have not attempted the block plugs, but you can buy 8 point square drive sockets for them if they are the male style and I would opt for the expense vs the chance of stripping them.

 

[red98GTS]

Block plugs? Forget it! Ha! Once I saw how tight that radiator "drain plug" was, I didn't even want to know about the block plugs. For those who want to do this drain job at home, you will need to jack the front end up or run it up on some wood ramps that you've made (you HAVE made some, haven't you???) and allow some room to get to the lower radiator clamp. Regular pliers won't do it...you need something big to grab that clamp. PS&gt; I had to "burp" the car many times to get all the air out, and be careful when you first start it up after refilling! The trapped air can make the temp SOAR! pete the (ex) glass guy and now radiator guy

 

[Jack B]

Forget the block plugs. Put in a $5 flush kit at the heater hose. Drain at the radiator, open the surge tank cap, put the heater control on high and then flush the system till the water turns clear. Button everything up and add the required amount of antifreeze. Use between 5 - 8 quarts of antifreeze. At five quarts the car will cool somewhat better. Once the antifreeze is added, fill/burp and fill/burp. Don't forget the water wetter.