I would like to share some shortcuts that I use to simplify the oil changing procedure.
Tools needed
a. Hydraulic floor jack and jack stand - Northern Tool has a low profile jack that does a good job of lifting the Viper for any undercarraige work. At $140, it is a steal and a must for any Viper owner.
b. Cup type filter wrench - This type of wrench is turned with a 3/8" ratchet. The wrench is sized to fit a specific filter (it fits over the end of the filter). The filter on the Viper is physically a Fram PH15.
c. 3/8" swivel-head ratchet.
d. Pan to catch oil from drain plug and filter - Any good auto parts store should have a oil drain pan. The one I have has a 24" diameter and is 5" in height. It actually has a drain hole in the top and pouring snout on the side for disposal. I save one/two gallon plastic bottles (detergent/bleach) to dispose of the oil.
e. 10" Flat File and small hammer - I remove the file from the wooden handle and use the sharp (handle side) point to puncture a hole in the oil filter to drain the oil out prior to removing the filter.
d. Two filter magnets - these attach to the filter and trap iron particles flowing thru the filter. They are reusable. They can be purchased from Gratiot's.
The Oil Change.
1. Jack up the drivers side approximately 10-12" and put jack stand towards the front of engine and on the drivers side. This pools the oil on the passenger side where the drain plug is located.
2. Drain oil into pan and clean the magnet on the drain plug. Replace the drain plug.
3. Use the cup type filter wrench/3/8" ratchet and turn the filter one complete turn (360 degrees)
4. Puncture a hole in the lowest part of the filter with the pointed side of the 10" flat file. Turn the filter so that the puncture hole is at six-o-clock on the spin axis. Let the oil drain for a couple of minutes.
Most of the oil will drip straight down into the pan. Wrap a shop rag around the rear lower suspension arm. This will stop the oil from dripping down the arm. If done carefully, you won't get a drop on the ground.
5. After the oil stops dripping remove the filter and replace with the new filter. Place a thin film of grease on the gasket. This will aid in removing the filter the next time. Hand tighten the filter, then turn approximately one full turn with the wrench. Apply the two magnets on the exterior of the filter.
6. Place the two quart funnel in the passenger side valve cover breather opening. The large funnel will be supported by the valve cover and blower assembly. Fill with ten quarts of synthetic oil (good choices; Mobil 1, Redline or Royal Purple)
7. Start the car and immediately turn off engine. Repeat this same sequence several times till you build up partial oil pressure. Now let car run for a couple of minutes and check for oil leaks. Shut off engine wait approximately five minutes and check the oil level. Depending on how much oil was removed and replaced it is quite likely that may have to add as much as a another full quart.
I realize that there is more than one way to accomplish this task and I don't want to infer that this is the only way. Hopefully this will help someone one hasn't changed their oil by themselves. If anyone has any additional tips please post them.
Tools needed
a. Hydraulic floor jack and jack stand - Northern Tool has a low profile jack that does a good job of lifting the Viper for any undercarraige work. At $140, it is a steal and a must for any Viper owner.
b. Cup type filter wrench - This type of wrench is turned with a 3/8" ratchet. The wrench is sized to fit a specific filter (it fits over the end of the filter). The filter on the Viper is physically a Fram PH15.
c. 3/8" swivel-head ratchet.
d. Pan to catch oil from drain plug and filter - Any good auto parts store should have a oil drain pan. The one I have has a 24" diameter and is 5" in height. It actually has a drain hole in the top and pouring snout on the side for disposal. I save one/two gallon plastic bottles (detergent/bleach) to dispose of the oil.
e. 10" Flat File and small hammer - I remove the file from the wooden handle and use the sharp (handle side) point to puncture a hole in the oil filter to drain the oil out prior to removing the filter.
d. Two filter magnets - these attach to the filter and trap iron particles flowing thru the filter. They are reusable. They can be purchased from Gratiot's.
The Oil Change.
1. Jack up the drivers side approximately 10-12" and put jack stand towards the front of engine and on the drivers side. This pools the oil on the passenger side where the drain plug is located.
2. Drain oil into pan and clean the magnet on the drain plug. Replace the drain plug.
3. Use the cup type filter wrench/3/8" ratchet and turn the filter one complete turn (360 degrees)
4. Puncture a hole in the lowest part of the filter with the pointed side of the 10" flat file. Turn the filter so that the puncture hole is at six-o-clock on the spin axis. Let the oil drain for a couple of minutes.
Most of the oil will drip straight down into the pan. Wrap a shop rag around the rear lower suspension arm. This will stop the oil from dripping down the arm. If done carefully, you won't get a drop on the ground.
5. After the oil stops dripping remove the filter and replace with the new filter. Place a thin film of grease on the gasket. This will aid in removing the filter the next time. Hand tighten the filter, then turn approximately one full turn with the wrench. Apply the two magnets on the exterior of the filter.
6. Place the two quart funnel in the passenger side valve cover breather opening. The large funnel will be supported by the valve cover and blower assembly. Fill with ten quarts of synthetic oil (good choices; Mobil 1, Redline or Royal Purple)
7. Start the car and immediately turn off engine. Repeat this same sequence several times till you build up partial oil pressure. Now let car run for a couple of minutes and check for oil leaks. Shut off engine wait approximately five minutes and check the oil level. Depending on how much oil was removed and replaced it is quite likely that may have to add as much as a another full quart.
I realize that there is more than one way to accomplish this task and I don't want to infer that this is the only way. Hopefully this will help someone one hasn't changed their oil by themselves. If anyone has any additional tips please post them.
