Clutch Pedal Makes Contact With The Bracket

[viper96rt10]

I have a 1996 Viper RT/10. The clutch pedal makes contact with the bracket (Pedal Box). I was wondering if this is common and if the pedal able to be move along the bar holding the pedal. It needs to move to the right about 1/4 of an inch or 1/2 inch to the left. There is some play left to right in the pedal so it might need some tightening.

Dealership wants $700-$1500 since they want to replace the pedal box and the clutch pedal.

Any suggestions would be great.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

There are plastic bushings that the pedal swivels on, as well as a plastic bushing that the hydraulic clutch rod attached to the pedeal with. In the members section are the parts manuals with pictures. Take a look at replacing them (a few dollars worth of parts and a few curse words working under the dash) and see if that doesn't fix it.

 

[Glen97]

I had a 96 RT/10 just like yours before I got my GTS and had some issues with the pedal also. Its kind of a pain but I removed the pedal bracket and repaired my self and had no issues after. It was several years ago but if I remember correct it has 4 bolts to remove the pedals. There is a snape ring at the end of the shaft the pedals pivot on. Remove the snape ring and the shaft will slide out and you can replace bushings or whatever it needs. My issue was the holes in the bracket the pedal shaft fit in became egg shape and didnt let the clutch engage all the way when pushed in so I removed the shaft welded the holes on the pedal bracket and redrilled the holes for the pedal shaft and it worked find. Remove the drivers seat for a little more room. I had 75,000 miles on my RT/10 when I fixed the pedals sold it a few years after when I got my GTS with 88,000 miles on it. I'm sure you can fix it.

 

[viper96rt10]

The parts manual helped out a lot. I think I have it adjusted.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Username]

I think I have it adjusted.

I highly doubt that.. it's not adjustable. Bite the bullet and do it right. Once the bushings go, it doesn't take long for the pedal and shaft to get ovaled.

Remove seat.
Remove knee bolster under steering wheel.
Lay upside-down under the dash with flashlight.
Pull relay base off box.
Pull brake switch harness ties out of box.
Remove brake switch.
Pull plastic pin out of clutch MC area in box.
Remove clutch rod end from pedal and disconnect switch connector.
Open hood.
Remove 10mm bolt from external side of box.
Turn cluch cylinder approx 90 deg counter clockwise.
Go back under dash and remove brake rod clip and end.
Remove two upper bolts holding box to inner dash.
Remove four lower nuts holding box to firewall.
Wiggle out box whilst cursing and scraping knuckles.
Rebuild.. 4 bushings total...beg around here for bronze ones, plenty of Lithium grease.
Re-install.

You will not have fun.

 

[ACELLR8]

I highly doubt that.. it's not adjustable. Bite the bullet and do it right. Once the bushings go, it doesn't take long for the pedal and shaft to get ovaled.

Remove seat.
Remove knee bolster under steering wheel.
Lay upside-down under the dash with flashlight.
Pull relay base off box.
Pull brake switch harness ties out of box.
Remove brake switch.
Pull plastic pin out of clutch MC area in box.
Remove clutch rod end from pedal and disconnect switch connector.
Open hood.
Remove 10mm bolt from external side of box.
Turn cluch cylinder approx 90 deg counter clockwise.
Go back under dash and remove brake rod clip and end.
Remove two upper bolts holding box to inner dash.
Remove four lower nuts holding box to firewall.
Wiggle out box whilst cursing and scraping knuckles.
Rebuild.. 4 bushings total...beg around here for bronze ones, plenty of Lithium grease.
Re-install.

You will not have fun.

Great plan of attack on doing this. Just followed your steps and had it out in about 2 hours. Seems kind of long Yes definitely a pain in the rear.

Now the million dollar question, where do I get these garbage bushings from or better yet even some bronze ones.

Thanks for the pointers!