Clutch Suggestions
- Thread starter fe4snake
- Start date
Spec 3+, or if money isnt an issue, Mcleod Twin Disc/RSI Carbon Twin
coupe
Viper Owner
I put a 3+ on a turbo '99 that made 750ftlbs. Noticed a little shake/chatter when it was new. After 500-600 miles, it was not noticable at all. Drove great.
oem is about 200 bucks on ebay. i like having that as a weak link. but this OEM clutch holds ~850rwtq perfectly IMO, drives like stock (obviously)
but im sure if i tracked it, id roast it. but thats not gonna happen with my car. strictly mexico highway pulls for me.
but im sure if i tracked it, id roast it. but thats not gonna happen with my car. strictly mexico highway pulls for me.
Well the build that I'm doing is for a little of everything, but mainly the standing 1 mile top speed run with the occassional 1/4 mile run.
During my tare down of the engine (with only 12k miles) the OEM clutch was fried. The rivets were flush with the clutch lining and some of them were actually shiny. The pressure plate was scortched in some areas and the flywheel was no better. Yet I was supprised to see that, because the clutch never grinded or slipped during the one mile run last November.
Nevertheless, this new motor will have more power n/a plus a 200 shot of NO2. I'm just concerned that when I hit the switch and shift gears that the factory clutch will wear out prematurely.
I have been looking at the Spec 3+ but I was curious about the driveability of it. Basically this is just a weekend car for me if that. I've had it since new and I'm always upgrading something to it which lives me with alot of down time.
Did you used the OEM flywheel or other?
The Spec 3+ driveability is about a 4/10 before it breaks in, then it gets to a 7/10 or so, if you consider the OEM a 10. It will however hold the power you want to at a reasonable price. If you want to get any better than that, the price goes up exponentially. Multi-Disc clutches are not just used because of their holding power, they are used because they tend to be lighter and smoother engaging than their single disc counterparts... and are rebuildable. You don't just toss them when they wear out.
An OEM LUK pressure plate with a 6 puck disk will meet your hp requirements and will be your most cost effective route.
Red Snake do you have a part number for that disk or any specifications?
coupe
Viper Owner
Well... I'm almost embarassed to say it was a stock, unmachined flywheel. I took off the stock clutch, scuffed up the flywheel surface with scotchbrite, and installed the SPEC 3+. I am positive that this is the reason it had a little chatter/shake for the first few hundred miles...as the flywheel surface was a little uneven. But the good thing about the 3+ is it is semi-metallic and actually wears it's way in (breaks in) to most surfaces, even if not perfect. Drove very nicely when broken in.fe4snake said:
In hindsight though, I would do an aluminum flywheel. They don't really hinder drivability with the torque of the V10 and they really seem to shine in the upper RPM range, even on stock engines.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
I was going to install the 6 puk, but decided on giving the Centerforce a try. I will sell the 6 puk I have for $290. Let me know if interested.
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
Mike,
why did you go centerforce over that 6puck?
I was thinking of the centerforce too, but I have a brand new Luk sitting here. Maybe I'll buy that 6puck and try it out. Is it sprung or unsprung?
why did you go centerforce over that 6puck?
I was thinking of the centerforce too, but I have a brand new Luk sitting here. Maybe I'll buy that 6puck and try it out. Is it sprung or unsprung?
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
The 6 puk is a great clutch, but it tears stuff up. It will wear into the flywheel, but will hold some serious power. I went with the Centerforce because I had heard good things and wanted to give it a try. Both setups use the LUK pressure plate, so it's all about the disk.
I just put in a new SPEC 3+ , new aluminum flywheel also from SPEC and I really do like it alot. It has a great pedal feel and very responsive.
white out
Enthusiast
Not Spec.
Tilton perhaps.
Nick
Tilton perhaps.
Nick
My car has the 2nd or third stocker with an aluminium flywheel. It was drag raced quite a bit. I have 50,000 miles on my car. I just bought a carbon fiber clutch from JonB and bought a new ($40) friction plate from ebay for my Fidenza flywheel. Jon said the clutch was rated for 750rwhp. Since the stocker worked quite well for about 15K that's OK unless you run slicks or DRs. I installed Unitrax Titanium rear axles from JonB last year and that's why I bought the stiffer clutch.
As far as button clutches go they are a cheap alternative and HD. But they do have a tendency to chatter and really **** in traffic.
My Paxton sc'd ACR has a stock clutch in it and it works OK because of the lesser toque. It has Unitrax 800hp rear axles.
Ted
As far as button clutches go they are a cheap alternative and HD. But they do have a tendency to chatter and really **** in traffic.
My Paxton sc'd ACR has a stock clutch in it and it works OK because of the lesser toque. It has Unitrax 800hp rear axles.
Ted
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Good Gawd. Somebody's riding the clutch or spending every weekend at the dragstrip. There is no way a stock clutch should be gone in 12K miles.
Now you are talking HUGE dollars. A street-configured Heavyweight Tilton starts at about 4K for Twin Metallic and runs to about 8K for a Quad Carbon.
Not riding it, just racing it. I dont spend my time cruising it, I don't think that was the intention of having a street legal race car. Why do you think the motor is being re-built, (hone/bore cylinders, align hone the block with new billet mains, H-beam rods, Clevite coated bearings, the list goes on). That is why I need a new clutch/flywheel.
white out
Enthusiast
Just saying that it's a good clutch.
FYI, a spec stage II failed after ~20 passes at 340awhp in my white STi. The stock clutch survived over 80 passes, 5+ auto-x, cross country rally at 380awhp in my blue STi.
Nick
