Cooling system upgrade, your advise?

[snampro]

Car is a ’94 RT/10 with stock engine. Intake manifold was replaced under warrantee by previous owner after a crack formed (about 1.5 years ago, 10,000 miles).

Doing some research before upgrading my cooling system. The project consists of a new water pump, new thermostat, all new heater hoses, and the 5-piece silicone hose set from Roe. The goal is to increase reliability.

Thermostat: it looks like it is possible to remove the thermostat housing, and thus replace the thermostat, without removing the intake manifold. However, since I don’t have small hands or arms and have already bought the intake gaskets just in case I can't get the thermostat in.

I saw in the illustrated upgrades section that it was recommended to drill a 3/32 hole in the new thermostat to aid bleeding, is this really a good idea?

Intake Manifold: is the quick disconnect fuel line on the back of the intake manifold that same as the ones on the fuel filter? If so I’ve done that before, so it should be easy.


Gaskets: I ordered a set of intake manifold, thermostat and thermo crossover gaskets from Tator. Do I need to soak the gasket in water or anything like that before installing? I saw in this post (-->LINK<--) that guys are using liquid gasket “glues” when installing the gaskets, is this recommended? For the thermostat gasket, thermostat crossover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets or all?

Coolant change procedure: I found this for the GenII’s (-->LINK<--) is there anything similar for the GenI’s?

Bolts: Should I use any locktite or anything like that when installing the manifold and thermostat bolts? I would assume not, but worth asking.

any other tips?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Increase your cooling system capabilty by going to 100% water plus an anti-rust/anti-corrosion/water pump seal protectant additive capable of 5 year/150,000 mile service. Glycol, which provides the freeze protection, is only half as efficient at picking up heat energy from the engine and transferring it to the radiator. If you currently have a 50-50 mix with anti-freeze, you'll get a 25% improvement. Just make sure it doesn't fall below freezing temperatures, since that's what the glycol is there for.

http://www.liquidcosworth.com/coolant/default.asp

(Feels different to be a site supporter and sell stuff...)

 

[PhoenixGTS]

The intake manifold is so easy to remove and replace don't even bother trying to do the thermostat with it on. When I changed my thermostat the rear bolt on the housing was corroded and broke off so I needed the manifold off and out of the way to drill and tap the hole. I took advantage of having the manifold off to paint it (and the valve covers) also, but I highly suggest replacing all 20 injector o-rings if you remove the injectors. Plus, if you are doing the water pump having the throttle bodies/manifold out of the way makes it easier to work on the front of the engine (and is pretty much required if you remove/replace the radiator). All the work you want to do is pretty straight forward - even taking the hood off is easy since it aligns itself when you re-install it.

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P.S. Get a service manual. They are less than $100 and you can order online off the Mopar site. Only took three days for mine to arrive.

 

[snampro]

Tom: I bought a sacrificial anode radiator cap to prevent corrotion, would installing that still be useful if I used your approach to coolant?

Phoenix: Thanks for the input, I saw your posts about the broken bolt when I was searching through the forum. I don't plan on removing the injectors because they are fairly new. I'll just leave them in the manifold. I don't plan to change the radiator right now, I'll do that in the future. Hood removal is pretty easy, huh? That will make everything much simpler. I have a service manual, I wouldn't think of digging into this thing without it.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Sacrificial anodes are just another surface any coolant product will try to protect. While it may "focus" the corrosion to one place, it does depletes the additive package anti-corrosion protection capability.

 

[Doug]

I just finish doing this. I had no problems and didnt even remove the intake. Just take your time. you will have to split the housing to get it out. as faras bleeding the system i bought the roe 5 pc hose set with the bleeder valve, it worked great.

 

[PhoenixGTS]

I don't plan on removing the injectors because they are fairly new. I'll just leave them in the manifold.

Only an issue if you were thinking of painting/powder-coating your intake while you had it off in which case you would have to remove the injectors.

Hood removal is pretty easy, huh?

Absolutely have no fear of taking the hood off. As long as you have at least one helper it is as easy as removing four nuts (one Viper Tuner even told me he can remove a Gen II hood all by himself with no helper!).

 

[snampro]

I just finish doing this. I had no problems and didnt even remove the intake. Just take your time. you will have to split the housing to get it out. as faras bleeding the system i bought the roe 5 pc hose set with the bleeder valve, it worked great.

those are the hoses I bought. was bleeding the system as easy as starting the car and letting the air out of that bleeder valve until there isn't anymore and making sure the tanks are full?

 

[Doug]

Yep. just watch your temp. you may have to do it a couple of times to get all the air out.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

The Viper is designed to run in the 190 range. Why would you want to change it?

 

[snampro]

The Viper is designed to run in the 190 range. Why would you want to change it?

I'm changing the thermostat because I dug through the records from the previous owner and can't find anything mentioning it has ever been changed. The hoses and water pump were changed in 2002 when the engine was rebuilt. I'm changing the hoses because they look like crap and have the old style hose clamps on them, plus the roe hoses are easier to bleed. I may wait on the water pump since I know for a fact its less than 4 years old.

I did order a 180 degree thermostat (although I hadn't mentioned it in this post) because it seemed like a common thing to do and I don't see how 10 degrees is going to hurt anything. I understand the mechanics of an engine and needing to maintain a temperature. is using a 180 thermostat really a problem?

basically I have to change the coolant and I figured I'd do some upgrades and maintenance while I'm in there.

 

[ViperRay]

I think I'll get a bottle of your coolant additive for the coming race season Tom.
Is there a promotional code I should know about?

 

[Doug]

The guys at roe suggested the 172 thermostat. so thats what i put back in. The original one was a 195

 

[snampro]

any one have any comments about putting the liquid gasket stuff on the gaskets when installing them?

 

[99 R/T 10]

PM sent.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Source code: SCCA members, please check your member benefits info on the SCCA website.