Crower roller rockers are touching baffle in valve cover

[PhoenixGTS]

I took my intake manifold and valve covers off today so that I can take them to the powder coater tomorrow (yep they are open on labor day) and noticed that the adjustment locking nuts on the Crower roller rockers (I had no idea what rockers were on the car until I took off the first cover, but Crower was nice and put their name on them) at some time toched the steel baffle that is inside the valve cover. I have some questions:

1) anyone else seen this or heard of clearance problems with certain rocker arms? Since I think it is the adjustment nuts, it looks like it is a continuous rather than sporadic or one time issue.

2) do the rockers get oiled by oil squirting out of the pushrods like other engines?

3) what exactly is the baffle for? It takes up a good inch or more of headroom in the valve cover. You would think they would have just made the valve cover shorter. Or does the oil get so hot it would hurt the coating on the covers, or add aditional heat to the engine compartment if it was allowed to squirt on the inside of the cover?

4) If I need to keep the baffles so that the squirting oil is deflected down onto the valve train, can I drill half or three-quarter inch holes in the baffle right where the interference is? Or will that ruin whatever effect the baffle has?

 

[Gavin]

You need the baffles to prevent the car puking oil into the intake under braking - those of us that track our cars have discovered these baffles are not enough to prevent the puking period.

The baffles will eventually crack (mine did) will leave the solution to others as I removed the baffles, installed a puike collector with drain back into the oil pan - end of issue.

MORE IMPORTANTLY - YOU NEED TO HAVE THOSE ROLLER ROCKERS CHECKED ABOUT EVERY 5,000 MILES- they have a habit of working loose. All you need is for the tip of the rocker to move off the valve stem, hit the spring - retaining clips will pop out and the valve will merge very nicely into the top of a piston. Goodby motor!!!

I was cruising along at about 45 mph when I heard a ticking - not unlike a lifter going bad, execept the motor was hot - I shut the motor off immediately, cruised to a stop - and called triple A - had the car towed to my Viper Tech - bingo - roller was off the valve stem - quick action saved the motor in my case.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Does that go for the T&D's also? Check every 5000 miles?

 

[HSSSTOY]

....When you change factory rollers, you need to shave the screw holes knobs were the the baffles are mounted by 1/4 ", to create the extra height needed by the roller rockers.

 

[Jack B]

I know some will not like this, however, there is an easier way. The T&D's only hit by 1/8". Mount the valve covers with four screws. Leave about 3/16" of the screw protruding, in affect the covers are loose and the screws are merely a guide.

Start up the car and let it idle for 15-20 seconds. You will now see the marks made by the rockers. Take a flat punch and gently adjust/deform each of the marks down. The baffle material is thin gauge and can almost be deformed with the hand. If the interference is more than 1/8" the thread boss will have to be shaved as was already indicated.

 

[PhoenixGTS]

I know some will not like this, however, there is an easier way. The T&D's only hit by 1/8". Mount the valve covers with four screws. Leave about 3/16" of the screw protruding, in affect the covers are loose and the screws are merely a guide.

Shortening the screw holes sounds like a really clean idea, but I already took the covers for powder coating and am not sure I have the equipment or ability to to a good job. Since my baffles already have the marks on them, my plan is to go the dimple route and punch a deformity in each offending location (little semi-circle about 3/8" to 1/2" long. I'm still amazed that the screws that hold the baffles on are sheet metal screws that just kind of hack their way into the valve covers. None of them were loose though.