DIY - ROE Supercharger Install 1999 GTS ACR

[DanB]

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Find battery first. If you were looking under the hood please stop what you are doing.

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2. Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor electrical connector from air cleaner. Remove throttle body hoses and air cleaner assembly.
This step was done previously when I was taking apart car for other work. Pics for reference.

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3. Disconnect throttle cable and move to the side.

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4. Disconnect PCV and canister purge hose harness bundle located between throttle bodies.
I was unsure if it was just the shorter ones between the throttle bodies or both the shorter ones and the longer ones running from valve cover to valve cover. I took off long and short ones.

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5. Disconnect throttle position sensor wiring connector from left throttle body.

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6. Remove brake booster hose from air intake plenum.

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7. Disconnect idle air control motor (IAC) electrical and hose connection.
I previously had removed hose.

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8. Remove the windshield cowl cover. Lift plastic cover at wiper arm base to reveal nut.
I found just pulling up on it didn't work. I stuck a small pick near the pivot area and tha helped to open up the cover and enable it to be pulled up.
While removing mine I found my passenger plastic cover was cracked. If anyone has an extra let me know. I believe it only comes when you buy the arm for $150.

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[Tail lights]

Great write up thanks I'm looking forward to the rest of it

 

[DanB]

9. Disconnect the two electrical connections at the ignition coils. These are at the lower rear side of the coils. See picture #1.
Kind of tricky reaching them. I used a pick to unlock the red tabs. You may want to remove some coils wires for access.

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10. Disconnect the two electrical connectors at the left rear of the manifold. Slide the red lock out of the way before attempting to disconnect.

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11. Remove all of the intake manifold bolts.
A socket or Torx bit will work. A magnet is useful for the ones that you drop in the center.

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12. Perform fuel system pressure release and fuel rail purge procedure. Remove the fuel rail test port cap and depress the Schrader valve. Use caution, as the fuel will be under pressure. Disconnect the fuel hose at the quick connect located behind the drivers side rear corner of the engine. Use an open-end wrench to push in on the the plastic ring on the fitting if it will not release by hand. Gently pull the fitting from the fuel rail. WRAP A SHOP TOWEL AROUND HOSE TO CATCH ANY GASOLINE SPILLAGE. Cover the end of the hose. Loosen the fuel tank cap and leave loose while this line is disconnected (as gasoline warms, it expands and will run out of the hose if the cap is allowed to hold pressure).

I was able to do it by hand by removing it like you would release an air tool from an air hose. I previously had the car sit for a period of time and removed gas cap prior to removing fuel line. There was no pressure build up as the car was sitting for a few days.

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12. Lift the front of the intake manifold and pull forward to remove. Watch the wires and fuel line when lifting.

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[eabrillon1978]

About time!!! Awesome writeup!!

 

[DanB]

Thanks. I'm still waiting for a few parts to come back from ROE. Mike at ROE Racing has been extremely helpful with the repairs to the UPS damaged items. The bill was reasonable as well. Looking forward to finishing the install.

 

[DanB]

13. Remove old gasket material from the cylinder heads, clean the surface thoroughly and cover.

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14. If using the stock throttle bodies with the supercharger, remove the throttle bodies from the manifold and remove the linkage between them.

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15. Remove the idle air control (IAC) motor from the manifold (right front corner).

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16. Remove the fuel pressure test port fitting from the manifold (right rear upper side)
There is residual fuel in the line. At least in mine there was. It's ok. I fixed by having it dump out all over the garage floor. Govern yourself accordingly. Also don't use an open end wrench. Use a socket. Mine was tight and was starting to strip. Ok it was a cheaper open end wrench. I wasn't driving to work to get a good one. A deep socket worked fine.

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17. Remove the manifold air pressure sensor from the manifold (left rear corner).

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18. Disconnect and remove the fuel injector wiring harness from the manifold.

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19. At the base of the windshield there is a metal plate. It is bolted (one or two bolts and sometimes a Philips head screw) and sometimes glued to the base of the windshield frame. Remove this plate. It may have to be pried off it is was glued. The plate will not be reused.

Mine was held in by 2 bolts and a little bit of adhesive. Once the bolts were loosened a little force and some rocking it side to side and it came right off. I put the 2 bolts back in. I also relocated the end of the ground strap.

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[speedracervr4]

I was wondering where that metal plate went!! Thanks for posting.

 

[DanB]

20. Open box #1. Manifold Base. Remove the components, but do not open bags until directed.
My kit was used. It was packaged and labelled differently but it was all clearly marked and labelled.

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21. Install the eight (8) injector rail studs (in a bag with the injector rail stands, nuts, and washers) into the outermost threaded holes on the manifold base. In the bag are two 1/4" jam nuts. Thread each of these onto a single stud end and lock together with two wrenches. Put a wrench on the top nut and tighten the stud into the base. You may use Loctite #271 if available at the threads in the base. See picture #2. *This step can be done between step #37 and #38 if desired (it's easier to put them in now, but you have to lift the supercharger over them later).

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22. In the bag with the 45 degree brass fitting there is a 1/2" thick aluminum spacer. Go to the engine and locate the forward mounting bolt for the coil pack in the valley of the engine. Remove the bolt and install this spacer under the bracket, which will tilt the coil pack rearward. Tighten the bolt. See picture #3.

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23. Locate the crankcase vent fitting in the valley near the thermostat housing. Remove the rubber hose from it. The fitting size will be either 3/8" or 1/2". Install the appropriate size plastic cap from the small bag in box #1. Please note that the plastic 3/8" fitting is not very secure in the grommet and can slip down into the engine. Silicone can be used to secure it in place. Use a small tie-wrap at the base of the cap to secure it in place on the fitting. See picture#3.

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24. If you are installing the supercharger on a 1998 or newer Viper, you will need to install the enclosed 45-degree adapter in the thermostat outlet fitting. Drain the coolant level down by siphoning out the coolant in the reservoir or carefully removing the radiator drain. This is an excellent time to change the thermostat to a 180 degree unit. Remove the 5/8" hose and fitting that point toward the right front wheel from the thermostat housing. Install the 45-degree fitting into the housing, adjusting it so that it ends up pointing forward (slightly up or down is acceptable) Install the original straight fitting into the new fitting and reinstall the hose ( a new clamp) is enclosed. TIP; The hose fits best on the new fitting if you rotate the hose 180 degrees (loosen the clamp on the other end and turn the hose) and cut about 3/4" to 1" off the thermostat housing end. Pipe sealant may be applied to all of these threads. See picture #3.

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Picture Instructions.

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[eabrillon1978]

Very clean install!!

 

[Speed SG]

Great Instructions! I'm hoping to source a roe supercharger and tackle the install myself as well.

 

[speedracervr4]

Looks like your lower manifold has already been ported, that should help it flow better.

 

[IEATVETS]

Great writeup, about time somebody did this but I will bet that the mods will move this thread to the DIY section where it belongs.

 

[DanB]

25. Place the new intake manifold gaskets onto the cylinder heads and push the white plastic tabs in to hold them in place. Set the new intake manifold base onto the engine, lining up the mounting holes. Check for interference at the drivers side of the thermostat housing. The parts can be very close together(paper thickness) but the thermostat housing cannot be holding the manifold up. File the corner of the manifold and the housing if they are making contact. See picture #4.

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26. Install the manifold onto the engine. Screw in the enclosed socket head bolts with washers. The shorter ones go in the upper holes. Once all the bolts are in, finger tighten, then torque them in the following manner. See picture #5.
-Start at the middle cylinder on either side. Finger tighten the upper and lower bolt at that cylinder, then do the same on the opposite bank middle cylinder.
-Now perform the same task on the cylinder in front of the one you just did. Go to the opposite bank and tighten the next forward cylinder there also. Then tighten the bolts on the next rear cylinder.
- Continue this clockwise or counterclockwise rotation, out from the center, until all the bolts are done. This pulls the manifold down evenly.
-Starting from the center cylinder and rotating in a circular direction out again, torque each bolt to 10 ft-lbs.

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27. Remove the engine serpentine belt. To loosen the belt, put a wrench or socket on bolt in the middle of the tensioner pulley and rotate clockwise. Remove the smooth idler pully (between the alternator and the power steering pump). There is a washer under the idler pulley that will fall out if you are not aware of it. Leave the tensioner pulley and assembly in place.

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28. Now you must torque and pin the crankshaft hub assembly. The supercharger you have is a low drag unit (the supercharger pulley does not require a keyway and the pulley bolt is torqued to 60 ft-lbs). However, the factory crankshaft hub can slip if it was installed properly to begin with or if the bolt loosens. The factory torque is 250 ft-lbs. and it's not uncommon for them to be loose. You can get to the bolt by using a short socket, placing a torque wrench between the pulleys and cross member on the drivers side. Loctite Red #271 should be used. See instructions enclosed in Crankshaft Pin Tool Kit Box.

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I rested the socket and breaker bar on the drivers side rail. I bumped the engine over to break the bolt loose. I removed the fuel pump relay and fuse located beside the amp in the rear of the car.

 

[DanB]

29. Remove the top three bolts from the water pump.

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30. Open box #2, Drive Support. Locate the large support/idler mounting plate "A" and the hardware bag. Remove the three long 3/8" bolts, three of the 3/8" washers and the three aluminum stands.

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31. Install support plate "A" on the engine at the upper water pump bolts. The washers are to be placed under the bolt heads, between the head and the plate. The 1/2" long aluminum stands go between the support plate and water pump, spacing the plate forward. Finger tighten the three mounting bolts and snug the middle one only. Some coolant may leak out between the pump and block if all three are left loose. Do not torque the bolts at this time. See picture #6.

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[eabrillon1978]

Looks like your lower manifold has already been ported, that should help it flow better.

Greg Good ported this manifold and did a terrific job on it. You can see the difference the untouched intake pics on the instuctions vs the pics posted. Greg opened it up a great deal!

 

[speedracervr4]

Yea I have mine off right now and my local porter is going to do mine shortly.

 

[DanB]

I didn't even notice that until you compare the pics. That is quite the difference. I'll have to thank the person I bought the ROE kit from!

I've got a shipment coming from ROE that just shipped out a couple days ago. Until then back to installing what I can.

Thanks Eugene for the kit!

 

[eabrillon1978]

I didn't even notice that until you compare the pics. That is quite the difference. I'll have to thank the person I bought the ROE kit from!

I've got a shipment coming from ROE that just shipped out a couple days ago. Until then back to installing what I can.

Thanks Eugene for the kit!

Your more than welcome Dan!!

Glad it's coming along nicely for you...

If you haven't mounted the supercharger yet, take a look into your intake ports, I had greg port my heads to that intake to match as you can see from the pics below it was a smooth transition in all cylinders. When tuned correctly, that Roe will give you plenty of power, but just something to think about if you have the itch for more.


Here's a view of how it looked

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[DanB]

32. Open box #3, Supercharger Top Plate. Remove the components from the box. Remove the wrap covering the vent on the supercharger drive (the unit has been pre-filled with oil). Keep the assembly clean. The clearance between the rotors inside is tight and dirt will damage the unit.

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33. Using the enclosed silicone, put a thin bead all the way around the inboard edge of the recess milled into the manifold base and continue it onto the top of the ends. This creates the seal for the manifold to top plate, which needs to hold vacuum and boost. See picture #5.

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34. In the top plate mounting hardware bag, locate the four 2 inch threaded studs. Install them into the corners of the manifold base where the top plate assembly will sit by hand. This will help you guide the top plate assembly as you lower it into place without smearing the silicone bead. See picture #5.

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35. Lower the top plate assembly onto the manifold base. Install the mounting bolts and washers, but do not tighten them. Be sure to get the middle front and rear bolts in (there is a bolt under the inlet box at the back of the supercharger). Remove the studs and replace with bolts.

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36. There is a slight amount of side clearance for the top plate in the manifold base. (0.010") Position the top plate all the way to one side on the other to make it square with the manifold base.




37. Hand tighten each top plate mounting bolt, starting in the middle on one side, then the other side, working in a circular direction out from the middle as you did the manifold base. This pulls the plate down flat. Now torque all bolts to 10 ft.lbs. starting from the center.




38. In box #2, remove part "B", two short 3/8" bolts and two 3/8" washers. Loosen the middle bolt tightened at the water pump in step #31. Leave all three bolts snug, but not so tight that the plate cannot be moved side to side.

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39. Place part "B" up to plate "A" on the forward side and install the bolts with washers loosely. Adjust the location of plate "A" as necessary for the bolts to line up.

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40. Take part "C" out of box #2 and place on top of plate "B". Use the 1/4" socket head bolts and flat washers to attach the two parts. (do not tighten)

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41. Now that the drive support assembly is loosely installed in place, tighten the three water pump bolts to 30 ft.-lbs.

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42. Finger tighten the bolts holding part "B" to plate "A", just enough to eliminate any gap between the two parts, but no so much that it will not be drawn upward as part "C" is tightened. Now tighten the upper bolts at part "C" equally to approximately 10ft.-lbs. Check to ensure there is no gap between parts "A" and "B". Tighten the two 3/8" bolts for part "B" to approximately 23 ft.-lbs.

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43. Install the idler pulley and mount from box #2 onto the support/idler mount plate "A". The correct procedure is to put the thick black washer onto the 7/16" bolt, put the pulley onto the aluminum idler stand end that has the step, and then slide the bolt through the assembly from the pulley side (the thick black washer will be in contact with the pulley bearing). Place this assembly onto the drive support/idler mount plate and pass the bolt through the hole in the middle of the plate. Place the washer and lock nut on the backside of the plate. Torque to 60 ft.-lbs. See picture #6.

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44. Install the idler pulley (removed at step #27) back in its stock location. **Use a smaller idler if using 9+ PSI (2.6" or smaller) Supercharger pulley.**

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45. Locate the new serpentine belt from the installation box #4. Install the belt as per the factory original routing with one exception. Where the belt originally went from the alternator, under the idler and then over to the power steering pump, it will now go from the alternator, under the idler, up and over the supercharger pulley, down to the new idler and then to the power steering pulley. The factory routing diagram can be found on a decal in the engine compartment. Use a belt length of 2500mm for 5-8 psi (2.95" to 2.65" pulleys) and a 2470 mm belt with smaller (higher boost) supercharger pulleys. See picture #7.

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[DanB]

46. From Box #1, locate the eight fuel injector rail stands (aluminum tubes) and slide them onto the studs installed into the manifold base. See picture #2.

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47. Open box #5, which contains the fuel lines and fittings. Take the covered 3-foot long stainless steel braided Teflon fuel line and route it between the supercharger and the fuel rail stands on the drivers side. Make sure the ends are clean and connect it to the original fuel line fitting behind the engine. Some oil or silicone spray on the tube end will help the quick connect fitting slide on easier. Be sure to install it carefully so as not to damage the O-rings. Once installed, push and pull slightly to make sure it is locked on (check this again when there is fuel pressure).

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48. Clean the original fuel injector wiring harness by shaking it or blowing off with an air hose to make sure there is no loose dirt on it. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the terminals inside the injector connectors together (making a tighter connection on the fuel injectors). The use of electrical contact cleaner at all connections is recommended.

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It is strongly suggested you replace the factory injector connectors with the premium fuel injector connectors provided. The factory injector connectors are a poor design and cause problems when they lose contact with the injectors, which can happen quite often. To install them, cut off the original connectors, route the wire through the new connector, crimp on the terminal end and pull back into the connector (it will only go one way). There is no specific orientation for + and - at the connector.

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Lay the harness onto the engine with the large connectors back at the driver's side rear corner of the engine, routing the larger part of the injector looms next to the supercharger. See picture #2. The harness originally had small tags on it with the number for each cylinder (the Viper uses a sequential fuel injection system, so each one has to be connected to the proper cylinder, #1 is the drivers side front and #2 is the passenger's side front). If these tags have come off, use the overall length of the harness as a guide to which injector is for.

Attach the harness to the injectors, routing injector #2's wire between the valve cover and stand (this keeps the wire away from the bypass valve actuator). Connect the two connectors at the back of the coil pack. Connect the two large connectors at the rear corner on the driver's side. Check all connections.

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[DanB]

49. In the installation box #4, locate the bag with the 2 short 3" inside diameter silicone hoses and four large hose clamps. Open boxes 6 and 7. Slide one of the 3" hoses and two hose clamps on the curved end of each air intake tube.

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50. Open box #6, which contains the driver's side intake tube/fuel rail assembly. Place a small amount of oil in each injector fitting on the bottom side of the fuel rail in order for the o_ring to slide in easier. At the engine, push each injector down into the manifold fully and make sure they are all as straight as possible. Lower the intake tube/fuel rail assembly onto the fuel injectors and mounting studs. You will not be able to see the injectors. Carefully rock the assembly down onto the injectors and get each injector lined up with its port in the fuel rail (you can move the injectors by their electrical connectors). Once you are sure the injectors are aligned with the holes in the fuel rail ( this takes a minute to do), smoothly press down on the rail, rocking slightly to help the injector O-rings slide in. The fit is tight. You should feel the injectors slide in as the fuel rail suddenly comes down about 3/16". If installed properly, there will be little space between the bottom of the fuel rail and the top of the injector rail stands and you will be able to turn the injector by its connector. Install the washers and nylon lock nuts from box #1 onto the studs, but do not fully tighten. Slide the silicone hose and clamps into place at the rear of the tube. Turn the injector connectors slightly toward the rear as possible.



51. Open box #7, which contains the passenger's side intake tube/fuel rail assembly, idle air control gasket and mounting hardware. Install the idle air controller and gasket on the intake tube at the forward end, with the hose connection facing forward, using two of the 3/4" long socket head screws with flat washers. Once completed, connect the electrical connection at the idle air controller. Rotate all injector connectors toward the rear. Make sure the wire to the forward injector on the passenger's side is clear of the bypass valve's actuating arm.

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52. Box #6 contains the intake tube crossover and its mounting bolts/washers. There are four fine thread bolts, which hold the crossover to the tubes, and two coarse thread bolts for the throttle bracket. The crossover mounts to the top forward ends of the intake tubes. The throttle bracket will be on the driver's side and faces forward. Install the crossover with a lock and flat washer on each bolt. Snug, but do not tighten as this part is only serving to align components for the next step. See picture #8.

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[DanB]

53. Tighten the eight fuel injector rail lock nuts, securing the rails in place. Set the position of the hoses connecting the intake tubes to the airbox and clamp in place. Remove the intake tube crossover.

54. In box #5, locate the fuel pressure test port adapter fitting. Install the original fuel pressure test port, removed from the original manifold in step #16. Use Teflon tape or sealant on the pressure fitting threads and tighten. Install this new assembly onto the forward end of the passenger's side fuel rail with the pressure test port facing inward or upward. Tighten the assembly onto the fuel rail fitting by holding the fitting in place and turning the nut on the fuel rail. Note that these are aluminum fittings. Over-tightening can cause failure, which could lead to fuel leaks and a risk of fire. Use appropriate force when tightening. A drop of oil on these threads are recommended. Do not use sealant on any of the tapered fuel line fittings. See picture #8.

55. Loosely install the short braided fuel line from box #5 between the passenger's side fuel rail fitting and the T-fitting attached to the long fuel line. Install the short 90 degree tube fitting between the driver's side fuel rail and T-fitting. Tighten all the fuel line connections, making sure there are no kinks or twists in the hoses.

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[DanB]

56. In the installation box #4, locate the 90 degree, 1.5" inside diameter bypass tube and hose clamps. Install this hose between the bypass valve on the manifold and the passengers side intake tube. The hose can be trimmed if too long and may fit better one way than another. Do not place screw portion of the upper clamp at the top of the hose. There is little hood clearance and the screw could go through the hood pad. See picture #8.

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57. Install the tube crossover. Adjust fuel rail slightly if necessary. Place the lock washers under the heads of the bolts and the flat washer under them. Tighten to approximately 9 ft/lbs.

58. Inside box #6, locate the L-shaped fuel injector wiring harness bracket, zinc plated 1/4" bolt, two larger diameter washers and nylock nut. Install this bracket onto the rear upper corner of the driver's side valve cover with the bracket pointing back. Mount the bracket holding the two large injector harness connectors to this bracket.

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59. Inside the installation box #4, locate the 5" long 5/32" vacuum hose and the two long tie wraps. Connect the hose to the Manifold Air Pressure sensor removed at step #17. Connect the MAP sensor to its electrical connection coming from the injector wiring harness. Connect the MAP sensor vacuum hose to the fitting at the rear of the driver's side intake tube. Use the two thin tie wraps to secure the MAP sensor to the large injector harness connectors (push the tie wraps through the mounting holes on the MAP sensor) See picture #9.

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[PaulP]

nice write up, you stopped working on it for two years ?

 

[ViperJeff]

This has got to be the most detailed DIY I've seen in a long time

Great Job

 

[DanB]

On to step 60. I'll get this thing on the road this summer. That's my goal. I'm giving myself 89 days.

 

[TalonTSi90]

This has got to be the most detailed DIY I've seen in a long time

Great Job

Back in the days of the Talons and Eclipses these were called VFAQ's and usually had many pics documenting the processes Great to see some people carrying that on