Driver window not working

[Rainmanbab]

I know this has been discussed to death, but I am new to club and could use some help.I own a 1996 GTS that the driver window is not working. If I try to open the window it goes down about 1/2 an inch and stops. So I don't think it's the switch or the regulator- I hope. Anybody in the Chicago area that can fix this. I really could use the help.

 

[steel snake]

Hi, I have a 2oo2 RT10, having the window problem too. Always the driver's side as it gets the most use. I bot mine with 5k miles on it and wire work had already been done (poorly). Mine stopped working in the down position (at 14k) and will not move, period. Probably wires since there is no sound at all when the switch is moved. Your diagnosis may be correct. If it proves to be wires, it's the design of the wire path thru the body boot thru the door. The constant excessive bending in that section ultimately kills the wires. Most cars run them vertically which moves the wiring at a minimum. Passenger door is fine, not much use. I searched eBay and Amazon for "super flexible auto wire" and found several options which I'm hoping will lengthen the repair intervals. Since there is enuf room for excess wire under the dash, I plan to park it there, so the next person (or me) has plenty of wire to work with. It's a tedious, tight quartered job at best. Good luck! SS

 

[GTS Dean]

As a very temporary stopgap attempt, you can try squeezing/jiggling the bellows between the foot box and door while operating the switch. It may get you a few cycles.

 

[daveg]

So my 96 had issues as well. I always have problems with the switch. I replaced it and it was fine for a year or 2 and then the new one starts acting up. I would look at the switch first and then go to the door wiring.

 

[wibago]

Hi, I have a 2002 RT10, having the window problem too. Always the driver's side as it gets the most use. I bought mine with 5k miles on it and wire work had already been done (poorly). Mine stopped working in the down position (at 14k) and will not move, period. Probably wires since there is no sound at all when the switch is moved. Your diagnosis may be correct. If it proves to be wires, it's the design of the wire path thru the body boot thru the door, similar to how the Polaris RZR Pro XP Soft Rear Window has to flex repeatedly with movement. The constant excessive bending in that section ultimately kills the wires. Most cars run them vertically which moves the wiring at a minimum. Passenger door is fine, not much use. I searched eBay and Amazon for "super flexible auto wire" and found several options which I'm hoping will lengthen the repair intervals. Since there is enuf room for excess wire under the dash, I plan to park it there, so the next person (or me) has plenty of wire to work with. It's a tedious, tight quartered job at best. Good luck! SS

If the window only drops about ½ inch and then stops, it’s almost always the window regulator, even if the switch seems fine. The cables inside the regulator tend to fray or bind with age, and the motor will still try to move the glass but can’t go any farther. Less commonly, it can be a weak window motor, but the regulator is the usual failure point. A quick check is to remove the door panel and see if the glass moves freely by hand. If it doesn’t, the regulator is bad. In the Chicago area, any Viper-experienced shop, classic Mopar specialist, or a good independent body/interior shop should be able to handle this. It’s a straightforward repair once diagnosed.