Header collector gasket install

[Camfab]

Allrighty then.

The sills came off in 5 minutes....I'm guessing lining them up is a bit more effort than getting them off but its straightforward enough.

I had to take one section of pipe out so I could clean up the flanges and get that burned RTV out of there. Nice craftsmanship indeed.

I used a Jeg's copper gasket (with a little crush bump as well) bolted everything up and can still feel a leak. Dammit.

I took it all apart again and checked to see if the flages are straight/flat and they appear to be very flat. The leak is just a tiny one, but while I'm in there I want to get it done right so it stays good for a while.

Any ideas? Thicker gasket? Different metal gasket? Dan, are the mesh-containing ones thicker?

Any words of counsel or encouragement are welcome.

Off to the parts store....again.

Your issue illustrates why I would never buy that product. It's makes use of the same old gasket technology that came with thoses old leaky ****** headers 30 yrs. ago. The OEM tubular header uses V-bands, Your headers fit into the old high performance profile............spend a bunch of money and create a bunch of headaches. Cut off those 50 cent flanges and replace them with V-bands.

 

[DrumrBoy]

Good suggestion. I actually didn't buy them, they were on the car when I bought it. I will probably redo the pipes in the sill and get a different muffler set up soon. When I cut it up I'll be sure to upgrade the flanges. For no, I'm just trying to make 'em stop leaking....makes the foot well really hot on long drives.

 

[dave6666]

Wow... Ribbed gaskets outdated? I've been doing engineering and maintenance in the chemical industry for 27 years now, and they are still the standard.

If your flanges are flat, find a gasket or sealer that works.

If your flanges are warped or you are bored, yup, I'd highly recommend the upgrade suggested.

Cut, weld, cuss, post-n-whine, ask Lou why he uses 'em, cuss, whine-n-post...

Oh yeah. DRINK BEER and GRILL DEAD ANIMAL PARTS!!!

PS - I think the reason they switched to the single clamp type flange is that idiots can do it successfully, every time, without missing their mandated break time on the assembly line.

 

[dave6666]

Allrighty then.

The sills came off in 5 minutes....I'm guessing lining them up is a bit more effort than getting them off but its straightforward enough.

I had to take one section of pipe out so I could clean up the flanges and get that burned RTV out of there. Nice craftsmanship indeed.

I used a Jeg's copper gasket (with a little crush bump as well) bolted everything up and can still feel a leak. Dammit.

I took it all apart again and checked to see if the flages are straight/flat and they appear to be very flat. The leak is just a tiny one, but while I'm in there I want to get it done right so it stays good for a while.

Any ideas? Thicker gasket? Different metal gasket? Dan, are the mesh-containing ones thicker?

Any words of counsel or encouragement are welcome.

Off to the parts store....again.

Well, the Belanger flanges installed with only copper RTV have passed their first scrutiny. Had to break one of the 3 bolt flanges loose to make some fitment adjustments to the new side exhaust, and after about 900 miles things look good apart.

Just bare flat flanges with some RTV residue showing, and no tell-tale signs of leakage.

Lou

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[DrumrBoy]

Thanks for the assistance on the headers. I've gotten the collector flange sealed well and now it leaks from the place where the primaries slide into the collector. I'm not sure whose headers they are (John H's perhaps) but have tried to snug them up without success. A couple of folks who've looked at it suggest that once these type of slide-on/press fit systems come loose, there's no fixing them. Belangers are now on the Christmas list.....