Help, vacuum bleeding problems

ViperDave

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Just got myself a vacuum bleeder for the breaks but am having trouble with air being sucked in through the thread of the bleed ****** giving me bubbles in the bleeder tube. Because of this I can’t be sure I have all the air out of the system and a good bleed.

Does anyone else suffer this problem with vacuum bleeders and is there anything I can do to stop it?
 

Venom500

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ViperDave,

The best thing to do is have a partner work the brake pedal while you bleed each individual caliper, that way you are sure of a good bleed.
 

1TONY1

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ViperDave,

The best thing to do is have a partner work the brake pedal while you bleed each individual caliper, that way you are sure of a good bleed.

Yep, I agree with you. I was not impressed with my vacuum bleeder. A pressure bleed system is the best way.
 

obaa996

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Sometimes, simply pressing down on the bleeder ****** will press the threads together and seal well enough to prevent bubbles. A bit of teflon tape would also work.
If you don't have any air in the system to begin with, and are just changing fluid, you won't introduce air into the system unless you drain the reservoir too low.
I use a power vacuum bleeder, and am usually more worried that I have all the old fluid out. If you flush enough fluid through the system without letting the reservoir get to low, I don't think trapped air will be an issue.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Speed bleeders incorporate a check valve so one person can pump the pedal without sucking air back in. They also have some "stuff" on the threads to create a good seal.
 

cgmaster

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Just be carefull not to get too much sealant of any type on the threads or in the system.
 

95Viper

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Return it and get a pressure bleeder. MotiveBleeder. Only about $50 and they now have a stock cap that fits non ABS Vipers. Just add a couple bottles of Motul, pump it up, and bleed the calipers.
 

DG Viper

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Agree with 95Viper... I followed the same advice after reading some posts on this here on the Viper Board.

MotiveBleeder worked great... no hassle, no mess, no trapped air in the system.

Good luck.
 
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ViperDave

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Sounds like the vacuum bleeder was a waste of money then. All sounded good in theory and if only it didn’t **** air in via the bleeder would be great. Might try some ptfe tape around the thread next time and see if that helps and try it on the other cars failing that, relegate it to other fluid removal jobs.

I did try a pressure bleeder that I could get in the UK but none of the caps fit and what I bodged up looked like it was likely to make a mess of my paintwork. Will have to try and do something better with it or find something more suitable on my next holiday to the US.
 

Joel

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Stick with the vacuum bleeder. Yes it does **** air from the bleed screw which looks confusing, but it still does a great job of bleeding the brakes. I normally bleed about a litre of fluid through the system to completely flush it through. When I have finished there is no air in the system and the pedal is firm. And its clean and simple. And it doesnt introduce pressurised air to the surface of your fresh brake fluid. Incidentally, the vacuum bleeder I use is Draper and connects to my compressor.
 

95Viper

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The Motive Bleeder works off 15-20 psi. You pump it up and it pressurizes the reservoir. This isn't going to make the fluid go bad or anything, heck it's only exposed to air for a few seconds and that happens when you open the reservoir.

ViperDave, Motive used to only have a universal cap with crazy hooks on the sides. They now have a standard cap that fits non ABS Vipers.
 

ViperRay

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I previously used a vacuum system to bleed the brakes. It works if you are patient and don't create too much of a vacuum (which ***** air into the hose).

I switched to the speed bleeders and it works better and no confusing air bubbles.

Be sure to get the "IV bag" with it....it attaches to the bleed screw so you can sit in the car and pump the brakes while the bag collects the fluid neatly.

The IV bag and tubing also prevents any air from being sucked back into the brake line when you let up on the pedal in the event the check valves in the speed bleeders start to fail since there is a constant column of fluid in the tubing in contact with the bleeder valve which would regurgitate back into the caliper (rather than air) should this happen.

It's also quicker than the vacuum method.

I can't speak to the Motive Bleeder.

www.speedbleeder.com
 

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