ByteMe
Viper Owner
I was just wondering how long gas can be kept in reasonably good condition without use of gas stabilizers. Secondly, how long will it go with stabilizer added?
How long will gasoline last?
- Thread starter ByteMe
- Start date
I know that regular gas seemed to go stall after only a few
months of sitting. However the gerry can on my jeep was
treated with stabilizer and I just had to use it last month
after about two years and the jeep didn't seem to mind much.
However this new E10 blend doesn't seem to hold up well at
all. After six months with stabilizer my lawnmower coughs
on the crap every time I start it up.
months of sitting. However the gerry can on my jeep was
treated with stabilizer and I just had to use it last month
after about two years and the jeep didn't seem to mind much.
However this new E10 blend doesn't seem to hold up well at
all. After six months with stabilizer my lawnmower coughs
on the crap every time I start it up.
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
I'm sure "Tom, F&L GoR" will be responding shortly. He will give us all the most detailed and accurate explanation known to mankind. I, for one, will be lost by about his second sentence 
MacManInfi
Enthusiast
I know from experience that California gas starts to seperate after two to three weeks. You won't notice it with fuel injection, but in carburated vehicles, particularly small carbs like on motorcycles, the fuel seperates and the jets get clogged.
I had a 2005 Kawasaki ZRX1200R and I couldn't leave it parked for more than two weeks or it would clog, and would run like it had a miss. I talked to the bike shop and they said it's a real problem for bikes with carbs. They have bikes come into the shop on a regular basis to be cleaned out. Said the mechanic drains the fuel and puts it into his truck and his truck doesn't seem to mind. Seems the high pressure of fuel injection handles it a lot better.
I don't know how long it'll take until it starts causing problems with fuel injection.
I sure try to drive all of our vehicles on a regular basis to keep things flowing. I purchased some fuel stabalizer, and I'm pretty sure the instructions say it will keep the fuel from seperating for up to six weeks. I'll double check when I get home.
I had a 2005 Kawasaki ZRX1200R and I couldn't leave it parked for more than two weeks or it would clog, and would run like it had a miss. I talked to the bike shop and they said it's a real problem for bikes with carbs. They have bikes come into the shop on a regular basis to be cleaned out. Said the mechanic drains the fuel and puts it into his truck and his truck doesn't seem to mind. Seems the high pressure of fuel injection handles it a lot better.
I don't know how long it'll take until it starts causing problems with fuel injection.
I sure try to drive all of our vehicles on a regular basis to keep things flowing. I purchased some fuel stabalizer, and I'm pretty sure the instructions say it will keep the fuel from seperating for up to six weeks. I'll double check when I get home.
Search for Tom and BELIEVE what he tells you
F+L GoR = Fuel, Lube Geek of the realm..... (I wunder who 1st dubbed him with that title?)
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Hi Chad. I'll try not to meet your expectations. (There, that's two.)
Gasoline should last a year if kept airtight. Airtight!
If the air is allowed in contact, the moisture will be absorbed, especially by ethanol, and can cause a haziness or separation. Normally water and gasoline do not mix, but ethanol helps to have plenty of water be absorbed. That's why vented carburetor bowls are bad. Keep containers tightly closed.
Stabilizers only prevent oxidation, or gummy deposits formed when in contact with the oxygen in the air. That's why vented carburetor bowls get so bad. Drain bowls if not used. Keep containers tightly closed.
Most of why gasoline gets "stale" is because the portion that evaporates most easily has evaporated. That's why vented carburetor bowls are bad. Duh. This is the portion that helps the engine to start and keep it running when warming up. Without it, the engine runs poorly. Keep containers tightly closed.
Another reason you may think it's the gasoline, but it's really not, is because gasoline is adjusted very frequently during the year. Depending on where the gasoline is sold, it goes through large swings of volatility (how easily it evaporates) to accomodate the local weather. Consequently when you buy summer gasoline (low volatility) and you want to start your snow blower in the cold... it's because the gasoline never did have much volatile material in it and the engine coughs. Try to buy it closer to when you'll use it. And keep the containers tightly closed.
The volatility issue works the other way, too. Winter gasoline with lots of lighter components will cause vapor lock if used in the summer. Since you all keep the container tightly closed, you'll notice the large burp or hiss when you unscrew the cap in July.
Test for Chad: What kind of container will you store gasoline in?
Gasoline should last a year if kept airtight. Airtight!
If the air is allowed in contact, the moisture will be absorbed, especially by ethanol, and can cause a haziness or separation. Normally water and gasoline do not mix, but ethanol helps to have plenty of water be absorbed. That's why vented carburetor bowls are bad. Keep containers tightly closed.
Stabilizers only prevent oxidation, or gummy deposits formed when in contact with the oxygen in the air. That's why vented carburetor bowls get so bad. Drain bowls if not used. Keep containers tightly closed.
Most of why gasoline gets "stale" is because the portion that evaporates most easily has evaporated. That's why vented carburetor bowls are bad. Duh. This is the portion that helps the engine to start and keep it running when warming up. Without it, the engine runs poorly. Keep containers tightly closed.
Another reason you may think it's the gasoline, but it's really not, is because gasoline is adjusted very frequently during the year. Depending on where the gasoline is sold, it goes through large swings of volatility (how easily it evaporates) to accomodate the local weather. Consequently when you buy summer gasoline (low volatility) and you want to start your snow blower in the cold... it's because the gasoline never did have much volatile material in it and the engine coughs. Try to buy it closer to when you'll use it. And keep the containers tightly closed.
The volatility issue works the other way, too. Winter gasoline with lots of lighter components will cause vapor lock if used in the summer. Since you all keep the container tightly closed, you'll notice the large burp or hiss when you unscrew the cap in July.
Test for Chad: What kind of container will you store gasoline in?
mad0953
Enthusiast
Chad will probably store it in a to-go ******* cup.
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
Test for Chad: What kind of container will you store gasoline in?
Ummmm, 12? No wait! My answer is C. No wait! Can I phone a friend?
But for the 1st time, I understood Tom throughout his whole post! 
Chad will probably store it in a to-go ******* cup.
Hey quit being funny, I'm taking a test here
And even if I do, at least now I know to keep the to-go cup tightly sealed MacManInfi
Enthusiast
Thanks Tom! This makes sense now as to how my Kawasaki could be so much more sensitive than my Honda was even though both were carbureted.
Or do what the ricers do when they have fuel to spare...
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1845064
Now THAT is one DANG FUNNY reply......I laughed so hard I almost knocked over my half-empty, open nozzle attached, vent open, generator gas can.
