I broke somthing....

[Sean 96 McViper]

Hi all,
I moved to Utah from PA about 2 years ago and I don't think I have posted since I moved out here so many may not remember me, but I need some help... please.

I had my car out today (probably only the 10th time this year) and as I was on the gas at about 70 MPH I heard a very, very loud "thump", the car shook for a moment and then it felt like a tire was out of balance. But as I slowed down I could hear a grinding coming from over my right shoulder. When I apply power the grinding gets louder, when I am coasting I can't hear anything strange. I don't notice anything wrong by looking under the car.

Obviously sounds like a rear diff issue, but how bad and how much to these things cost to fix? (My extended warrantee ran out in June )

My car has only 15K on it I can't believe I am having an issue like this.

Thanks for any help you can provide!!

 

[Hostile]

Sean
My 2cents,sounds more like a wheel bearing or
U-joint than problems with the diff.

Skeeter

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

Sean
My 2cents,sounds more like a wheel bearing or
U-joint than problems with the diff.

You know what! The grinding sound is worse when turning to the left, putting more pressure on my right rear tire. You may be exactly right!

 

[twinturbo3150]

well if you cant figure it out, I would take it to Dave harris at hinckley dodge. What part of salt lake are you from, Im from salt lake as well

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

well if you cant figure it out, I would take it to Dave harris at hinckley dodge. What part of salt lake are you from, Im from salt lake as well

Hi!
I actually live in Draper (on south mountain). I have been to Hinckley before, I believe the tech was Tim who worked on my car last year?

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

I broke the elastic string on my underpants....can anyone help repair it?

You may want to lay off the bean burritos!

 

[got one]

You know the older these cars get and the less the are driven, the more prone they are to having items break. Gaskets and such are a great example.

Try and drive it more.

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

You know the older these cars get and the less the are driven, the more prone they are to having items break. Gaskets and such are a great example.

Try and drive it more.

Good tip, I used to try an drive it at least every two weeks, now sometimes I'll let is sit up to a month at times.

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

So it turns out it was the rear dif that has gone. Tech says that the main bearing failed and threw a bunch of metal into the diff.

A few questions for anyone who would be kind enough to respond...

Quoted $3660 for a new diff and labor, does that seem fair?

What about repairing the diff? I drove the car at low speed 25 - 30 mph to the dealer (< 30 miles total) after the problem occurred could the diff possibly be repaired?

I have only 15k on the car, anyone else had a problem with your diff with such low miles?

I had the rear diff fluid replaced by a dealer a few hundred miles ago, could if the wrong fluid was used, could this cause a problem in a few hundred miles? I guess I am slightly skeptical as I do most of the fluid changes myself and the only change I have done by a third party is the only component I have had problem with. Probably a coincidence but I figured I would ask...

Thanks for any advice!

 

[CANTDRIVE55]

Since you can pick up a used but complete stock diff in the $500 range, the labor would seem high to me.

 

[obaa996]

Check with a 4x4 shop; re-gearing/rebuilding diffs cost around $500 here. The diff itself is easy to remove/replace, although a couple of the bolts need gorrilla arms.
I think $3600 is pretty high, although probably $3k of that is just for a new diff. I think you're better off with a used one or getting yours rebuilt

 

[99 R/T 10]

$3600 is rediculous. Have you ever done your own work? I agree with obaa996, go to a 4X4 shop. Check with Paul Scharf at 800-338-4002 or JonB at www.partsrack.com They can probably get you a good used rear end for less than $900 and I would guess the install will be about $500.

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

Thanks for the replies!
I called a local deaer to see what the cost of parts were for the dif, and found that the gears themselves can't be bought separately from the entire assembly. Any tips on sourcing new gears? I found that all bearings cost about $275.00 total.

 

[99 R/T 10]

see my post above, Paul or JonB.

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

Thanks for the reply. I'll give thoes guys a call.

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

One last question... the local tech also pointed out that my valve cover seals needed to be replaced. I figure I can do this myself, anything special about replacing these gaskets? I recall when replacing the oil pan that new bolts should be use every time the pan is removed as the bots stretch slightly after tightening. Is the same true for the valve cover bolts?

Thanks!

 

[99 R/T 10]

You can reuse the bolts, even in the oil pan. The only bolts I know of that shoudl be replaced after a use is the head bolts. On the valve cover, just try tightening the bolts first and clean off any excess oil. I bet that the leak stops.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Sorry to hear about your diff. $3600 is definitely ridiculous. As stated, Jon B. should have what you need. Just wondering, do you still have the stock yellow wheels on your car?

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

see my post above, Paul or JonB.

Thanks a lot for the help. Ended up buying a used diff from Paul, it has only 9000 miles on it. Even if I have the same bad luck with this diff (failing at 15k) as I had with my orgional, it should still last me 5 years based on my current usage.

The dealer will be replacing it at a cost of $450.00. (They charge $100 per/hr )

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

Sorry to hear about your diff. $3600 is definitely ridiculous. As stated, Jon B. should have what you need. Just wondering, do you still have the stock yellow wheels on your car?

Chad,
Yup! Still have the yellow wheels. What does you vin end in? Mine is "00032" how about yours? I think the first 166 off the line were red/yellow.
-Sean

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Chad,
Yup! Still have the yellow wheels. What does you vin end in? Mine is "00032" how about yours? I think the first 166 off the line were red/yellow.
-Sean

My VIN ends in 00672. I havent heard they were the first 166 off the line, but since Dodge randomly assigned VIN's, its possible. I like trying to keep up with what McViper owners have done with their wheels. Here's what I got so far, counting yours:

7 sets still on cars
7 sets in storage (me and another owner have spare sets)
Estimated 10 sets have been chromed by one of the vendors on here

Original Thread:
http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=599401&highlight=yellow+wheels

Post some pics of your car! Any mods done to it?

 

[viper spray]

E-bay has rear ends pop up from time to time , used of course....

 

[SYNFULL]

Also try Scott at x2builders.com Usually has very good deals and is trustworthy.

 

[Purdue_Boiler_Viper]

I'd try tightening the valve cover bolts a little as well before doing a complete swap out. But, be careful not to break one. Rcommended torque is 95 in lbs. If you do replace, be careful not to scrape up the mating surfaces. DC recommends using a plastic scraper.

 

[CROM]

nvm........

 

[Jack B]

Everyone is right on - don't look for parts, pick up the complete assembly. I bought one recently for $600. The others have been polite, that dealer is a robber. Any average mechanic can install that assembly in 2-3 hours.