Installing Penske's in Gen II RT

wastntim

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Hey all:

Just bought a set of three way adjustable penske's and hope to install them in the next couple of weeks. I know there have been a bunch of posts in the Gen III forum about where to install canisters and the install itself. However, I have not found many posts about installs on Gen II's, especially on an RT. I know the Gen III"s mount on the front support for easy access, however, with the Gen II hood, I am not sure this is still a good spot or if another spot would be better. Additionally, I saw AB's thread on removal of a coilover on a Gen III rear, is this the exact same process on a Gen II rear.

The cables to the canisters I received are rather short, and therefore, limit where I can go with them.

Any and all suggestions regarding this issue are greatly appreciated as this is ALL new to me I am learning as I am going. :)
 

plumcrazy

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<<----- taking notes too. gonna be doing them hopefully in the next month or so.
 

Alternative

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I usually see the canisters mounted on the A-arms.

Here's a photo I found from an RSI TT Gen II

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VIPER BAZ UK

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Joel in the UK has them mounted under the hood near the head light..
Will try and find pics.
 

Alternative

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Before you guys get longer lines, so you can mount the canister "better", call Penske or a Viper suspension expert to check if there are drawbacks.
 

dave6666

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Before you guys get longer lines, so you can mount the canister "better", call Penske or a Viper suspension expert to check if there are drawbacks.

If they are just AN type connections on the hose, step up one hose size if you are concerned about pressure drop due to an extended hose length.

That is a valid point though. Going from a 6" long #3 hose to an 18" to 24" long #3 hose might slow the reaction time of the cannister.
 

Joseph Dell

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If they are just AN type connections on the hose, step up one hose size if you are concerned about pressure drop due to an extended hose length.

That is a valid point though. Going from a 6" long #3 hose to an 18" to 24" long #3 hose might slow the reaction time of the cannister.

When you buy the penske shocks, they give you the option for longer hoses. but you have to know to select it.
 

01ACR/VIPER

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How hard is it getting the rear forks (saddle...yoke?) off the old and on to the new?:dunno:
 
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wastntim

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Spoke with Penske rep. He said their should be no noticeable difference in performance between the shorter and longer hoses.
 

Alternative

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How hard is it getting the rear forks (saddle...yoke?) off the old and on to the new?:dunno:

That will be the toughest challenge during the install, the rest will be cake.

I'm not sure if the Penske's come with it's own clevis/fork, but the Koni/ACR 2812's don't. It looks like they were locktite'd from the factory. I took mine to a suspension guy, and I'll let you know if he's able to get it off.
 

Alternative

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Just doing the same thing
Its going to take some heat I think??

Carl

That's what I've been told... At least on the ACR shocks, because it has an adaptor inside the clevis/fork, so the narrower Koni 2812 shock body threads in.
 

Dave's Big Brakes

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WD-40 let set a day to loosen, then the fun part:omg: A big pipe wrench(use a rag) and a 4' cheater bar :2tu:

Fork needs to be in a good wise,(use rags) then bump the cheater bar( do not pull) this will break the crud loose and most times will turn by hand after breaking loose.:usa: It's called leverage:2tu:

Work's for this old guy:D every time:drive:

Big Brake Dave:drive:
 

Joseph Dell

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i used a torch and it was no issue at all. didn't have to heat 'em that long either.

fear no fire! just don't do it near drums of C-16!
 
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