Lost Oil Pressure

[Frankster]

Was in the middle of a spirited driving session. My engine temps went to about 240 on the guage. I then noticed zero oil pressure so shut down and coasted to the side.

Called the wife to get a trailer and pick me up. When she got there I started the car to get it on the trailer and noticed I had my oil pressure back but the engine was running rough with a squeaking sound.

So then what happened? Why did my oil pressure go away and then come back when the engine cooled down? What mechanism could cause you to loose pressure and then it comes back? Oil level was OK so I'm perplexed.

 

[SingleMalt]

Aw, poor Frank. You have a Gen 1? They are notorious for oil slosh (especially the 1996 RT/10 motor). What happens under hard, prolonged braking or turning is the oil flows away from the pickup resulting in a loss of oil pressure. By the time the gauge reads 0, your oil pressure has been dangerously low for a while. I basically demolished my original motor by driving it hard without protection. There are 2 good fixes for this:

1) Baffled oil pan
2) Accusump (for extra protection)

I have both now and my troubles are gone! I'm sorry about your situation; have a shop do a leakdown test and pull the pan to check the mains. You may be able to get off cheaply for now.

Mike

 

[Frankster]

singlemalt
I should have known that would be the problem. Looks like an engine teardown is in my future.

So then if you're a singlemalt what is a doublemalt?

 

[TexasPettey]

Most folks I know without a dry sump run 1/2 to 1 quart over when doing track events.

 

[Jack B]

Most folks I know without a dry sump run 1/2 to 1 quart over when doing track events.

Overfilled can be as bad as low, you aerate the oil and loose pressure.

 

[eliems]

So this doesn't happen with Gen 11 cars? They redesigned the oil pan?

 

[Viper Specialty]

If you need to do a teardown, we can supply you with a rebuild kit including some upgraded parts, as well as an Accusump if needed to keep this from happening again. We also offer "out of block" cylinder bore/hone service for Gen-1's, so you wont even have to pull your engine to do a COMPLETE rebuild if needed or mileage requires. I would be very careful about running the engine until it is at least partially torn down and inspected- that squeak may very well be a spun bearing, which is just going to continue to do more damage if the engine is run.

 

[Viper Specialty]

So this doesn't happen with Gen 11 cars? They redesigned the oil pan?

Gen-2's are better so long as they have the later larger oil pan, but they are by no means immune and will benefit from the same additions.

 

[SingleMalt]

Dan's a terrific guy and will help you get whatever you need to put that motor in good working order if you want to do the work yourself. If you need a reputable and reliable shop in Ca to do the tear-down and not take you to the cleaners, trust none other than A&C Performance. They have the pan baffles you need (1st mod to make before anything else as it reduces slosh and aeration).

Todd + Mike @ A&C: 951-696-0500