New Engine Break In

fe4snake

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Hi everyone, I just wanted fine out about some suggestions to properly break-in a new motor build. I have new rods, pistons, rings, bearings, cylinder heads, and cam. I was told to use Pen 30 W break-in oil. How long should I keep this oil in my motor? :confused:
 

Russ M

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1) Change oil/filter after 10 min of running.
2) Drive for 100-200 miles to make sure everything is good, look for obvious problems that are motor related.
3) Take the car to chassis dyno and tune to max potential.
4) Drive it like you mean it, don't be afraid to get on it for best performance you need to treat it like you stole it.
5) Start using synthetic oil based on what your engine builder is recommending.

PS. Change oil/filter every 500 miles after the initial 10 min quick change, for at least 1000 miles.
 
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fe4snake

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Thanks, for the info. One more thing, should I keep the rpm between 1500-2500 for the initial start-up?
 

dipapa

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I also had my 2005 Copperhead motor build to much higher performance standards 2 months ago.

My builder used Brad Penn 30W break in motor oil

I used that oil for first 500-700 miles along with the Mopar white Viper oil filter.

I wI'll then change oil and filter and use breakin oil again for another 1000 miles

here is the best motor break in process I have been able to find

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

once my built motor was installed I believe my car went throught did some basic road testing to prove it was ready for dyno tune.

I don't know every specific detail but it was about a dozen or so runs to get a complete tune.
Loading the motor hard, not abusing it however, and decelerating to create vacuum from what I heard are most important factors to motor break in.
 

plumcrazy

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I saved a few PM's from some guy named tom who knows a little bit about oil, actually i taught him everything he knows.... here is what the PM's say.

what oil would you tell me to use from then on after the break in ? or just stick with the 20/50 valv racing oil ?

they said they use it in all their race engines and always do well with it. but i trust YOU the most on this stuff obviously.


thanx again,
Phil
If you don't gag at the thought of diesel oil, that's the way to go and what I use. It's a mineral oil 15W40, so it's thick enough when hot and thin enough when cold. Lots of additives for cleanliness and wear protection - made for 80,000 mile drains rather than 5,000 miles. And it's not expensive, found at Walmart, comes in gallons. Any major brand is fine - Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300. It has similar wear protection as the race oil, and lots of budget racers use it anyway.

If that's too much a stretch, then pick any oil that meets European car requirements - the ACEA specs. Mobil has a bunch in different viscosity grades, and all the majors will have one or two. Because there are lots of diesel passenger cars in Europe, these oils are also additive boosted, and many are synthetic.

**********

my engine is on the way home from the engine builder today.

for break in he told me to use racing valvoline 20/50, change oil after it gets up to operating temps and put more 20/50 valvoline oil back in.

he said NOT to bother with synthetic. does that make sense to you ? he said there's no need for it.

and is that racing valvoline 20/50 any good ?

Yes, Valvoline Racing oil has more anti-wear additive that gasoline engine oil, so it will protect parts during break-in. It's a little thicker than I'd like, so you could also use 15W40 diesel oil, which also has more antiwear than gasoline engine oil. It's more expensive, but Joe Gibbs Racing makes a break in oil also.

If he's saying to warm it up once and change oil, that's a little (well, a lot) extreme. New cars don't tell you to do that. Unless he has another reason, I'd use the Valvoline for as long as it takes for break-on and then switch.

Synthetic oil is overrated. The additives make the performance difference - for example, the Valvoline and diesel oil have more antiwear additive. Diesel oil also has more detergent and dispersant. The high temperature protection is provided by additives instead of the base oil, so unless you are starting the car at -30C, I don't think you will ever see a benefit vs. a diesel oil or a Euro-car oil (one with ACEA performance specs.)

-Tom
 

plumcrazy

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that was the first time i had to break a viper engine in. the next time doug levin did it for me and i dont know exactly what his procedure was. but you can trust what tom says about oil.

personally, id run the Pen 30 W break-in oil they want you to use for maybe 100 miles, id change it, using the same for another 100 or so miles. keeping it below 2000rpms for a while, change it again and then go to the dyno for tuning.

i dont believe you can change the oil too often on breakin. id rather be safe after spending that kinda coin
 

dipapa

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personally, id run the Pen 30 W break-in oil they want you to use for maybe 100 miles, id change it, using the same for another 100 or so miles. keeping it below 2000rpms for a while, change it again and then go to the dyno for tuning.

i dont believe you can change the oil too often on breakin. id rather be safe after spending that kinda coin

Yeah, changing oil quickly first time, with an oil quality inspection, can only be of benefit. I had to drive the car back home 450 miles in one shot.

My first new motor oil change after 600 miles was gonna be intereting. As motor oil drain plug was released i ran oil through a fine metallic mesh filter to see if any particles were present and visually sampled its cleanliness.

Then I said, its "clean enough to drink"
 
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dipapa

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Hey Plum,

On your PM's there... last line on synthetic

Thats exactly why i posted recently, asking what preffered for final long term running oil

Semi Synthetic or Synthetic???
 

plumcrazy

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after the breakin, i went with synthetic as per doug. but for breakin, most say not to....

you can see where tom says to use diesel oil after its broken in cause f its superior detergents...i have heard it from enough trusted engine builders to trust it but never get around to doing it...im lazy and have a bunch of synthetic n stock.
 

dipapa

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after the breakin, i went with synthetic as per doug. but for breakin, most say not to....

you can see where tom says to use diesel oil after its broken in cause f its superior detergents...i have heard it from enough trusted engine builders to trust it but never get around to doing it...im lazy and have a bunch of synthetic n stock.

Doesnt Diesel oil have too much detergents for our non diesel application and can break down ZDDP in the motor? We are not contaminating the oil as much as them.

Is it better to have less detergents, But some detergents and just do the oil change more frequently?

Im either gonna use
Penn 15W-50 Semi Synthetic or Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Synthetic 20W-50 as my final running oil.
 
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Russ M

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after the breakin, i went with synthetic as per doug. but for breakin, most say not to....

you can see where tom says to use diesel oil after its broken in cause f its superior detergents...i have heard it from enough trusted engine builders to trust it but never get around to doing it...im lazy and have a bunch of synthetic n stock.

More than good enough for me, DLM is one of the few tuners out there that actually work on car rather than concentrate on making pretty videos.
 

dipapa

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Yeah, the Hot Rod Shop local to me whose been around 40 years said I could use the Comp Cam break in additive but i made him order me the Penn 30 break In Oil instead as my builder recommended.

Penn used to be Kendall.

Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil

They also had Joe Gibbs Break In Oil however for the 2nd fill i wanted to stay consistent to what i used the first time.

Joe Gibbs Driven - Break-In Oils


So now im looking for the best final running oil for my Viper motor

The Joe Gibbs Website happens to be very informative.

Joe Gibbs Driven - Training Center

I kinda like there Synthetic Hot Rod Oil
 
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fe4snake

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I have heard about using the diesel oil instead of the synthetic oil. But I thought that was more for turbo applications than a N/A build? Also, from what I'm reading here I should wait about 500 miles before putting this engine on the Dyno?
 

plumcrazy

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i was told its more about heat cycles than actually miles. but 500 or so should do it

need to seat those rings, thats the most important thing

what did greg good tell you to do ?
 
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fe4snake

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i was told its more about heat cycles than actually miles. but 500 or so should do it

need to seat those rings, thats the most important thing

what did greg good tell you to do ?


It has been a while since I last spoke to Greg. He has been very hard to get a hold of. I believe he told me to just run it with regular motor oil and no synthetic oil for the first few 500 miles or so.
 

dipapa

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load, load, load... engine real early.

Load, load, load... seat the rings.

Load, load, load = happy, happy, motor
 

BlknBlu

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First off did you build the motor or have it done? If the latter I would get their recomendation for break in and what they will warranty if things go south. The builder may have thier own breakin procedures that need to be followed for either a tight build or a loose build.

Bruce
 
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fe4snake

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First off did you build the motor or have it done? If the latter I would get their recomendation for break in and what they will warranty if things go south. The builder may have thier own breakin procedures that need to be followed for either a tight build or a loose build.

Bruce

The machine shop did all the engine block prep (bore & hone, line hone, deck the block, resurface crank, set all bearing tolerance, balance the assembly, and installed new billet mains). I did all the short and long block assembly.
 

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