new stereo system phase I

ninjakris

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Posts
245
Reaction score
0
Location
Charleston, SC
I have only had my 06' coupe for a couple months now, but I can't stand the lame sound system that comes on a 90K car. I had an 03 vert before this and it didn't bother me that much because the top was usually down and sound quality was shot anyways. So I figured I would start playing around with the system and see what I could get out of it. Let me first say I am no audiophile (or whatever its called) but I feel I have a pretty good gauge of sound without going all crazy with sound analyzers and stuff. My goal here is to drastically improve the sound of the viper with the option of going back to stock if needed and without spending a ton of money. We just put in a offer on a house so I can't go too crazy with the build. Anyways, here is where I am sitting so far.

1. Laid down about 25 lbs of sound deadener. Similar to dynomat but a knock off brand. I actually had this left over from a previous build. I did the entire trunk area, under the seats, behind bulkhead, and along transmission tunnel.

2. Purchased extra console pieces. I plasti-diped the center console piece flat red. This is a removable product if you have never heard of it. The car has a lot of red accents being a VCA edition and I thought it would compliment the rest of the interior. I still don't know if I like it or not, but its removable and an extra piece, so why not experiment.

3. Install a Sony head unit. I went with a new unit that has a remote app function. This will enable me to control the stereo with either a smart phone or tablet (phase II). Its surprisingly good with a ton of features including Bluetooth everything. I mounted the microphone at the top of the A pillar plastic piece where it meets the headliner.

4. Install new 6.5" speakers. I unsoldered the factory speakers and soldered the leads on the new speakers, enabling me to use the factory connectors. The factory grill also fits over the speakers. You wouldn't even know they were there unless you heard the system. I went with Sony because crutchfield had a deal that gave me 20% off select Sony stereos if I purchase a set of speakers. So they were basically free since the stereo was $200, and the speakers were $50.

That more or less sums up phase I. The stereo is completely transformed and sounds great. With the tweaking to the sound settings in the new stereo, I found a very nice balance. With the new speakers, it relieved some of the low freq. stress on the factory sub and doesn't sound like its struggling with bass heavy tracks now.

What's next? I'm glad you asked. I ran out of sound deadening material, so I didn't get a chance to do the doors. I know from previous builds that it will make a huge difference. That's first. Also, I am also working with my 7" Android tablet and getting everything figured out so I can use it to control the stereo, use GPS navigation, and connect to a Bluetooth OBDII dongle for data logging and GPS speed.

The whole reason I am posting this is to show that you can improve your stereo experience in a viper with just a little time and money. My whole build is going to cost around $500 (my labor is free). And for you guys who say "I never listen to the stereo and love the exhaust", that fine, to each their own.

outside_pic.JPG

photo63.JPG

dynomat.JPG

image.jpeg

image_3_.jpeg
 

PeterMJ

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Posts
1,263
Reaction score
0
What did you do with the factory dash tweeters? Seems like you got coaxials instead of dedicated midbass like in OEM system. Did you disconnect the tweeters or run both doors and tweets at the same time? Curious why you went with coaxials.

In my experience, to limit the road noise in the interior, noise barrier is a better way to go (foam sandwiched between aluminum foil sheet) because it is light and very effective both as noise barrier and heat barrier. Racers use this stuff and it works great. Viscoelastic dampeners are designed to lower the resonant frequency of the panels but are not very effective as noise barrier until you make them heavy and mass loading principle kicks in.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
N

ninjakris

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Posts
245
Reaction score
0
Location
Charleston, SC
For the door speakers, I just hooked them up like the factory speakers were. So the factory tweeters are still in play. I might replace them with something down the road but I am pretty happy with the sound output. I went with coaxials because they were basically free with the stereo purchase and I didn't have anything to loose by trying them out. I figured if I didn't like them I could easily go back to stock. I have probably installed 15± sound systems and it amazes me the horrible quality speakers in many factory systems.

You know way more than I do when it comes to sound deadening. Lol. I actually installed all that before doing the stereo and while it didn't lower the db levels in the car, it feels a lot more solid now if that makes sense. No more squeaks or rattles. I will look into barrier for the doors. That might fit my needs better.
 

PeterMJ

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Posts
1,263
Reaction score
0
For the door speakers, I just hooked them up like the factory speakers were. So the factory tweeters are still in play. I might replace them with something down the road but I am pretty happy with the sound output. I went with coaxials because they were basically free with the stereo purchase and I didn't have anything to loose by trying them out. I figured if I didn't like them I could easily go back to stock. I have probably installed 15± sound systems and it amazes me the horrible quality speakers in many factory systems.

You know way more than I do when it comes to sound deadening. Lol. I actually installed all that before doing the stereo and while it didn't lower the db levels in the car, it feels a lot more solid now if that makes sense. No more squeaks or rattles. I will look into barrier for the doors. That might fit my needs better.
I would not use noise barrier in the doors, they are more or less enclosures and sound deadener works better there (you want to lower the resonant frequency of the door skin to minimize the vibrations, you do not have to worry about road noise there. However, the floor pan and area behind the bulkhead, rigid areas separating interior from the exterior, this is where I would use the noise barrier (think about noise barrier like a double pan window), you are not dealing with vibration here, just noise, so using heavy deadener is not necessary at all. I cannot fault you for doing what you do, there is a lot of misinformation out there, coming from manufacturers and merchants trying to earn living. Generally, I would say that if you cannot flex a panel, you should use barrier instead of dampener.

If the coaxials and tweets running concurrently sound good to you, leave them the way you like them, all that really matters is how you like it. Do not mind my comments, too many years wasted on car and home audio on my part:D
 
OP
OP
N

ninjakris

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Posts
245
Reaction score
0
Location
Charleston, SC
I know there is a ton of science that goes into sound, and that is a black hole I try not fall into. I just go what sounds good and move on. No matter what I do, there is a big ol' corsa exhaust blasting out the sides of the car and anything helps

Peter, have you messed with the vipers system yet? I'm curious on your take in what could improve the system vs. What is not worth the time. Any advise would be helpful especially your take on the rear speakers (I'd you want to call them that)
 

PeterMJ

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Posts
1,263
Reaction score
0
I know there is a ton of science that goes into sound, and that is a black hole I try not fall into. I just go what sounds good and move on. No matter what I do, there is a big ol' corsa exhaust blasting out the sides of the car and anything helps

Peter, have you messed with the vipers system yet? I'm curious on your take in what could improve the system vs. What is not worth the time. Any advise would be helpful especially your take on the rear speakers (I'd you want to call them that)
Uhm, cough, I built a new subwoofer enclosure since the old one rattled real bad. You have a coupe so you can make your car pretty loud real easy, unlike my convertible, LOL. I think the simplest and easiest for you to do is to get some decent midbass in the doors and good tweets in the dash, set it up to run 2 way active up front and 8 inch sub in OEM location. If you want more, you can turn OEM sub location in a mono midbass and then 15in shallow sub in the hatch. Personally, I would ditch those rear tweets or whatever they are and just run the front, it will be more consistent and realistic playback this way. To make the front tweets sound better without any audio install, use a dash mat, if you already do not have one. You may be surprised how much this will improve your sound.
 
OP
OP
N

ninjakris

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Posts
245
Reaction score
0
Location
Charleston, SC
Haha, I have been following the sub enclosure but didn't really notice it was you doing it. Lol. Thanks for the recommendations on things to do. I have to do some thinking now.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,202
Posts
1,681,953
Members
17,703
Latest member
shibbydude
Top