plugs and wires

[BUD]

I am taking my 98 RT10 in for A/C repair (3rd time), the recall, and an oil change. While I am there I am thinkng of having the plugs and wires replaced. I have read here on the board that after 4 years or so they should be replaced. I have 15k miles and it is stock except for smooth tubes and Hennessey exhaust. Should I do the plugs and wires myself? How hard are they to get to? Does Dodge sell a decent set of plugs and wires so I could have them do it? Any advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[red98GTS]

Yes, you can do it yourself. Easy job and access is very good. TONS of info. here if you want to SEARCH spark plugs and spark plug wires. pete

 

[Snake Bitten]

Change 'em yourself...it is not difficult at all...Champion Spark Plugs...Part # RC12LYC and Magnecor Wires I got from JonB @ PartsRack

 

[BUD]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Snake Bitten:
Change 'em yourself...it is not difficult at all...Champion Spark Plugs...Part # RC12LYC and Magnecor Wires I got from JonB @ PartsRack

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks! And do I need a torque wrench?

 

[Doug Supercharged Vipers]

BUD -

With an accumulation of 15, 000 miles your on target for the plug & wire change. Since you'll already be there, ask the dealer for an estimate for the job.
The dealer or PartsRack can order you a set of Mopar Performance wires that are more than enough to keep your ignition system happy. Retain the factory: Champion RC12LYC spark plugs.

Regards,
Doug

 

[JonB]

I have had numerous owners call me, AMAZED at how much better their Viper runs with simple replacemnt of wires and plugs.
plugs 7500-10000 miles. Wires 12000-15000 miles, and SOONER if you have stainless performance headers, or you have OE wires on a 1992-1994.

 

[jcaspar1]

I put in a set of Mopar Blue wires and now have a crackling sound of the radio which I assume is ignition noise from the low resistance wires. Is there any cure for this? It is not terrible but I won't replace the front speakers if I cannot get rid of the noise.

Thanks.

 

[Snake Bitten]

Jeff,

Are you running the factory amp? I have replaced my amp with a fairly identical Apline 4 channel unit, converted the high level inputs (speaker wire) to low level inputs (RCA's) and then I was able to install an inline 75 ohm Ground Loop Isolator from Radio Shack ($15)...no noise at all from my Magnecor's...I don't recommend trying this if your factory amp uses the DIN plug for its inputs.

BUD,

I believe the torque specification for the Champions is 10 - 15 ft lbs...I just snug mine up and then 1/4 of a turn...seems to work well...check the gap prior to installation for 33 - 38...I think you will find the new plugs right out of the box to be gapped to 35, which seems to work well...

 

[garolittle]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jcaspar1:
I put in a set of Mopar Blue wires and now have a crackling sound of the radio which I assume is ignition noise from the low resistance wires. Is there any cure for this? It is not terrible but I won't replace the front speakers if I cannot get rid of the noise.

Thanks.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You mean the front "speakers" on your hood?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Do the plugs and wires yourself, total cost less than $80. The most difficult task is removing and reinstalling the heat shields. You'll need to remove the wiper arms (one nut each) and cowl trim panel (four screws) as well as the cowl air inlet (four screws).

After you pull the shields and BEFORE you remove the plugs, use some compressed air to blow the little bits of dirt and metal shavings out from around the plugs. You don't want that crap to fall into the cylinders. If you don't have a compressor you can use those little air cans from the computer stores.

When you put the shields back in, put a dab of oil around them so they slide in easier. If they are lined up properly they will tap in very easily. Also, put the same end in that came out.

Get Champion plugs at the local auto store.

Get Mopar wires from Chuck Tator. Tator's Dodge. 914-763-3136

 

[jcaspar1]

Removing the heat sheilds is not necessary for plugs/wires, at least it wasn't on my 97 GTS.

Gerald,
I have stock stereo system. I think the noise is due to the much lower resistance of the Mopar Performance wires 1K per foot which is much lower than the minimum specified by the shop manuel. Did you have this noise before you installed the noise filter?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Jeff, does your 97 have heat shields?

 

[Snake Bitten]

Jeff,

I did not have any noise over the speakers with the stock plug wires, but the second I put on the Magnecor's...in came the noise...

 

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

Stock plug wires are best for performance, per CDI. FYI ORECA motors used stock wires.

 

[SmokinV10]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder:
Stock plug wires are best for performance, per CDI. FYI ORECA motors used stock wires.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Wouldnt you say that stock wires are just adequate for performance? I would find it hard to imagine that a good set of Mopar Performance, Jacobs, Magnecore, MSD, etc would actually be worse than stock. But the definitely LOOK better over the nasty wimpy grey things the car comes with.

 

[MadMaxx]

Plug change doesn't need the heatsheild removed. However, removing the hard pipes (coolant lines) makes things easier.

MM

 

[KenH]

Bud,
On the air conditioner - are they finding actual defects each time you take it in? The reason I'm asking is that my air conditioner worked once in a while, but mostly did not work. I was also getting an intermittent front O2 sensor light for no good reason. Both problems were diagnosed (shotgunned) several times. This last time, when my new compressor came in for the air conditioning and they pulled the old one out, they found a ground wire which had been pinched under the compressor at the factory. The intermittent ground was causing all my problems. Once it was fixed, the air conditioners been working fine (left the old compressor in) and the O2 light stays off. Might be something to have checked out.

 

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
Wouldnt you say that stock wires are just adequate for performance? I would find it hard to imagine that a good set of Mopar Performance, Jacobs, Magnecore, MSD, etc would actually be worse than stock. But the definitely LOOK better over the nasty wimpy grey things the car comes with.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

CDI evaluated various plug wires to provide ORECA/DC with the best endurance performance motor package. Best performance was from the stock wires.

 

[viper spray]

New plugs and wires made a huge improvement on my car.

 

[BUD]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KenH:
Bud,
On the air conditioner - are they finding actual defects each time you take it in? The reason I'm asking is that my air conditioner worked once in a while, but mostly did not work. I was also getting an intermittent front O2 sensor light for no good reason. Both problems were diagnosed (shotgunned) several times. This last time, when my new compressor came in for the air conditioning and they pulled the old one out, they found a ground wire which had been pinched under the compressor at the factory. The intermittent ground was causing all my problems. Once it was fixed, the air conditioners been working fine (left the old compressor in) and the O2 light stays off. Might be something to have checked out.


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks. LOL, my o2 light is on, too. That would be a semi-funny coincidence.

 

[slaughterj]

Thanks for info on this, while we may get annoyed at recurring thread topics, they are useful as reminders for maintenance, and the info on the procedure was useful too. Per 2V ("2 Vipers") Chuck, I got my plug wires through Tator, and changed the plugs & wires this weekend, thought it was about time with nearly 27k on the car

 

[fast?]

are using the stock plugs better than using the champion platinum ones?

 

[slaughterj]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Chuck 98 RT/10:
Trent, consensus is to stay with stock plugs.

Slaughter, 27K??? You were getting close to the point of noticing the power drop. I noticed a power drop at 30K, which means it was probably down on power beforehand.


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not sure if it feels better or is in my mind, tried some spirited driving and seemed good though

Does that mean I should go dyno now?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

It's not in your mind. Prior to my plug/wire change the fastest I could go was between 145mph and 150mph. Now 175mph is no problem.

 

[J DAWG]

Now for the important ?
What colors are out there. Are the Mopars actually blue?
Are the magnecor red?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Trent, consensus is to stay with stock plugs.

Slaughter, 27K??? You were getting close to the point of noticing the power drop. I noticed a power drop at 30K, which means it was probably down on power beforehand.

 

[slaughterj]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by J SMITH:
Now for the important ?
What colors are out there. Are the Mopars actually blue?
Are the magnecor red?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

My Mopar Performance wires are blue, don't know about Magnecor...

 

[Snake Bitten]

Hey Doc...for "extreme posing" you need to go with the Magnecor's, they are red and look really cool under the hood...

(And for the rest of you all, please don't hurt me for this comment)

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Snake Bitten:
(And for the rest of you all, please don't hurt me for this comment)

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The preemptive strike saved you...this time.