Question about changing to a 180 thermostat

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When you change out the thermostat, are you able to reuse the intake plenum gasket?

I have one that I need to install, but wasn't sure what else it would require of me to do it. Advice?
 

Jack B

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You need the intake and thermostat gaskets. If you haven't removed an intake, it comes off clean/complete. The only trick are the two connectors on the coil pack and quick-connect for the fuel on the drivers frame rail.

If you remove the cowl trim and use a mirror you can see the connector tabs that have to be opened for the connector to be broken. If you haven't done it before , let me know, I will post a pic of the connectors and their release mechanism.
 

99 R/T 10

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Just remember, these connections are a "two stage" release. The locking mech. first(moves left to right on the connector), then press down on the release and pull out. It took me an hour just to figure this out on my own.
 
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You need the intake and thermostat gaskets. If you haven't removed an intake, it comes off clean/complete. The only trick are the two connectors on the coil pack and quick-connect for the fuel on the drivers frame rail.

If you remove the cowl trim and use a mirror you can see the connector tabs that have to be opened for the connector to be broken. If you haven't done it before , let me know, I will post a pic of the connectors and their release mechanism.


Please do post the pics..any help is apreciated. I don't think I have to remove the plenum completely off to change the thermostat do I? Since it's located up front, couldn't I just lift it up an access it from there? not sure..
thanks!
 

Marv S

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On the highway and,
On a cool day (maybe even a warm day) and,
With the rpms under 3000
it will run cooler with the 180.

Miss any one of those and it'll still go over 190 , right of center



On a track or in stop & go traffic it won't run any cooler with the 180 if that's the only change.

Have you guys seen any cooler running temp?
 

Jack B

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Here is the connector. You may want to inquire further, however, I believe you have to totally remove the intake to change the thermostat. Once you have it loose it only takes a couple of minutes to remove the connectors and fuel line.

I don't think you want to take the chance of damaging the intake surface by moving it on the heads . A thin wall socket and small diameter extension help in getting to the intake bolts. I used a 1/4" drive. Another reason to remove the intake is the fact that the old thermostat gasket is difficult to remove, even with the intake off.

96Coil_Pack_Connectors.jpg
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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The coolant needs to stay in the radiator long enough to sufficiently cool down. By removing the thermostat the flow will increase and the coolant may not spend enough time in the radiator. If you are set on doing something like this I would remove the guts of the thermostat first and try it like that for a while.

What’s the problem Adam? The motor is designed to operate at a certain temp.

If you’re trying to keep it cooler you need a bigger radiator.
 

joe117

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I don't know about that Chuck. I think the idea that water needs to spend more time in the radiator in order to cool down, is a fallacy.
It doesn't make the car run cooler by slowing down the water, in fact as long as there is always water in the radiator and water in the engine, speeding it up will make the engine run cooler.
The radiator will work better when there is a higher temperature differential between the water inside it and the cooling air.

Some stock car folks used to use a restrictor plate in order to keep the coolant from boiling. They thought they were slowing down the flow and giving it more time in the radiator.
The restrictor plates often did the job but it wasn't for the reason they thought. The restrictor plate kept the pressure from being pulled down by the water pump intake. The low pressure was what was causing the coolant to boil.

Any engine will run cooler with no thermostat than it will with a 180 thermostat.
No thermostat gives less restriction and thus more flow. More flow will always cause a cooler engine.

Even if the temp gauge says 190 or so, there will be small hot spots in the heads that are much hotter. The faster you flow the coolant the better the cooling in these little hot spots.
 

Fast Viper Dan

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The problem with removing the thermostat is the motor will take longer to warm up. I have drilled holes around the perimeter of the thermostat to help the flow a little. This however also slows the warm up. Chuck is right, if you want to run cooler temps you need a bigger radiator.
It seems some Vipers run hotter than others. Mine runs at 190-200 almost all the time. Others complain there's run 220-230. I am not sure why. My guess is there may be air trapped in the system
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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I wasn't married to the idea Joe. It was a logic I read many years ago so I just recommended trying without the guts of the thermo first.

Still, I would go with a larger radiator if I wanted to cool the motor.
 
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I have run cars before without the thermo and they seem to run cooler by the temp gauge, but that doesn't mean anything...
 
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