99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Chuck Tator, Daniel Lesser or Mark J at Woodhouse. I am building up a Gen II engine, but the crank is buggered up. I have a good Gen III crank. Are they interchangable and would this be a good upgrade?
TIA
TIA
Question for the smart people like..........
- Thread starter 99 R/T 10
- Start date
Simms
Enthusiast
I'm not one of those smart guys but I do know of Gen2 blocks running Gen3 cranks.
Fat man can tell you all about it.
Fat man can tell you all about it.
Yes, I almost did that. Yields 510 cu inches.
(That's what I was told anyway....
)
Actually spec'd out using some small block Chevy rods. Would need to "turn" the crank journals to accept the bowtie rods. I think the wrist pins would work but I don't remember for sure. I do remember the large selection of over the counter, quality rods in a large selection of lengths.
Could get much less expensive but top quality sm. blk chev. rods at the same length as "custom stroker" rods.
But without the "custom" price....
Good way to get some cubic inches....
Good luck...
(That's what I was told anyway....
)Actually spec'd out using some small block Chevy rods. Would need to "turn" the crank journals to accept the bowtie rods. I think the wrist pins would work but I don't remember for sure. I do remember the large selection of over the counter, quality rods in a large selection of lengths.
Could get much less expensive but top quality sm. blk chev. rods at the same length as "custom stroker" rods.
But without the "custom" price....
Good way to get some cubic inches....
Good luck...
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OP
OP
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Thanks for the info guys. I guess the stroke on the gen IIs are 3.88? What is the stroke on the Gen IIIs?
OP
OP
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Called JD, checking on something. BUT, wanted to ask if I do go with the Gen III crank, I have heard the SBC rods will bolt right up. Anybody know the truth to this? And if so, got a specific part number? If everything works out, looks like I will be builting a stroker motor with compression at 11:1.......... 
Ricketts
Enthusiast
Called JD, checking on something. BUT, wanted to ask if I do go with the Gen III crank, I have heard the SBC rods will bolt right up. Anybody know the truth to this? And if so, got a specific part number? If everything works out, looks like I will be builting a stroker motor with compression at 11:1..........
Ooooh ooooh I want one!!
It will work fine if it is a 05-06 crank with a reluctor ring in the center like a Gen-2. An 03-04 crank would require having the reluctor ring cut for the sensor, and a bit of modification to the sensor to move it in far enough to be read by the slightly smaller ring.
Also, you will have to see if the stock gen-2 rods/pistons will contact the counterweight or be above deck at TDC, and if so, you may need to change the rods and pistons to an aftermarket setup to overcome these [not a bad idea anyway, much better quality out there]
On that note, I do have a Gen-3 crank laying around that has one bad journal, but could be welded and repaired, offset ground, or ground down to smaller journal. It is an 03/04, but just happens to have a cut reluctor ring for the sensor already.
Also, you will have to see if the stock gen-2 rods/pistons will contact the counterweight or be above deck at TDC, and if so, you may need to change the rods and pistons to an aftermarket setup to overcome these [not a bad idea anyway, much better quality out there]
On that note, I do have a Gen-3 crank laying around that has one bad journal, but could be welded and repaired, offset ground, or ground down to smaller journal. It is an 03/04, but just happens to have a cut reluctor ring for the sensor already.
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OP
OP
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Hey Dan,
yeah that's what I was thinking too. I was told the SBC rods would be a great setup with the gen III crank and I am looking to have the pistons to come up to near zero deck, but it will depend on the legnth of the rod. I am still researching, but stock Gen II rods are 6.123" and I think I need 6.125".
Yes, I almost did that. Yields 510 cu inches.
(That's what I was told anyway....
Actually spec'd out using some small block Chevy rods. Would need to "turn" the crank journals to accept the bowtie rods. I think the wrist pins would work but I don't remember for sure. I do remember the large selection of over the counter, quality rods in a large selection of lengths.
Could get much less expensive but top quality sm. blk chev. rods at the same length as "custom stroker" rods.
But without the "custom" price....
Good way to get some cubic inches....
Good luck...
Called JD, checking on something. BUT, wanted to ask if I do go with the Gen III crank, I have heard the SBC rods will bolt right up. Anybody know the truth to this? And if so, got a specific part number? If everything works out, looks like I will be builting a stroker motor with compression at 11:1..........
Wow... What a great idea?
OP
OP
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Hey Treesnake,
Somehow I glossed over your post You get the credit
Somehow I glossed over your post
You get the credit Hey Treesnake,
Somehow I glossed over your post
No problem, I get "glossed over" alot....
Not looking for "credit". Just trying to save you some time and effort with some info that I had already spent time on....
I don't know why my original builder didn't use the Gen 3 crank. Especially after gathering the info and buying a Gen 3 crank????.
Unfortunately, that's just another of the problems caused by..
...I will look for original info I had on part #s etc and get back to you..
One of the things that I found interesting while researching rods, rod lengths, etc. You can order the same rod, from the same company but with diferent part numbers and diferent prices.
The rods listed under Viper were more expensive than the rods listed
under LS1. But when cross-referencing the specs, they were the exact same rod.
( I know that "Viper Tax" is nothing new to a lot of us....
)
One of the things that I found interesting while researching rods, rod lengths, etc. You can order the same rod, from the same company but with diferent part numbers and diferent prices.
The rods listed under Viper were more expensive than the rods listed
under LS1. But when cross-referencing the specs, they were the exact same rod.
( I know that "Viper Tax" is nothing new to a lot of us....
You may find out that is not always the case. Materials, options, and rod bolt types are commonly different, and this would NOT show up on most spec sheets.
You are absolutely right Dan.
Had to track down several different part #s until we finally found the
right part that would work. That's why I am trying to locate the numbers for 99RT10.
Unfortunately, I think the my original tuner has that info....
I have some files to check at home.
(BTW... Thanks again for the quick turnaround on the knock sensor mounts for my TT...
)
