Question on Auto Auctions... good/bad?

[BlackSnake]

Question on Auto Auctions...

I’m looking at a Viper that has gone through an auction process (no not E-BAY). Car has “clean” title, but the whole auction thing bothers me. Am I being too cautious???

Thanks.

 

[Y2K5SRT]

I can give you a second hand account: A local gentleman bought a GTS through an auction. Clean title and I believe a former driving school car. He had lots of problems, including brakes that were awful (burned them up). He took a loss on the car and was eager to be rid of it (his third Viper).

Of course, I am sure that there are many cars that are just fine. Still, I would wonder why a car went through auction rather than being sold outright by the selling dealer. I am assuming this is a dealer auction. If it is an estate auction, might be well worth bidding. Just be sure to try and get a history of the car and see if it has a valid warranty. If you can't get either one, just ask yourself if you are willing to pay the top bid for the car plus $10,000 or so if it needs a new engine. Pessimistic obviously, but better to err on the side of caution.

Let us know how it goes!

Chris

 

[BlackSnake]

An individual is currently selling this car (1996 GTS), but it went though an auction process back in 1997. After that, there seems to be a gap. For instance, it goes from 3K miles sold at auction to 15K miles registered in Oregon. Seems to me like there should be another entry for it between those two, unless it was purchased by a dealer (or something) and driven for 12K miles before being sold.

Note: The person selling the car has only had it for 6 months, but he is willing to have a Viper Tech certify the car prior to purchase--this offers some re-assurance.

Here's an excerpt from the carfax. Look fishy to anyone?


01/01/1997 California
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Registered as commercial vehicle
---------------------------

 

[Sean Roe]

The auction process does not change the condition of the car or mean anything. Dealers take slow moving, high cost and excess inventory to wholesale dealer auctions every day. The world's largest, which processes between 5,000 and 13,000 per week, is in Orlando. There are hundreds across the country.

If you're wanting to cover your bases before buying it, just have it checked out. If there's excess wear and tear, offer less or move on to a cleaner one.

The carfax wouldn't bother me. The dealer that bought it may have used it personally and driven it with an open title while it was in inventory. Do some research and see if the auction it was sold at was an insurance salvage auction or a regular one.

 

[BlackSnake]

Thanks. Anyone know how to tell what kind of Auction it was in? Where do I go to find that out?

 

[Sean Roe]

The Carfax reports are usually good for finding out a car has been totaled or if the odometer has been tampered with, but not much else. If the report is no more specific than the car was processed at an auction in the Pacific SW, that's too vague to be of value.

I'd have the car inspected by someone who knows Vipers inside and out and can spot work that is not original (I would do this on any used Viper), preferably on a lift. I had the unfortunate task of showing a guy who bought a black '99 RT/10 here locally this past week the non factory weld and putty work down the entire drivers side of the frame / floor pan and where the door surround was replaced. The dealer he bought it from didn't know it was damaged (the repair was a few years old) and the Carfax was clean.

 

[Jason-Middle Tennessee]

I agree with Sean, have the car checked out by a VIPER TECH only. If you can save a big chunk of cash on this purchase then buy it, if not find another source. Good luck and Merry Christmas

 

[Tom and Vipers]

Regarding wholesale car auctions:

1) First, a dealer ties HIS cash up keeping a used car on the lot, new ones are FINANCED, so unless he has a good used Viper business, he will most likely wholesale it out.

2) Some auctions are know for their quality, others for their junk. Occasionally you'll get a deal on a good car if it goes to a "junk" auction, however, don't hold your breath waiting for a Viper.

3) Manheim has a High Line auction twice a month during the warm months. Vipers go thru there, however, I haven't seen their sale prices. The NADA book probably doesn't mean much because they give a broad range of prices which don't really tell you much.

4) Most of the time, a Viper will not go thru in winter because they will take a beating, if they have the car during the winter, they will sit on it until summer or perhaps sell it in FL if they have the connection. Of course, if someone HAS TO SELL during the winter, you will get a deal.

5) Big drawback is that you have to be trolling the auctions to get the deal - you just can't go to an auction and get a deal. You're still stuck with TIME = MONEY problem.

Frankly, I would think that an individual selling a car might still be a good place to start because in some markets, if you're selling a car, you must eat it! Try buying one from Pittsburgh area and you should get a deal IMO.

 

[pauls]

Skipco in Oh just ran a Silver/Blue stripes 99 with 4,000 miles. Private party put it up because he couldn't sell locally. I quit at $47M, sold to local Exotic dealer for $52. He sold it for $59 that week.