Well, I finally got around to installing my HID setup after getting SOOO sick of the WAY to dim low-beams. Overall, it was an easy install-after I figured out placement. INCREDIBLE results with 6000K. Honestly, the lights look IDENTICAL to those of our Infinity G-35x. (which uses the same system as Audi, Nissan cars, Lexus, BMW, etc) Very crisp white, with a nice blue hue. The projector housings in the Viper are actually very good, and fit the HID bulbs perfectly. The housing also contain cut-offs, like HID projectors do, to avoid blinding. (though I dont know HOW you could ever blind someone with low beams in a stock Viper) Perhaps Dodge thought ahead on this issue, and they did intend to put HIDs in the projector housings later. Another curious feature of the projector housing is the fact that it has a removable rear plate, and it looks to have under it a D2S socket...? Almost like it was an HID setup ADAPTED to Halogen. I may look into this later.
Other than that, I did a little research on this subject too. It seems in the HID aftermarket, there are two types of systems out there. those that you plug the factory wiring harness right into the ballast, and those that you plug a whole new wiring harness in with a Relay, ground, positive, etc. From what people SAY, by plugging the ballast right into the factory harness, some cars will melt wiring.
Well, the Viper isnt one of them.
(not that I am surprised... some companies drum the fact that you NEED all that extra wiring to keep the load down......then in the next sentance say how much lower of a draw HIDs put on the system)
After looking at how these aftermarket systems are constructed, and then comparing it to the Viper's system, they are pretty much identical in construction. So, I did a test. I made my system as simple as possible, keeping the wiring down to a minimum. Factory plug connects directly to the Ballast, ballast connects to the bulb, done. finished. Stock 10A per side fuses left alone in the fuse box.
The Test:
After leaving the Viper in the garage for 5 hours straight, with the lights on and a battery tender to keep from killing the battery, I measured the temperature of all the wiring, fuses, etc and compared it to that of wiring around it, NOT involved in the HID system. The Bulbs were located OUTSIDE the headlight assembly, as not to heat up the suroundings.
The Results:
-The HID wiring compared to the surrounding wiring was only 2.5 degree F above the surrounding wiring.
-The stock 10A fuses were only 6 degrees F above the surrounding non-used fuses.
The control:
I pluged a stock halogen bulb into one side, and repeated the test
The results:
-The Wiring connected to the Halogen bulb was TEN degrees warmer than that of the surrounding wiring.
-The stock 10A fuses were THIRTY degrees warmer than that of the surrounding unused fuses
Conclusion: the stock wiring system in the Viper is very good. Independantly fused, relay controlled, with adequate gauge of wire used. It is more than sufficent to sustain powering of HID systems by itself, without any additional harnesses. The factory Halogen 55W bulbs are a larger load than the HID system.
Side Notes:
-Tests done with HELLA 35W Internal Ignitor Ballasts, the industry standard.
-Polarity of harness MUST be switched on the bulb connector before plug and
play.
-One thing you have to watch out for is not turning on your HID's while your battery voltage is under 10V. When the ignitor activates to start the arc, there is a bigger current draw- at low voltages, this is exaggerated. LOL, at $4 a pop in fuses every time you do this, you will soon learn not to do it! One other thing I suspect is that the same MAY occur during engine cranking if your battery is weak. (This is the reason factory HIDs are shut off by the body computer during cranking, and when the battery starts to go dead) Halogens dont have this problem because they just "dim out"... HID's cant. The arc ceases. When the arc shuts off, the ballast will try to ignite it again and again- pop goes the fuse(s).
-The arc is VERY similar to Arc Welding, is JUST as bright, and the same color. It was blinding my camera as you can see below. (it is VERY cool to look at a bulb with a welding helmet on, you can see the arc, and its differnt color temp layers)
Pictures:
Other than that, I did a little research on this subject too. It seems in the HID aftermarket, there are two types of systems out there. those that you plug the factory wiring harness right into the ballast, and those that you plug a whole new wiring harness in with a Relay, ground, positive, etc. From what people SAY, by plugging the ballast right into the factory harness, some cars will melt wiring.
Well, the Viper isnt one of them.
(not that I am surprised... some companies drum the fact that you NEED all that extra wiring to keep the load down......then in the next sentance say how much lower of a draw HIDs put on the system)
After looking at how these aftermarket systems are constructed, and then comparing it to the Viper's system, they are pretty much identical in construction. So, I did a test. I made my system as simple as possible, keeping the wiring down to a minimum. Factory plug connects directly to the Ballast, ballast connects to the bulb, done. finished. Stock 10A per side fuses left alone in the fuse box.
The Test:
After leaving the Viper in the garage for 5 hours straight, with the lights on and a battery tender to keep from killing the battery, I measured the temperature of all the wiring, fuses, etc and compared it to that of wiring around it, NOT involved in the HID system. The Bulbs were located OUTSIDE the headlight assembly, as not to heat up the suroundings.
The Results:
-The HID wiring compared to the surrounding wiring was only 2.5 degree F above the surrounding wiring.
-The stock 10A fuses were only 6 degrees F above the surrounding non-used fuses.
The control:
I pluged a stock halogen bulb into one side, and repeated the test
The results:
-The Wiring connected to the Halogen bulb was TEN degrees warmer than that of the surrounding wiring.
-The stock 10A fuses were THIRTY degrees warmer than that of the surrounding unused fuses
Conclusion: the stock wiring system in the Viper is very good. Independantly fused, relay controlled, with adequate gauge of wire used. It is more than sufficent to sustain powering of HID systems by itself, without any additional harnesses. The factory Halogen 55W bulbs are a larger load than the HID system.
Side Notes:
-Tests done with HELLA 35W Internal Ignitor Ballasts, the industry standard.
-Polarity of harness MUST be switched on the bulb connector before plug and
play.
-One thing you have to watch out for is not turning on your HID's while your battery voltage is under 10V. When the ignitor activates to start the arc, there is a bigger current draw- at low voltages, this is exaggerated. LOL, at $4 a pop in fuses every time you do this, you will soon learn not to do it! One other thing I suspect is that the same MAY occur during engine cranking if your battery is weak. (This is the reason factory HIDs are shut off by the body computer during cranking, and when the battery starts to go dead) Halogens dont have this problem because they just "dim out"... HID's cant. The arc ceases. When the arc shuts off, the ballast will try to ignite it again and again- pop goes the fuse(s).
-The arc is VERY similar to Arc Welding, is JUST as bright, and the same color. It was blinding my camera as you can see below. (it is VERY cool to look at a bulb with a welding helmet on, you can see the arc, and its differnt color temp layers)
Pictures:
