Rear Toe link end same as front Tie Rod?

Discussion in 'RT/10 and GTS Discussions' started by lane_viper, Jun 11, 2019.

  1. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

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    I think I need new toe links, and was wondering if the end is the same part as the front Tie rod.

    Does anyone know?

    cost is like $50 vs $200. I know I would only be replacing the end, but the middle looks fine.

    Thanks guys in advance.
     
  2. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

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    I think I will order a couple and see. If they don't work, I will use them on the front.

    I will update you guys with my finding.
     
  3. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

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    So I can confirm, the front tie rods and the rear toe link tie rod ends are the same.
     
  4. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

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    So after finding out the front tie rods fit the back, I'm thinking the toe link is nothing more than the front steering link, with the screw end screwed into a brace instead of the steering rack.

    [​IMG]

    Viper part, with boot covering joint

    [​IMG]

    Steering link assembly.

    The brace is simply a steel rod that bolts to the car frame and has threads the assembly threads into.

    I ordered this to test:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/T2302-Dodge-Viper-2-Premium-Inner-Tie-Rods-92-02/151072980616_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=0167a733d8a5476a8289be6485767fac&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=161056608135&itm=151072980616&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

    Only thing I will be missing is a rubber boot to cover the joint, which I think I can find one to fit.

    So far for the rear toe link replacement I've spent $80 total for both sides.

    Cheapest I've found for Part # 4763159AC is around $200 for each side.

    https://parts.lithiagrantspass.com/oem-parts/mopar-link-4763159ac

    I will update you guys with the result.
     
  5. MoparMap

    MoparMap VCA National President

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    Wow, that's a nice find! I always kinda wondered how the back worked when looking at it. That paints a better picture.
     
  6. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

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    Ok so I installed these today.

    Here's what I did. You will need a 1 5/16 open ended wrench to loosen the old tie rods.

    Here's what I ordered:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-INNER-TIE-ROD-END-SET-FORD-DODGE-VIPER-1992-2002/231072021585?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

    A rubber boot was needed to cover and protect the joint, and keep the grease in, so I improvised with a bicycle tire inner tube and a couple of zip ties.

    [​IMG]

    I cut a section of the inner tube. I stretched one end over the wide socket section and left the other end on the shaft. There were grooves in the shaft that was a good place to fit the zip ties.

    [​IMG]

    Now all thats left is to install them.

    I removed the end from the wheel hub, then loosened the socket end. The shaft came out with the tie rod end attached. I then measured the length to make sure the new one goes in the same.

    Here is the old one vs the new ones I made.

    [​IMG]

    Here's what it looks like with the shaft removed. It simply screws off, and you screw the new one on the shaft that bolts to the body.

    [​IMG]

    Once everything is bolted up:

    [​IMG]

    Summary:

    I bought front tie rod ends on Rock Auto. They range in price, but mine were Spicer and were about $10 each. $20
    I bought the Steering tie rod assembly for $50 (link above)
    Replacement bicycle inner tube 27" road bike. $10

    All in $80 + my time to install.

    As posted in previous posts, cheapest I found new ones was $200 each Mopar Part # 4763159AC.

    I saved about $320+ on these.

    You will prob need an alignment as this is the toe adjustment for the rear, unless you are confident that your measuring got the shaft the exact same length as before.

    After test driving it made a world of difference. My 96 GTS had what seemed a lot of driveline lash on acceleration, breaking, and deceleration and the rear would "unsettle" and shift a little when you let off the gas. It also had some axle popping which I assumed was the axle splines or the universal joints. That is now gone! I could physically move the rear passenger tire when the rear was jacked up, so I knew either the toe link, or the joint on the shaft was shot. It moved about 1/8th of an inch. The Car drives better that it ever has since I bought it last year. I can't believe the difference.

    I wanted to share this with you guys to offer an alternative to the $400 price of the toe link shaft, and offer that virtually the same parts that were used on the front steering rack, were used in the rear toe assembly.

    Let me know if you guys have any questions.

    Cheers.

    Lane
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
  7. MoparMap

    MoparMap VCA National President

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    Excellent job! The only thing I could see being any different from stock would be that you might have to cut and reattach the zip tie on the rod section of the toe link whenever you adjust it. I think the factory one will slide on the shaft a bit so that you can rotate the shaft without having to take the tie rod loose at the knuckle, but that's also kind of a set it once and forget it thing, so not a major issue at all. Very creative!
     

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