Removing Spark Plugs?

[HOdbleFman]

Do you need to remove those shields around the spark plugs in order to get the spark plug socket over the spark plug? Do they just pull out or do you need a small socket that will reach in and get to the plugs?

 

[VIPR GTS]

You do not remove the shield, the plugs generally stay inside of the spark plug socket and lift out with the socket

 

[tommygun]

no you do not, it just looks that way, if you have a Snap-On or Mac swivel socket permanently attached to an extension it will not work, but a standard 5/8" spark plug socket it will work just fine.

 

[JimT 99RT]

Nothing special is needed to change the plugs. The heater air cover is easy to remove to gain access on the passenger side plugs if needed. Also you may have to take off the wire loom on the drivers valve cover to get enough room to remove the inner plug. It’s easier than on a lot of other newer vehicles.

Make sure you use compressed air to blow the dirt out from around the plug and shield before you remove the plug.

 

[01bee]

Very easy, under and hour for all ten, my first time.

 

[MaxedGTS]

Very easy. use a rubber hose to thread them in and then a socket wrench.

 

[Steve-Indy]

I like to use a little CopperSlip antiseize on the new threads, starting about two grooves back from the tip...torque to 20 lb-ft once you are SURE that plug NOT crossthreaded...noting that folks have reported finding an occasional crossthreaded OEM plug from the get-go !!!...NICE to have a Snap-on Back-tap Metric(14mm) Spark Plug Thread Chaser in toolbox JUST in case (part #SPHR1).

 

[Jack B]

If you use the anti-seize you should back off the torque, especially in aluminum. The copper anti-seize reduces the rotational friction and exerts greater vertical force on the threads for the same torque value, 17-18 lbs is safer with the anti-seize. The copper anti-seize does work great.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Good point...THANKS, Jack B.