roe crank pin kit

[ILLSMOQ]

So I bought the Roe crank pin kit. Looking at it, I see it comes with roll pins rather than solid steel pins. I was thinking I might skip the roll pins and use steel rod instead. Anyone have any opinions about this? Doug Levin sugested I might use drill rod as an alternative

 

[plumcrazy]

id say if doug agree's, that good enough for me.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

how about lock tight on the crank snout before the balancer is pressed on.... yes or no?

 

[plumcrazy]

i did that. but i also broke the snout off shortly after...lol

(nothing to do with lock tite, just a stupid joke)

 

[Jim Wilson]

how about lock tight on the crank snout before the balancer is pressed on.... yes or no?

NO! Use a light coat of anti-seize lube.

 

[kcobean]

The only thing I'd be concerned about using a solid pin is expansion. Perhaps the roll-pin expands inwards when it gets hot, whereas a solid pin is going to expand outwards and stress the balancer and crank. I'm no thermo-dynamic engineer, so I could be way off base. Those little roll-pins are pretty sturdy though, I can't see them being too weak to do the job.

An important note is that the shear force applied to the pin is longitudinal, not perpendicular to the length of the pin. If you look how the holes are drilled, the hole is half-way in the balancer, half-way in the crank. I can't imagine the force it would take to make one of those pins fail longitudinally like that.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

NO! Use a light coat of anti-seize lube.

really? what is the theory behind that?

 

[ILLSMOQ]

The only thing I'd be concerned about using a solid pin is expansion. ...note is that the shear force applied to the pin is longitudinal, not perpendicular to the length of the pin. If you look how the holes are drilled, the hole is half-way in the balancer, half-way in the crank. I can't imagine the force it would take to make one of those pins fail longitudinally like that.

yeah, it would probably take a lot of pressure to squeaze thosee roll pins...solid pins may be over kill...but I'm no engineer either and I've got some time on my hands so I thought I'd ask.

 

[kcobean]

really? what is the theory behind that?

I wouldn't use either. The damper is friction-fit onto the crank. If you're installing a pin kit, it probably wouldn't matter, but I wouldn't want to lubricate the friction surface that's supposed to be holding the damper on.

You want to use loctite on the bolt, but not the mating surface between the damper and the crank...you want to be able to get that sucker off once the bolt is out. The shop manual calls for the damper being installed "dry".

And a side note, the damper is a controlled distro part. If you buy one new from a dealer, you have to provide the VIN for your car. Not sure why.

 

[plumcrazy]

im actually assuming he's installing a better dampner, not the OE part

 

[dave6666]

really? what is the theory behind that?

The removeability without a huge puller that won't fit under the hood theory.

Loctite would offer no assurance against the dampener spinning anyway. It would be more for creeping longitudinally due to vibration.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

Yeah it's an ATI damper

Dave that makes a lot of sense.

 

[kcobean]

im actually assuming he's installing a better dampner, not the OE part

Just out of curiosity, what is it that makes the ATI damper better?

 

[ILLSMOQ]

Just out of curiosity, what is it that makes the ATI damper better?

The stock cast 3 spoke dampers are prone to cracking....especially in a super charged application which I have.


ATI - Super Damper® Harmonic Dampers

 

[ILLSMOQ]

there are a few threads on this...here is a good one

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-g...caution-paxton-pin-kits-i-got-lucky-pics.html

 

[kcobean]

Good info. Thanks!

 

[GR8_ASP]

I have both the Paxton and Roe pin kits installed. Initially the Paxton alone. I calculated the added rotational resistance with the Paxton kit (this is 3 years ago so it is all based on memory). I think it was somewhere around 25% increase. That was with 1/8" solid pins. The Roe is larger diameter roll pins. The difference is not all that great, but the Roe does have higher overall strength.

As to the expansion issue it is not a factor. A steel pin in a steel crankshaft will have the exact same rate of expansion.

The most important aspect is to drill the hole straight and not at an angle as AB did. His issue was installation related. If it is not straight removal of the damper will be damn difficult, if not impossible.

 

[plumcrazy]

I agree, when i drilled mine, i put the damper on a drill press and drill the first part of it that way. then used those holes as a guide to drill the crank (in the car) and it came out perfect. it took time though to get it set right.

 

[Jim Wilson]

really? what is the theory behind that?

I thought you were using an ATI damper. Knowing Doug, I figured if he recommended a pin kit, then you are probably using an ATI damper since that's what he uses.

It's no theory. It's straight out of the ATI installation instructions....."It is highly recommended that you use anti-seize lubricant on the crankshaft before the hub installation."

As Plum mentioned.....use a drill press.

Good luck!

 

[Jim Wilson]

Oops, Sorry I just realized that I didn't answer your question.

If you don't use the anti seize it will be impossible (or extremely difficult) to install the hub, even though you've heated the hub to thermally expand it prior to bolting it into place.