Shift light...do you have it?

ElDiablo Viper

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I'm looking to add a shift light to my car. Do you have it? How long did it take you to install? Where did you get it? Do you have any pic's?

Thanks. I need to have it since I'm racing all of those 800HP Supras and it is getting to me.
 

Mike Brunton

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Thanks KingGTS! I havent been at the office since before the holiday but I figure you got my email - can't wait to hear your feedback when you get the sucker
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ElDiablo, I will email ya tomorrow from work - I think I can hook you up with something you'd like.
 
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ElDiablo Viper

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mike Brunton:

ElDiablo, I will email ya tomorrow from work - I think I can hook you up with something you'd like.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks!
 

Jack B

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I have the Autometer #5330 light and the #5310 rpm trigger module. The cost from Summit Racing was $115. Once you receive the module you must send it back to Autometer and have them modify it for a 10 cylinder. There is no charge for that conversion. The last item you need is the pill kit. The kit you want is the 5355. It contains five pills, the first pill is 5000 and the last pill is 5800. If you are running N2O the correct pill kit would be #5354 for a shift point of 4600 rpm's.

I picked up switched power from the fuse #1 (drivers side engine compartment) via a Littel Fuse add-a-fuse. The tach output is picked up in the rear-most of the three harnesses right below the fuse block. Take those two wires (tach/switched 12V) into the cabin and pick up your ground off of the dash frame. The three go to the module.An attached cable goes from the module to the light. Mount the light in the center of the wheel with some Velcro. Mount the module under the dash.

I would say the most it would take is 2-3 hours.
 

Mike Brunton

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Rick,

I have talked to the guy that makes the Harlan unit a few times - good guy and he knows his stuff.

I was looking for something a little more unique and I couldn't find it, so I built it instead. The shift light I made consists of an anodized aluminum housing with either a stainless braided or plain black cable. 3 wire hookup (switched power, ground, tach signal), and it's really small compared to most lights (about 1.75" long and 3/4" across).

Really the differences I put in are it works with 1 to 15 cylinder engines without any pills (yeah I know, nobody has a 15 cylinder or a 7 cylinder, etc). It can operate 2 lights, so you can set up "shift soon" and "Shift now" lights. It can be set that the light comes on below certain RPM's for example if you want to avoid bogging the engine, you could have one of the lights come on if you're RPM's are below 2000, say. I also set it up to work in 50RPM increments instead of 100 so I could get a little finer control.

Basically, a shift light will work or it won't. A Harlan, Autometer, or any other light will work and do what it's supposed to. What sets them apart is the price, features, and looks. I was more interested in features and looks for my light than the Harlan or Autometer units offered, and the Autometer I wanted was $199, so like I said I started making 'em myself
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