Small Oil Leak Help Plz

[DrTaco]

Hey all,

Car is tucked away for the winter in its storage bubble, but when I was messing around in the garage today I noticed a small leak located under/near the passenger wheel. The leak was about the size of a half a shotglass and located behind the wheel. Checked around the wheel well and didn't notice any drips or streaks, so it must be coming from somewhere under the car or dripping down from the engine bay and behind the wheel well lining. Hard to work on while in the bubble, so just looking for anyone who may have an idea on where to start. Got her in Sept and this is my first "issue". Car is a 96 and has 18000mi.

Thanks,
Mark

*********Simple problem found and corrected. Thanks for the help everyone*******

 

[Dom426h]

For 96 :
-Oil pan gasket,(was updated with a new gasket in 1997.5)
-Oil pan screws,(some go through)
-Oil pan (pores in the casting)
-Timing cover gasket,
-Oil switch(dummy light sensor)

Are all common leak points. The only way to know for sure is to get her in the air and trace it. Period

If she is stored for winter leave it be and just be sure to get her on a lift after awaking from hibernation.

 

[DrTaco]

Thanks Dom,

That's what I was looking for.

 

[MADMAX]

Oil cooler hoses are also a known leak-point caused by the SS brade rubbing breaking and puncturing the inner hose.
The oli filter and housing are situated in the same area too.
That is one significantly upgraded Snake - Hope you get it sorted - 96 GTS are the best.
Good luck.

 

[DrumrBoy]

As stated, no worries leaving it until you pull it out of the bubble. Good luck tracing it, hopefully its something immediately evident and easy to fix.

BTW, what do you tune it with....i.e. what PCM do you use?

 

[DrTaco]

Thanks again guys, hopefully something simple like an oil pan bolt...just driving me nuts that I can't figure it out right now. Drumr, I have a VEC on it. But, it's currently zeroed out. I just got her in Sept, so I will be taking her to the dyno in the spring to get a proper tune made. Car was modified by Arrow and is making 555hp as she lies now.

 

[Jack B]

Hey all,

Car is tucked away for the winter in it's storage bubble, but when I was messing around in the garage today I noticed a small leak located under/near the passenger wheel. The leak was about the size of a half a shotglass and located behind the wheel. Checked around the wheel well and didn't notice any drips or streaks, so it must be coming from somewhere under the car or dripping down from the engine bay and behind the wheel well lining. Hard to work on while in the bubble, so just looking for anyone who may have an idea on where to start. Got her in Sept and this is my first "issue". Car is a 96 and has 18000mi.

Thanks,
Mark

Is it directly behind (in-line) with the tire?

 

[DrTaco]

Jack, yes it is. Like I said above, no leaks/streaks in the actual wheel well...so it's either coming from underneath the car and traveling to pool there, or it's coming from behind the wheel well lining (closest to pass seat). U have some thoughts?

 

[DrTaco]

:sigh: haha, not my finest hour and this thread can now be closed. Finally got on my back tonight to clean up the leak and try and trace it upwards. Turns out I failed to follow the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) Principle. Once I got close I realized it was dirty coolant and not oil. Traced it upwards and it was coming from a hose clamp that had backed its way out a bit, causing the coolant to drip down and follow a path back behind the wheel well lining and end up pooled where it landed. Thanks again for all the help and very grateful for my easy fix.

 

[AZTVR]

Traced it upwards and it was coming from a hose clamp that had backed its way out a bit, causing the coolant to drip down and follow a path back behind the wheel well lining and end up pooled where it landed.

Most likely you found one of the heater hoses at the heater control valve backed off, or clamp just loose ?

The OEM crimp-on clamps are notorious on the Gen II for loosening up and allowing the hose to back off. Everyone should check theirs evert year or two, and I'd suggest replacing them with worm drive clamps. I had fixed the one that backed off several years ago when it was pointed out to me at my first Viper Days tech inspection; and then forgot about it. Then earlier this year I found the other one on the valve had backed off. The hose doesn't stick or bond to the plastic pipe over the years like hoses do on metal pipes, and it tends to slip off when the crimp-on clamps loose a little tension after many thermal cycles.