Thoughts on this Gen II GTS

StumpDDS

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Hey everyone! I had a 2003 SRT10 a couple years ago and traded it in for a 2015 Corvette Z06 earlier this year. I really miss the visceral driving experience the Viper gave me. And quite frankly I just do not get the emotions driving the Vette that I once had when I drove the Gen III. Not to mention the Gen II was the ultimate dream car for me for many many years. I want to get back into the Viper community and am looking for a Gen II or Gen V as those have the body lines that are just timeless. Prices definitely push me more towards Gen II as I can find some about $50k cheaper than the least expensive Gen V on Auto Trader or Car Gurus.

I look on my local exotic dealership quite frequently and as of last week, nothing. Then I see this today. What are your thoughts on it? Good price for the miles? I've watched Cody's Viper buyer's guide on YouTube as well as a few others. Anything I should look for in particular? I'm scheduling a test drive either way just to see how it feels.

https://www.sweetcars.com/detail/?carid=13068

Thanks!
 

99RT10GTS

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If clean title, really good deal if you can get it for $58K. 2000 has no ABS, no forged motor. So keep that in mind. Brakes **** balls on the Gen 1/2s
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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If clean title, really good deal if you can get it for $58K. 2000 has no ABS, no forged motor. So keep that in mind. Brakes **** balls on the Gen 1/2s
Yeah my Gen III had ABS only. And I’d probably change out the brakes for some new ones right off the bat. Don’t plan on tracking or anything so I don’t plan on heavy braking but you never know what can happen on the streets.
You might want to give me a call tomorrow. 317 402 9013

The car looks very familiar.
Oh boy. Not sure why but this gives me weird vibes like there’s an issue I should be aware of.
 

Steve-Indy

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I would not worry about anything special. I placed a call to a friend who MAY have been owner #2 just to conform car's identity and, therefore my recollections. I expect to hear from him today.
 

TEALLIFE

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looks solid, decent deal at high 50s low 60s.

Not sure why everyone has issues with brakes on gen 2s. They are just fine for the street. Aside from not having ABS, they have no issue stopping the car with new rotors and good pads.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Friend confirmed that this is the car that I know.

Update: Good to speak with you, Sir.
Good chatting yesterday good sir. I spoke with the dealer to setup a test drive (tomorrow afternoon) and he actually confirmed with me that the previous owner had owned it since 2002ish and was a former engineer. And they were only getting rid of it cause him and his wife were getting older and having trouble getting in and out.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I have another listing I'm interested in that is the ideal spec I want and is the first Viper I saw in my life. I was with my dad at the 1996 Indy 500 so the blue with white stripes holds a special place in my heart. Plus it has the stock 708 cam. I'm just not sure if an extra $20k is worth it based on color. What are your thoughts?

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inven...d678&zip=46814#listing=350229764/NONE/DEFAULT
 

TEALLIFE

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Good chatting yesterday good sir. I spoke with the dealer to setup a test drive (tomorrow afternoon) and he actually confirmed with me that the previous owner had owned it since 2002ish and was a former engineer. And they were only getting rid of it cause him and his wife were getting older and having trouble getting in and out.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I have another listing I'm interested in that is the ideal spec I want and is the first Viper I saw in my life. I was with my dad at the 1996 Indy 500 so the blue with white stripes holds a special place in my heart. Plus it has the stock 708 cam. I'm just not sure if an extra $20k is worth it based on color. What are your thoughts?

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inven...d678&zip=46814#listing=350229764/NONE/DEFAULT
i'd pay 20k NOT to have a B/W car lol

But that's just me.
 

GTS Dean

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At COTA in June, I pulled up to the grid 5 times for runs. Two times, the grid lady came over, leaned in and said 'this is the most gorgeous color blue. It is just fabulous in the sunlight!'

In the paddock, a guy driving a pearl white Ferrari 812 pitted a few spaces over walked over while I was draining my catch can and had very similar high compliments on the color. For me - it's any color but red, or yellow.
 

ninetyninegts

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The Viper is a passion car, don't let money be the reason you settle for less. In ten years, you will not remember the price difference.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Just left the dealership. Car is immaculate. Paint is 9/10. Window dates match. Plug wire dates match and are in good condition. No door sag. No paint bubbles by door sills. Viper lettering is very slightly faded on brakes but not yellowed at all. Power steering pulley looks like it’s been swapped out for a metal one instead of plastic. Interior is perfect. Tires are brand new.

Issues: Both fog lights are broken but I may just black those out. Rear end links are torn but mechanic that inspected the car said those are easy to replace. Right rear rim clear coat peeling just slightly (it’s a 23 year old car that’s been driven so I’m not concerned).

I’m seriously thinking about purchasing. I’m going to take it on a test drive tomorrow. Price is $61,900 on consignment. And they’ll give me $57,000 for my Z06 since Carfax shows two front end collisions (before I purchased it) and people don’t like seeing that on a Carfax for these types of vehicles. Owner of Viper had it since 2002 and loved it so I may ask if he’ll take $61,000. Maybe I won’t since him and his wife loved cruising in it.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Also forgot to mention another issue. The rear glass hatch doesn’t stay open because the struts are bad and need replaced.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Drove the car. It rides surprisingly well! Didn’t feel much different than my 2015 z06 in terms of road feel and suspension. Clutch felt good and seats are really comfortable. Dealer said they’d take $61k for it and give me $58k for mine. It’s all stock and very well taken care of.

What does everyone think?
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Here are a couple more pics that I took.
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Goggles Pizano

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That's $3k difference. Go back with $1.5k cash and title and paperwork for the vette and tell them you will split the difference and whip out the $1.5k cash and drive away.

Put $500 in your other pocket if you really want it. Hell you can bring your wife or get someone to pretend to be your wife to tell them we are not paying more.
 

Steve-Indy

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Keep this thought...while you and the dealer are diddling each other over a couple of grand, someone may show up and buy it as there are not a lot of solid, 1-2 owner, no-stories Vipers on the market (let alone near you) whose history is both known and verifiable.

Best of luck whatever you decide.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Keep this thought...while you and the dealer are diddling each other over a couple of grand, someone may show up and buy it as there are not a lot of solid, 1-2 owner, no-stories Vipers on the market (let alone near you) whose history is both known and verifiable.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

I sent the gentleman I’ve been working with a text to tell him to get the paperwork going when he gets in tomorrow. So tomorrow I’ll be back in the club!

I do know from experience that Vipers do not last long on their lot (there are other interested parties for this car). He was also talking to me about the owner being an engineer and being extremely particular and picky with his Viper. So I know things were well taken care of. I’d rather pay the extra for that piece of mind alone.
 

TEALLIFE

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Congrats! You'll want to change those ignition parts out even if they look like they're in good shape and date code correct.

Looks like a perfect car.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Congrats! You'll want to change those ignition parts out even if they look like they're in good shape and date code correct.

Looks like a perfect car.

Thanks! It drives amazingly, and surprisingly rides a little nicer than the 2015 Z06 did. Suspension feels great. Already have new OEM rear hatch struts on the way from Parts Rack. And have planned a new power steering pulley and bracket, new plugs/wires and IPSCO short throw in the future. Updated KN filters and smooth tubes on the way too. Also on the list is either new rotors or the big brake kit. Belanger headers and exhaust further down the road. And seats are so comfortable!
 

TEALLIFE

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Thanks! It drives amazingly, and surprisingly rides a little nicer than the 2015 Z06 did. Suspension feels great. Already have new OEM rear hatch struts on the way from Parts Rack. And have planned a new power steering pulley and bracket, new plugs/wires and IPSCO short throw in the future. Updated KN filters and smooth tubes on the way too. Also on the list is either new rotors or the big brake kit. Belanger headers and exhaust further down the road. And seats are so comfortable!
Mine felt great (red 99 with 12k miles and all original parts including spark plugs lol) as well...it felt even better when i changed all that. Even better once i replaced the old shocks.

Unless youre pushing really hard or tracking, just go with new aftermarket (oem style) rotors and "better" pads.

I'd also do high flow cats if it doesnt have it already as they can clog in horrific fashion and new OEM upstream 02 sensors.

Take a peak at the sides of the radiator...assuming it's OEM you're likely going to find some coolant remains on the sides. I'd get it recored or get a howe aluminum one and new silicone hoses. Water pump is worth doing as well (with the metal impeller replacement).

While youre doing the PS pump, do the belt/tensioner/idler. Super easy and super cheap.

I found the shift lowering kit to be close enough to a short shifter for me and super easy to do. Definitely get the skip shift eliminator if it doesnt have one.

Motor Mounts and Trans mounts are probably shot, so put them on the list too.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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Mine felt great (red 99 with 12k miles and all original parts including spark plugs lol) as well...it felt even better when i changed all that. Even better once i replaced the old shocks.

Unless youre pushing really hard or tracking, just go with new aftermarket (oem style) rotors and "better" pads.

I'd also do high flow cats if it doesnt have it already as they can clog in horrific fashion and new OEM upstream 02 sensors.

Take a peak at the sides of the radiator...assuming it's OEM you're likely going to find some coolant remains on the sides. I'd get it recored or get a howe aluminum one and new silicone hoses. Water pump is worth doing as well (with the metal impeller replacement).

While youre doing the PS pump, do the belt/tensioner/idler. Super easy and super cheap.

I found the shift lowering kit to be close enough to a short shifter for me and super easy to do. Definitely get the skip shift eliminator if it doesnt have one.

Motor Mounts and Trans mounts are probably shot, so put them on the list too.
I was thinking that since I won't track it at all and it'll just be for cruising and some spirited driving here and there that I won't really need the big brake kit. Was just thinking of getting some slotted rotors and better pads.

High flow cat are in the works with the headers and exhaust.

Updated radiator and silicone hoses might not be a bad idea. If I can find a water pump I'll do that too, lol.

Hmmm I didn't really think of new motor and trans mounts. It is a 24 year old car so that wouldn't be a bad idea too.

I want this car to last a really long time and be able to put lots of miles on it.
 

TEALLIFE

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I was thinking that since I won't track it at all and it'll just be for cruising and some spirited driving here and there that I won't really need the big brake kit. Was just thinking of getting some slotted rotors and better pads.

High flow cat are in the works with the headers and exhaust.

Updated radiator and silicone hoses might not be a bad idea. If I can find a water pump I'll do that too, lol.

Hmmm I didn't really think of new motor and trans mounts. It is a 24 year old car so that wouldn't be a bad idea too.

I want this car to last a really long time and be able to put lots of miles on it.
sounds almost (and looks almost) exactly like mine. I did most of those as soon as I got it and the rest within 6 months or so. It's just a good peace of mind. Havik should have water pumps.

I'd say skip slotted rotors as well. no need, just more likely to crack. I think i got centrix or bendix rotors for about 50 bucks a piece. Works perfectly with EBC pads for the street. Better than stock and plenty powerful for the street.
 
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StumpDDS

StumpDDS

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sounds almost (and looks almost) exactly like mine. I did most of those as soon as I got it and the rest within 6 months or so. It's just a good peace of mind. Havik should have water pumps.

I'd say skip slotted rotors as well. no need, just more likely to crack. I think i got centrix or bendix rotors for about 50 bucks a piece. Works perfectly with EBC pads for the street. Better than stock and plenty powerful for the street.

Would you also recommend changing out the alternator and water pump pulleys too since I'll be changing out the other pulleys anyways?
 

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