What to use to Wax Viper?

pocketAA

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Guys,
What applicator do you use to wax your viper (100% cotton towel, orbitor, other method)? I got the 3 step Meguiars Deep Crystal System Polish for my black viper and wonder if anyone else ever used this and what they thought of it.

Brian
 

kcobean

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I like the applicators available from DF Towels. I use them on my show car and they're great. Of course, a Porter-Cable orbital with appropriate pads is 10x faster and just as effective, but I'm a 'do it by hand' kinda guy.
 

MoparMan

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pocketAA - I use standard bonnets with my Craftsman orbital buffer and then buff off the wax with a microfiber towel.

I buffed out the Viper with the Meguires Deep Crystal System (used their products #1 & #2) then topped it off with Dupont's new wax.
 

Jeff Torrey

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Guys,
What applicator do you use to wax your viper (100% cotton towel, orbitor, other method)? I got the 3 step Meguiars Deep Crystal System Polish for my black viper and wonder if anyone else ever used this and what they thought of it.

Brian

With the Meguir's 3 step your going to want an orbital.

Wax can be done by hand.

Terry Cloth on and off followed up with a Microfiber towel.
 

sshorty

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Orbital is the best way to go....check out Griot's Garage, they have some great products, as they are all tested first. I do most waxing by hand with a 100% cotton applicator pad, but the orbital gives you an easy and even application of the wax..I would then use a microfiber towel available from most detail supply companies to remove the wax...if you want me to get you one or a pack of 3, let me know. I get them wholesale. The Meguiar's stuff is good, but Griot's stuff is better....check out their site online. I also carry some great waxes, polishes and quick waxes as well...if you have any questions just ask.
mike
 
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pocketAA

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I was reading some posts about not waxing in a circular motion because it brings out the swirl marks more, is there any truth to that? It is a black car which the previous owner kept in absolute beautiful shape, I just do not want to do anything to reverse that fortune. Also, there is a small scratch near the driver's side door on the side sill. When I run my finger over the scratch I cannot feel any kind of indentation...it seems fairly minor, what could I use to get it out? I tried wax but it did not work.

Thanks,
 

sshorty

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I was reading some posts about not waxing in a circular motion because it brings out the swirl marks more, is there any truth to that? It is a black car which the previous owner kept in absolute beautiful shape, I just do not want to do anything to reverse that fortune. Also, there is a small scratch near the driver's side door on the side sill. When I run my finger over the scratch I cannot feel any kind of indentation...it seems fairly minor, what could I use to get it out? I tried wax but it did not work.

Thanks,

The circular motion deal should be bullpoop, however, if you are using a dirty or abrasive towel, then that would be true. If you are using clean, non-abrasive towels and products, then you shouldnt have a problem either way. As for the scratch, run your fingernail accross the scratch, if your fingernail gets caught, it would either need to be buffed or touched up. If it doesn't get caught, I would try using a polish that is either non-abrasive or only slightly abrasive, I carry a line of Polish that is designed for black paint. If that doesnt work, then I would go with some sort of mildly abrasive compound. A fine-cut product should work fine. I also have that as well, typically you would use a buffing wheel with a foam pad for that, but if it is just a small scratch you should be able to remove the scratch by hand. If that still doesn't work, then go deeper with a Heavy Compound. Always start with the least abrasive product and work your way up if you have to. Always clean after each step and make sure each applicator pad and towel is a little damp with some quick detail spray. Once finished make sure you put a nice coat of wax over it. If you need any more details or help, just ask.
mike
 

sshorty

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You have to be careful on which rubbing compound you use. I would go with something that is only a mild abrasive. Something like a fine cut from 3M or similar. Use a cotton or microfiber applicator pad with some quick detail spray on it, just enough to make it damp but not saturated. Then try to rub out the scratch concentrating on that area only. I would use a small amount of compound just enough for the area you are rubbing, once you have generated a small amout of heat from the rubbing motion, not from pressure, then wipe it off using some quick detail spray and a cotton towel or some solvent and a cotton towel. Then I would follow that with some glaze also using the same process, but this time when removing it, don't use the solvent, just the quick detail spray. Then use a good polish, preferably something designed for dark vehicles...then a good wax..and you're ready to roll.
 

Andrew/USPWR

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I was reading some posts about not waxing in a circular motion because it brings out the swirl marks more, is there any truth to that? It is a black car which the previous owner kept in absolute beautiful shape, I just do not want to do anything to reverse that fortune. Also, there is a small scratch near the driver's side door on the side sill. When I run my finger over the scratch I cannot feel any kind of indentation...it seems fairly minor, what could I use to get it out? I tried wax but it did not work.

Thanks,
____________________________________________

I've been told the same thing. If you should get dirt on your waxing cloth, circular scratches will be more noticeable than straight ones. I wax with straight movements forward and aft, running with the lines of the car as much as I can.



2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)
 

sshorty

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Why not use what the painting-finishing plant uses?

It is http://www.hillas.com/Froogle.asp?Item=30660
3M Finesse-It Purple, 3M # 51056

This is a great product, this is one of the products I was talking about, just indirectly. I would use this then the other polish I was talking about. The polish I use that's for dark cars is more of a sealant, however, it can remove ultra-fine scratches and swirl marks.
 
G

grcforce327

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Menzerna here(4 stages),with a Porter Cable(foam pads) to apply and micro-fiber rags to take off!!! :eek: :headbang: :2tu:
 

2BADD 4U

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As far as the comments on getting grit/dirt on your waxing applicator/towels....in all due respect....if you pay close attentiom to what you are doing ...there will be no harmfull dirt. If you drop your applicator or micro-fiber towel...throw it away or in the washing machine.

Also, it does not matter if you wax in a straight back and forth motion vs. a circular motion...dirt will scratch in any direction .....common sense. Obviously you will make more swirls in a circular random motion.

If you use proper washing methods and are very particular with your applicators, pails, and rinse, drying and wax applications and buffing. You will stay swirl free.

I cannot remember the last time I even washed my GTS. A quick wipe with a Cali duster and Pinnacle Crystal Mist Spray Wax with a micro-fiber towel... and your Viper is in awesome condition in 5 min. or less. Use a seperate duster on your rims, and spray also.

I have a good friend who has a Black RT/10 It hasn't been washed in over 5-6 years...he has the ultimate perfect shine anyone would desire.





Pocket AA

Here are the best proven detailing tips you can ever use!

I am 1 hour north of you near Wilkes Barre if you need additional help.

Dave


1. Claybar your entire car, you can get claybars at any Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc...the brand doesn't matter. USE PLENTY OF LUBRICANT! A large spray bottle with some Dawn dishwashing soap works great...Wait until you see the contaminants the claybar pulls off...and "renew" the claybar often, just stretch it, reshape it like Silly Putty...If you drop it on the ground...throw it away...it will pick up small dirt/rocks, and you will scratch your paint's finish.



2. Swirls and Scratches......The easiest way to get rid of them is with a PC 7424 Random Orbital......and get the "velcro foam pad adapter. Do NOT use the pads that come with the PC...especially the wool one.


3. To remove fine scratches and swirls, you'll need 6" YELLOW FOAM PADS... from www.topoftheline.com ...get about three of them. Also, you'll need a bottle of 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound. Put about a quarter sized amount of the 3M on the yellow pad, and at about 4000 rpms, work a 2 ft x 2ft area of your finish...(Tape up any crevices, like the black screens in the hood, this dust gets everywhere)...Keep the buffer moving, but go slow, and press hard enough to compress the YELLOW pad to half it's thickness...and when you think you are going slow enough, go slower...Heat (buffing pad) and abrasive (3M compound) are the only things that will remove swirls/scratches. BE CAREFULL AROUND ANY EDGES... AVOID EDGES...or sharp corners with your Buffer.



4. Once you have peeled all of the swirls/scratches out of your clearcoat, you'll need the 6" BLACK FOAM PADS from www.topoftheline.com ...Also, a bottle of 3M 3M Perfect-It™ III Finishing Glaze...for either DARK cars or for LIGHT cars...they make both...Now do the same as you did with the compound, only at 6000 rpms, again, pressing just hard enough to compress the pad to half it's thickness, which won't be as hard as the yellow pad was. This takes the finest of flaws out, and smooths your clearcoat to near perfection.



5. That should have taken you most of a weekend...if you stayed at it...You cannot mess this up with the Porter Cable...trust me...you could stand on that buffer with the beforementioned foam pads and not hurt your clearcoat...You have three coats of clear from the factory...15 years worth, if you did this every season.



6. Now, all you need is to apply many coats of whatever polish/wax you prefer, and when I say many, I mean at least 20...You can use the Porter Cable and WHITE FOAM PADS from www.topoftheline.com ...These are the softest pads available. Once you get a routine down, applying and removing one coat takes maybe 20 minutes.


7. I've used Meguires, Mothers, Zaino, etc...Really doesn't matter...Here's a good tip. Apply a coat of Pinnacle Spray Wax in between each coat of polish...and before you take your baby out.

You can get the Pinnacle Spray from...you guessed it... www.topoftheline.com ...I recommend these people because their service is phenomenal...period.



8. NEVER! Use anything but foam pads, or MicroFiber towels on your finish...The Viper's clearcoat is very soft, and scratches easy...



9. Dusting...California Duster...Buy a new one every summer, use the old one on your wheels to remove the bulk of the brake dust. Next summer, same deal, buy a new one, old one goes to the wheels, the old old one goes either to the wifeys car or the trash...After each Dusting with the duster...spray Pinnacle and buff with a micro fiber towel. Do the rims too!!! Get a Large one for the Viper's Body, small ones for the rims. And a small one for the interior!



10. Now, you've got several coats of polish/wax and Pinnacle applied...Your baby is looking pretty sweet...Take a brand new WHITE foam pad and at about 4000 rpms, go over the entire finish...yep...just a dry white finishing pad...Now do this after every Pinnacle application to really make your finish pop...


Zaino for the base coats ...(approx. 7 coats) Then Pinnacle Crystal Mist Spray between each coat...then Pinnacle Souvern Wax for at least 3-5 coats over the Zaino...Best shine out there.


http://www.pinnaclewax.com/

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc


Best of Luck! Dave
 

Andrew/USPWR

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Holy Shiiiii!

I'm exhaulsted just reading about how to wax. I never new. I thought I was annul by waxing every other wash. I feel like a slouch now.

Thanks Dave.

Do you have a recommendation on interior plastic? I used the 303 on my SRT/10 last weekend and it's turning white:-(



2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)
 

Paul Hawker

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Get what ever wax is on sale. WIth you car cool and in a shady place, wash and dry your car with whatever car wash is on sale. If you wish to clay bar your car, this is the time to do that.

Put some wax on a clean cloth (soft as you can get) and wipe it on your car, being careful not to get any on black trim, or into cracks (hard to clean out).
Let the wax dry for about 15 minutes and then wipe it off with a clean soft cloth.

Your Viper will be all shiney, and ready to go out for a cruise.

All the other stuff is a cherry on the top.
 

2BADD 4U

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Holy Shiiiii!

I'm exhaulsted just reading about how to wax. I never new. I thought I was annul by waxing every other wash. I feel like a slouch now.

Thanks Dave.

Do you have a recommendation on interior plastic? I used the 303 on my SRT/10 last weekend and it's turning white:-(



2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)




Hello Andrew

On interior CLEAR plastic, you cannot go wrong with Zaino Z-14.......Do not use on vinyl.

Zaino Z-16 for Exterior Plastics, trim, weather stripping, underhood hoses, etc.....

Zaino Z-10 works awesome on interior door panels, dash, and top area of dash below windshield.


Your Silver SRT 10 will look awesome with the above described format...the Pinnacle over Zaino gives the best in a deep ...wet shine with best durability.



How long do you need to wait between coats of wax?

Andrew, that varies with different products....Most products will have a recommended waiting time on the container. For Zaino Z2 Pro with "ZFX" added (a cure accelerator agent) You can lay down 3 coats/layers in 24 hrs...and it doesn't take long at all! Zaino products are "synthetic" polishes.

With the Pinnacle products (Natural Carnuba wax, it is recommended to wait 24 hrs. between coats/layers.


Actually the complete procedure is a lot of fun, and I enjoy it. Remember to get the "most" out of your Vipers finish...Always start with a good deep cleaning (washing) and a claybar treatment. Wash with dawn dish detergent which removes all prior waxes and contaminents.

Then use Zaino Z-7 Show Car Wash...(after your wax/polish applications). It will not remove wax.



Yes this is the cherry on top...vs. just a normal wash/wax...The difference is quite noticable under the natural sunlight.....It is the difference between a Viper with swirls and one with a perfect swirl free finish!

Enjoy and have fun!

Best, Dave


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ViperCrazed

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2badd, quick question. What do you think of the people that NEVER wash their black vipers. I couldnt stand to do this. IF u do wash black paint, what do you use to wash it with? microfiber towels?
 

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Thanks Dave,

I use Pinnacle wax and the carnuba spay, and I do recall ready 24hr between coats of wax. I’ll get some of that Zanio’s Z-10 tonight and try it on the back plastic. On the SRT/10, when you take the roof down and the sun hits that black it really heats up and it a very porous plastic. DC recommends mild soap and water only and I’m trying to do more.

Thanks again for the cherry advise. Your #338 looks fantastic!

Andrew

2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)
 

2BADD 4U

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2badd, quick question. What do you think of the people that NEVER wash their black vipers. I couldnt stand to do this. IF u do wash black paint, what do you use to wash it with? microfiber towels?


ViperCrazed,

It just takes a little maintenance to keep a Viper swirl free...(any color). Black especially. Guys who have Black Cars and keep them swirl free...use a PC and an abrasive , like 3-M Products to rid the swirls, not try and hide them.

Washing is the main reason swirls are created in the first place. When a cars body has a lot of dirt on it, it is nearly impossible to avoid creating swirls when washing....Then when you hand dry with the wrong type or dirty towels it creates more swirls. Washing and hand drying a car on a windy day is the worst time...due to airborn dust/dirt particles in the air. You might not see them, but they are there.

I would use Zaino Z-7 Show Car Wash (lots of suds)and a Micro-Fiber towel and use gentle pressure.....doing side sills last then rims. Using LOTS of suds on the rims and patting them gently avoiding excess rubbing.

Black gives the best reflective shine from a color you can get. It also shows road dust/dirt in a short drive. Just use a Cali duster gently, and Pinnacle spray with Micro-fiber towels lightly buffing. Rims too!

Dave
 

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Thanks Dave,

I use Pinnacle wax and the carnuba spay, and I do recall ready 24hr between coats of wax. I’ll get some of that Zanio’s Z-10 tonight and try it on the back plastic. On the SRT/10, when you take the roof down and the sun hits that black it really heats up and it a very porous plastic. DC recommends mild soap and water only and I’m trying to do more.

Thanks again for the cherry advise. Your #338 looks fantastic!

Andrew

2005 Silver SRT/10
2000 Steel Gray GTS (sold)




Andrew, your welcome!

I can understand the effects of the sun down there in Florida! GREAT place to own a Viper! Yep, some products react to the strong UV rays of the Sun and turn cloudy or milky. I never had that problem with the Zaino products. You are correct in trying to protect the interior...left untreated it will fade much sooner. Let me know how it works out for you. Enjoy that sun and ******* ride!




Best of Luck!

Dave
 

2BADD 4U

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Wow.
That red FE looks fantastic. You are right. That type of result takes a good bit of work.
Spectacular finish. Really makes the red POP!



Hello Paul,

Thanks for the compliments! The written procedure really sounds longer than it takes. Once you get the feel for it and develope a pattern for yourself, it is really simple. When you get that good shine, it just takes a little maintenance every 1-2 years or so with the buffer.

Best, Dave
 

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