Write-up for changing brake pads?
- Thread starter Indy
- Start date
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Fronts are easy to change, Remove front wheel, Using a small drift (blunt Nail) knock the pins out, remove the spring pad, slowly pry the pads apart and remove them. Check the dust seals are in good condition and replace pads 
The rear caliper has to be wound in Do not try to force it in with pressure as you will damage it. Also be very careful with the rubber gators on the rear caliper (where the caliper slides back n forth over the disc) they can split really easley if fully compressed.
Here's a link to How to rebuild the caliper http://wiki.seloc.org/a/How_to_Rebuild_a_Brembo_Caliper
It explains how the mechanism works
The rear caliper has to be wound in
Do not try to force it in with pressure as you will damage it. Also be very careful with the rubber gators on the rear caliper (where the caliper slides back n forth over the disc) they can split really easley if fully compressed.Here's a link to How to rebuild the caliper http://wiki.seloc.org/a/How_to_Rebuild_a_Brembo_Caliper
It explains how the mechanism works
Just did the rear and it was easy. Didn't even have to take the calipers off. How much do you guys rotate the rear pistons? Pads seem a little loose after install. Will pumping the brake pedal rotate them back out or do I have to adjust it manually for a tighter fit?
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There is a specific spanner for this...BUT, many use a sturdy pair of needle-nose pliers...taking care NOT to lslip and possibly lacerate the dust boot.
Normal need is to rotate pistons back in...not out. I wonder if yours are stuck??
Normal need is to rotate pistons back in...not out. I wonder if yours are stuck??
I did rotate it back in (clockwise)....was very easy with some needle nose pliers....the question is if they will rotate back out just enough to make the pads snug to the rotors or if I have to adjust them back out manually for a tighter fit. Never had calipers with a rotating piston before....just wanted to clarify this before I started pumping on the brake pedal.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
I had Stoptech brakes, easy as pie, same size pad front and back. No need to take the caliper off no pins involved, I used to swap out the fronts at the track in half an hour. Make sure you bed the pads in.
eabrillon1978
Viper Owner
Hey since someones on the topic, I purchased a set of EBC red's a little while back. What's the best way to break them in?
dave6666
Enthusiast
By using the break in procedure that comes with them.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Spoken like a um... surgeo..................
alwayscode390
Enthusiast
Fronts are easy to change, Remove front wheel, Using a small drift (blunt Nail) knock the pins out, remove the spring pad, slowly pry the pads apart and remove them. Check the dust seals are in good condition and replace pads
The rear caliper has to be wound in
Here's a link to How to rebuild the caliper http://wiki.seloc.org/a/How_to_Rebuild_a_Brembo_Caliper
It explains how the mechanism works
Thanks for the link and info ---
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Your very welcome
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
What I do is 4 runs from 100-5mph, 4 runs 80-5mph and 8 runs 60-5mph. Stomp on them hard but don't come to a complete stop, you will get some "green" fade and your pads will be smoking a little that is normal then drive about 5 miles without touching the brake pedal to cool them down and you have your pads bedded in.
When I installed my Stoptech system, the instructions said to do basically the same proceedure that SoCal Rebel wrote (I think my instructions said 6 runs from 60-5 mph) but twice. They said to drive long enough without touching the brakes to get the pads and rotors back to ambient temp in between. As for the smoke, it wasn't just a little. My car looked like my tires were on fire after about the fourth time! After that, my car will stop on a dime and give you back change!!
eabrillon1978
Viper Owner
dave6666
Enthusiast
LOL so sincere
But my EBC's did come with instructions. And I did follow them. I do trust the manufacturers
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
But my EBC's did come with instructions. And I did follow them. I do trust the manufacturers
That's your first mistake Dave
BTW, Brakeman 3>EBCs
dave6666
Enthusiast
I'll be doing Hawk HPS if I ever wear out those non braking reds. But, meanwhile, my no dust wheels stay so purdy.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
If dust is what you care about stick with those, but if you ever track your car and really need it to stop a Stoptech BB system and Brakeman 3 pads are the ticket
dave6666
Enthusiast
I've got 14" SRT brakes. Got the size factor covered. The reds were recommended by the vendor I bought the brake / wheel / tire package from.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
Oh god I put on a recommended set of Reds once drove around the block back into my driveway and took them off and threw them out, that's what I think of the Reds!
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
I have reds fitted to my stock size Gen 2 front calipers, I get a lot of dust off them when tracking the car? Can't say Im over impressed with them for stopping power! I was going to try the Pagid RS Racing brake pads next, more expensive but Hopefully they might anchor up better?
dave6666
Enthusiast
This is so easy even I can do it.
Doubtful sweet cheeks.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
Pagid and Hawk are "OK" track pads but being my Viper is a 2000 with no ABS I find that Brakeman 3 pads are a more "progressive" pad. Less chance of locking them up and flat spotting your tires, which I still did twice and ended up having to have the tires shaved. And Dave 14,770 posts? You *****.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Thanks for the info. Where's the best place to find Brakeman pads?
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