Walboro GSS341 upgrade, whose done it?

[MTGTS]

I'm looking for people that have actually done this upgrade. I'm in the middle of it and have the fuel bucket apart and the 341 is a little different than my OEM pump. Specifically the bottom portion. It doesn't look like the 341 will seat into the bottom whole as I think the height spacing is off. Am I in need of some little adapter or spacer?


OEM is on the right and the 341 is on the left

 

[Viper Specialty]

My first bit of advise... DONT. All of these aftermarket pumps are not dual stage like the factory pump, and will never be as reliable at low fuel levels. The only reliable method is to use a GSS341 and a factory pump in the same canister. At least then you get the surge-filling properties of the OE pump... but it doesnt help that the canister outlet is so damn small.

 

[MTGTS]

My first bit of advise... DONT. All of these aftermarket pumps are not dual stage like the factory pump, and will never be as reliable at low fuel levels.

Ok, I get that. What is the OEM good to hp wise? I guess I'd like to put another OEM in @ least since I have it all apart

 

[Viper Specialty]

unfortunately, you might be SOL on that one. The OEM pumps are Walbro, but I have never seen the exact pump available outside of Mopar.

Gnerally, the OEM G2 pump can make 600 RW on an NA car all day long with the right injectors.

 

[MTGTS]

ok, I'm running Gen 3 injectors so hopefully I'll be ok. I just put everything back together and it was all for nothing

 

[Red Snake]

I did this mod a while back when my OEM pump failed.

I opened up the factory canister hole with a dremel, so that the Walbro would fit.

I have put between 1000 and 2000 miles on the car with just the Walbro in the tank and my car runs perfectly. No issues whatsoever.

The stock pump was good to ~630 rwhp in my car with the Roe. After I stepped up to the Walbro pump I upped the boost and am now making 660 rwhp with plenty of fuel. I would stick it in there, especially since you already have it apart.



* IIRC, I believe the wiring polarity is backwards on the Walbro from the stock pump and you must reverse the wires. Double check that if you do the install.

 

[Viper Specialty]

I did this mod a while back when my OEM pump failed.

I opened up the factory canister hole with a dremel, so that the Walbro would fit.

I have put between 1000 and 2000 miles on the car with just the Walbro in the tank and my car runs perfectly. No issues whatsoever.

The stock pump was good to ~630 rwhp in my car with the Roe. After I stepped up to the Walbro pump I upped the boost and am now making 660 rwhp with plenty of fuel. I would stick it in there, especially since you already have it apart.



* IIRC, I believe the wiring polarity is backwards on the Walbro from the stock pump and you must reverse the wires. Double check that if you do the install.

Consider yourself lucky, and dont run your car aggressively when close to dry. The OEM fuel pump is dual stage, it keeps that canister full at all times, even when the tank is very low. the aftermarket pumps are single stage, and the canister will always be at the level of the fuel in the tank. Having an unfilled canister is better than none at all, but having a full one is always the best way to go.

 

[Jack B]

I installed the Walbro and Dan is right, I have to keep the fuel level over a 1/4, otherwise under hard acceleration the pickup will run dry. If you keep it over a 1/4 there are no issues. Normal street driving is not an issue either even when under a 1/4 tank.

 

[Red Snake]

I never run under a 1/4 tank. Haven't had any problems.

 

[MTGTS]

I track the car a lot so I put the OEM back in. I talked to Chuck Tator for a little while today on the situation. He seems to think the OEM should be fine for my power level since I'm NA. This lack of a drop in pump is going to be an issue in the future for ALL Gen 2 owners. I talked to Walbor and they refused to sell me one and VPA said there's only one full $800 module left in Chrysler system.

 

[Viper Specialty]

I track the car a lot so I put the OEM back in. I talked to Chuck Tator for a little while today on the situation. He seems to think the OEM should be fine for my power level since I'm NA. This lack of a drop in pump is going to be an issue in the future for ALL Gen 2 owners. I talked to Walbor and they refused to sell me one and VPA said there's only one full $800 module left in Chrysler system.

LOL, I told you so

 

[plumcrazy]

i was told never to go into boost if less than half tank. im pretty sure this was part of that reason

 

[Viper Specialty]

I should also mention that the Gen-3 and 4 canisters should fit later Gen-2 cars where the filler is not part of the module anymore. Dont quote me as I have not tried, but from memory, they were virtually identical. The Gen-3 is just a slightly more advanced version with 3/8 fittings instead of 5/16, and the Gen-4 is a redesigned version with an integral filter assembly, but it has the same fitment. From what I can see, the Gen-3 appears to be the best overall basket design. Even if you could not drop a Gen-3 right in, you could surely mix and match the majority of the parts.

 

[treesnake]

i was told never to go into boost if less than half tank. im pretty sure this was part of that reason

Hey plum,
A lot of that has to do with gravity and the shape of the tank. When you are pulling hard Gs under boost, the gas surges to the back of tank and fuel pick up runs dry....

Fwiw.... Unfortunately, the same fluid surge happens in the transmission under big hp, boosted pulls. The front of
transmission/gears run dry. Dry gears under heavy strain=sheared gears....
I plan to fix this problem with by installing an external pump that pumps fluid back to the front of the transmission.

Too bad the fuel pump fix isn't that easy....

 

[treesnake]

My first bit of advise... DONT. All of these aftermarket pumps are not dual stage like the factory pump, and will never be as reliable at low fuel levels. The only reliable method is to use a GSS341 and a factory pump in the same canister. At least then you get the surge-filling properties of the OE pump... but it doesnt help that the canister outlet is so damn small.

Works great.......

 

[plumcrazy]

makes sense

 

[DrumrBoy]

As mentioned, stock is fine to 600 RW or better. I forget if we spoke about this, but if the stock one ever goes out on you, rather than spend sick $$$ replacing it you might do 2 Walbros with a relief circuit which will keep you going if one ever fails.....I think this would also address the low fuel level issue but not 100% sure.

 

[Viper Specialty]

As mentioned, stock is fine to 600 RW or better. I forget if we spoke about this, but if the stock one ever goes out on you, rather than spend sick $$$ replacing it you might do 2 Walbros with a relief circuit which will keep you going if one ever fails.....I think this would also address the low fuel level issue but not 100% sure.

Nope, two single stage walbros will not function like a dual stage, as the stages are independent. Even if rigged with one internal canister, one external canister, the external will pump air into the system whenever it runs dry. [assuming I am reading what you wrote correctly]

 

[DrumrBoy]

Thx. Good to know, I didn't understand the difference between the aftermarket pumps and the OEM unit.

 

[MTGTS]

I should also mention that the Gen-3 and 4 canisters should fit later Gen-2 cars where the filler is not part of the module anymore. Dont quote me as I have not tried, but from memory, they were virtually identical. The Gen-3 is just a slightly more advanced version with 3/8 fittings instead of 5/16, and the Gen-4 is a redesigned version with an integral filter assembly, but it has the same fitment. From what I can see, the Gen-3 appears to be the best overall basket design. Even if you could not drop a Gen-3 right in, you could surely mix and match the majority of the parts.

Interesting, I wonder if the Gen 3 unit uses the same Walbro pump as the Gen 2's.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Fairly sure the Gen-3 pump is a tad higher flow. If you kept the part number from your Gen-2, I could pull the number off the Gen-3 I have laying around. Probably something along the lines of G1/G2 is a 190LPH, and the Gen-3/4 are 255LPH, or G1/G2 is a 255LPH while 3/4 is a 255LPH-HP. Never really broke part numbers down on these.

 

[MTGTS]

Fairly sure the Gen-3 pump is a tad higher flow. If you kept the part number from your Gen-2, I could pull the number off the Gen-3 I have laying around. Probably something along the lines of G1/G2 is a 190LPH, and the Gen-3/4 are 255LPH, or G1/G2 is a 255LPH while 3/4 is a 255LPH-HP. Never really broke part numbers down on these.

the Walbro part # is GRJ 252. I didn't write down the the longer part # as I couldn't figure out whose it was.

 

[Viper Specialty]

The Gen-3 pump has no Walbro part number on it, only an internal Mopar number & a Walbro stamp. It looks pretty much the same as above, with a Blue bottom and Tan top instead.

 

[MTGTS]

The Gen 2 has I guess an internal part #, then the GRJ 252, then some other long # and then a patent #. When I was talking to Walbro I gave them the longer part# first and they said that wasn't one of there's so then I gave them the GRJ#. I find it funny that such a little part has so many #'s on it. If there's a # with 3 letters then 3#'s it's Walbros #.

Also, wondering if you could swap just the Gen 3 pump into the Gen 2 bucket.

 

[Viper Specialty]

The Gen 2 has I guess an internal part #, then the GRJ 252, then some other long # and then a patent #. When I was talking to Walbro I gave them the longer part# first and they said that wasn't one of there's so then I gave them the GRJ#. I find it funny that such a little part has so many #'s on it. If there's a # with 3 letters then 3#'s it's Walbros #.

Also, wondering if you could swap just the Gen 3 pump into the Gen 2 bucket.

Nope, had a Mopar number, then a long number, then 11403-1 if I recall, then a patent number. That number is probably Walbros number, but its not in any Walbro format I could find on the internet. All the Walbro numbers were something like the GRJ-252 that I could see.

 

[MTGTS]

I find it stupid that the pumps have a mopar # but you can't order them. what the hell was the point