No need to take the hood off. You can snake the line out without taking it off, but the front fascia does need to come off. Just cant get the wrenches in there to disconnect from the cooler. Put some heater hose over the lines when you put it back together. It'll protect them from rubbing...
This is my old car. It always had a bucking problem if I tried to cruise it at 1600-2000 rpms in closed loop. I chalked the jerking/bucking up to the fact that it was modded pretty good. It has ported heads, T&D rockers, external billet rails with 42lb injectors, stock iron flywheel, 70mm...
The timing chain cover is a bit of a PITA. I would try to flush any remaining bits down into the pan first. Use some sort of squeeze bottle and small hose/nozzle and flush down through the sensor hole. With the pan completely off, you can use a flash light and look up into the timing chain...
High NOx emissions are from high combustion tempuratures in most cases. Car could be running a little lean. How are the O2 sensors, were they replaced during all this?
I have battled the idle hang on my Viper and a built LS1 Formula. Both times, I have found that idle adjustment screw for the throttle stop played a BIG part. What I believe happens is the idle screw gets set too low and the system tries to compensate by opening the IAC more and more...
The pulley is actually only bolted to the balancer. If you need to get the balancer off the end of the crank snout don't use the jaw type puller, could damage or break the balancer. Unbolt the pulley and use the bolt type puller. I used the one from Checker, but I got longer bolts so I could...
I'm 575 rwhp all motor at 105 degrees and crappy 91 summer blend AZ gas right now. Had to pull some timing just so it wouldn't detonate. I'm sure the motor has a little more and 10s in it, I'm just hoping I can pilot it there when it cools off a little here in AZ!
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