180 Deg. Thermostat change.. HELP !!

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 9, 2002
Posts
4,030
Reaction score
3
Location
Charlotte, North Carolina
Hey Guys,

I got a 180 deg stat, and I dont want to have to disable everything to get at the housing, could I just take out the screws for the intake and not unscrew the throttle body boots and cables ?? could I just remove the screws and lift it up so that I could get at the thermostat housing ?? Or should I just accept that the WHOLE intake has to be disconnected and taken off ?? Thx.

-Jon
 

WESTCOAST JASON

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 7, 2000
Posts
603
Reaction score
0
Location
Temecula, CA
I just did one a bit ago on a 98 and you do have to remove the intake. When I did it I left some lines connected and 'rotated' the intake and set it sideways across the motor. The tips I learned are to have a 'grabber' tool or a good magnet tool handy as when (not if, but when) either the socket or one of the 20 screws drop, it makes retrieval much easier. There is also a torque sequence on the intake, basic in to out twice, but be sure to follow it. Should only take a couple hours in a relaxed pace. The worst part is burping the system full, try a set of Roe radiator hoses with the burp nut.
 
OP
OP
2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 9, 2002
Posts
4,030
Reaction score
3
Location
Charlotte, North Carolina
HP, Thx, but from the search I did no one is actually answering my question about how to remove it, only about its usefullness. I have heard the new "search" isnt as good, so if I missed something, then please point out the message your talking about.

Thx.

-Jon
 

HP

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 8, 2002
Posts
822
Reaction score
0
Location
Little Rock,AR,USA
HP, Thx, but from the search I did no one is actually answering my question about how to remove it, only about its usefullness. I have heard the new "search" isnt as good, so if I missed something, then please point out the message your talking about.

Thx.

-Jon

The thing is, I really didn't pay much attention to it, I just remember
it involved less work than what I had read before. It was in the last month
or so, but I understand what you're saying about the search - I can't always
find what I know is there. It may have been Jason's procedure??
 

WESTCOAST JASON

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 7, 2000
Posts
603
Reaction score
0
Location
Temecula, CA
Jon - I re-read and now see your actual question - yes, you can leave the TB's on, you do have to remove the intake tubes and other than that, whether you lift the intake or 'twist' it out of the way, the process is the same. Simple things like throttle linkage should be removed....
 

Andrew2KRT10

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 25, 2001
Posts
2,886
Reaction score
0
Location
New York, where else?
I Just finished mine this weekend. Bad news....you have to take it all off.

Disconnect all the elctrical Sh*t, as per the manual. And don't get too frustrated with the connections near the firewall. A real pain to reach, but it is do-able.
Pull off the wipers and the the cowling....a MUST.

Take the intake off, and set aside!! Then the housing is nice and easy to get to.
Besides, you have to change the intake gaskets and clean off the heads and everything. Also have to clean off the thermostat housing gasket and change that. No way you can do all that and not take the intake off.

It's more a matter of time than degree of difficulty.

I put mine together by Sunday afternoon and ran the car and checked everything....so far so good. I also changed to the silicone hoses while I was at it and got mine from Sean Roe, with the bleeder valve which is nice. I also cleaned my K&N's while I was at it and changed the oil/filter.

You'll be happy once it's done. You will have cleaned everything out on the block where alot of dirt rests. Just be sure to use a little of RTV Silicone on both sides of the gasket.....very little. You don't want this thing leaking after you go through all this work. Torque down everything correctly. Follow the sequence on the intake when tightening the bolts and remember the block is aluminum! Don't cross thread the bolts going in. It is very easy to do, and it is a two man job. You will have to jiggle the intake a little to get all the bolts to line up and thread in. I almost had a disaster on one bolt that started going in bad once all the others were in, but I ran a 1/4-20 tap in the threads and the bolt went in fine.

Oh! And cover the windshield with cardboard! Lots of things going on and you don't want to chip the glass.

Go by the book. Good luck,

Andrew :usa:
 

Andrew2KRT10

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 25, 2001
Posts
2,886
Reaction score
0
Location
New York, where else?
I re-read your last post. Follow a manual. Get one. You'll be taking all the electrical connections off, intake tubes, Brake booster hose. The book calls for disconnecting the spark plug wires, but no way you have to do that. There is a bolt into the intake on the back driver's side that holds a bracket that hold the wires. Just take off that bracket and you'll be able to fit your arm in back to disconnect other things including the quick disconnect for the gas line. Remember to release the fuel pressure with the little bike-like valve on top of the intake. My 2000 had one. Chuck Tator gave me that tip. And, yeah, a good tool to grab the bolts that you WILL drop between the intake when you puit it back on is a good thing to have. Get one!

Twisting the intake out of the way??? I wouldn't. You are going through so much work already, just take it off and set it aside out of the way.

Oh yeah. Disconnect that battery. A good time to clean out the battery tray and install a pad on the tray.

Good luck,
Andrew
 
Top