Anybody been burned from modifications?

[jwwiii]

I could not resist getting to the point!

I am the proud owner of new Viper #2 (an 01'RT). I have performed the "normal" upgrades on both Vipers, (smooth tubes, K&N's, cat-back Mopar Street exhaust, Mopar "race Controller"), and am considering more goodies. The 01' is still in break-in period.

I am concerned about the consequences of more serious mods. I have "chased the dragon" in high-end hi-fi, and have lost a fortune on resale. Some mods are great, others cost a fortune for limited results. I still believe that Tiger Woods would kick 99% of our butts with a 40 year old set of golf clubs. We crave horsepower and volume, but we are not necessarily better drivers. How many of you other owners have done mods and regretted them? What are the mods you regret, why?

I can do extreme mods, but even new headers concern me because there is always a consequence; maybe paint discoloration, high temperature in the cockpit, failure of other parts, etc. I would appreciate the feedback. Headers seem like the next logical upgrade. What do I have to lose besides the expense?

Sincerely,

Jim

 

[Paul Hawker]

Best modification for seat of the pants kick is to change differential gear from 3:07 to 3:54 or such. Still warranty friendly (except for the gears ofcourse.) Do not go into the engine! Best idea is to talk to your favorite ViperTech, and ask his opinion, as some warranty issues are vere dealer specific. Dodge has been very friendly to modified Vipers, however that issue is always in flux. "You pays your money and takes your chances."

 

[Jay Herbert]

My experience with the classifieds says that most mods involving the engine are not "resale friendly" (ie very low return on what you put in, AND a tougher sell). Upgrading got aftermarket wheels you may be are lucky to return 50% of the cost of the wheels, usually less.

Buyer seem OK with exhaust replacement/upgrades, but become skittish when they start to see headers and rear-end changes. Many get a completely different pumpkin to do a rear gear ratio change, that way they can easily swap back to stock for resale. Another ggod upgrade is to the stock shifter, many good options available there. Brake pads from greatbrakes.com are a nice one too.

From a resale value perspective, a clean, low mileage, stock car with K/N's and smooth tubes is the best route.

Brake upgrades are one upgrade that buyers are not as concerned with, but again $ for $, you'll be lucky to get 25% of what you invest back at resale time.

 

[AviP]

IMHO, modifications without exploiting the full capability of the stock Viper gives bragging rights. And since it is hard to harness all that power and capability on the street consistently without getting a reckless endangerment charge, I generally consider upgrades useless.

And then there's service and warranty considerations. Most aftermarket parts don't have the factory equivalent warranty. So would I rather be spending time in the shop than on the road. Reliability is a key factor to me.

But that's my 2 cents.

-Avi
Stock '97 GTS

 

[jwwiii]

Thanks for the comments.

Resale is not so much the issue as is the "downside" or consequence of the mod. Headers are my BIG question. Seems like many owners add them. WHAT IS THE RISK OF ADDING HEADERS? Will the increase in under-hood temp be a problem? What problems have any of you had after you did the header upgrade?

I did the gear swap on my 98', and really enjoyed it; really burned up the tires with spin! My 01' doesn't seem like it needs other gears to improve "streetability" in my opinion so far. The 01' drives so much better in my opinion.

Please tell me what problems you have encountered if you have done a header upgrade. Jon B has been very helpful and says the headers sound better, increase hp and side-sills are cooler. Please give me more input.

Sincerely,

Jim

 

[JonB]

There are downsides.......but on balance, few. And, those can be guarded against.

Pick the RIGHT header for 90% of your driving.

For example, PartsRack sells more Belangers than any other....becasue they have good HP, ease of install, quality and value, but they alo fit 75% of all Viper owners needs and goals ! Downsides?

Under-hood heat is up slightly. Stock head shields HIDE these beauties, so most opt to display them. Get Hi Temp (Blue) 8.5mm Viper Wires...... ($99) Get SnakeSox plug wire insulators ($49 from PartsRack or $99 from Summit) Cool looking and running. If you tend to do a lot of track events w/ long sessions, insulate your P/S booster and P/B Booster. Alum waffle-foil insul + Tie-Wraps. Cheap insurance.

Downside.....You may one day sell your snake, and the buyer wants it OEm stock. Save your shorty tubes for that case. In the meantime........Enjoy the ride !

 

[Ron Hickey]

Mr. Tittle has it right: Generally modifications are inversely proportional to reliability. If you want to go fast on a road course, spend your money on Viper Days schools and the like -- there is no substitute for seat time. And the first modifications to do are brakes and safety equipment. (Just as Tiger could kick *** with a set of Wal-Mart clubs, so could Olivier Beretta in a Neon embarrass a mortally-driven Viper, at least on a tight course!)

On the other hand, if it's bragging rights you're after, you're doomed to spend lots of money. And you'll never get much of that back on resale. Easily the best way to buy a Hennessey Venom car is to buy one used at a fraction of the cost the original purchaser paid.

If you stick to the light stuff -- tubes, filters, headers, exhaust, gears, maybe even roller rockers -- and stay out of the engine you can always go back to stock, without chancing voiding your warranty.

 

[dtittle]

Hey Guys,

I quit counting $$$ when I hit $180,000 for my 96 GTS! Oh, it was BAD alright! I've got pictures of me lifting the front wheels and have tripped off a couple of 10.2's (yes, with me driving) and also tried to road race with the car. The truth was that it was so crankyand moody (kind of like my X) to the point that it was unmanageable. When it wanted to run, hold on, but otherwise it was so much $$$ to keep and was really high maintenace.

All I really wanted to do was road race reliably and after my 4th blown motor I got rid of that that sucker (my X too) for $40K (ouch) and bought a 2000 GTS. With only 32 miles on the car I put our big brake kit, Moton shocks, K&N's, short shifter, lowered and put a good alignment on her. Oh yeah, good fluids. The end result was immedately 3 seconds faster in a TOTALLY STOCK motored car vs. a 765 RWHP and 941 RWTQ with big brakes, racing seat, etc. AND, I could just FLOG the &^%$ out of it without any fear of another $15,000 bottom end job and another 6 months in Houston. One time my car was away for almost eight months.

Anyway, just another .02! (Well, okay, .04! But who's counting?)

Regards,