Can 900whp be had with Roe S/C
- Thread starter sparty116
- Start date
1BADSNK
Enthusiast
sparty116
As you can tell people are are having to argue your question. Scrap the thought of a roe if you want 900+ with less headache. Buy a CENTRIFIGAL! Get the Paxton and have a tuner do the install. There was a '96 GTS at Underground less than a year ago and now it's in Fl. that had no cats, a paxton, a fuel system, race gas, and that's it, that put 925rwhp. 800rwhp on pump gas. No engine work.
Good Luck.
As you can tell people are are having to argue your question. Scrap the thought of a roe if you want 900+ with less headache. Buy a CENTRIFIGAL! Get the Paxton and have a tuner do the install. There was a '96 GTS at Underground less than a year ago and now it's in Fl. that had no cats, a paxton, a fuel system, race gas, and that's it, that put 925rwhp. 800rwhp on pump gas. No engine work.
Good Luck.
1TONY1
Enthusiast
Better yet does anybody have et slips from a true Paxton DIY. Do they exist ? Are they skeered to race ??
2MANYTOYS
Enthusiast
Betteryet does anybody have et slips from a true Paxton DIY. Do they exist ? Are they skeered to race ??
Care to elaborate on a "true Paxton install"
LOL! I'm just kidding Tony
1TONY1
Enthusiast
Betteryet does anybody have et slips from a true Paxton DIY. Do they exist ? Are they skeered to race ??
Care to elaborate on a "true Paxton install"
LOL! I'm just kidding Tony
Really I should because some may not understand what I mean.
Tonys definition of a true Paxton DIY install: Someone orders a Paxton kit via paxton and him and friends install it.
A Paxton DIY kit is not a DLM, Underground or Heffner s/c with a Paxton blower. Waaaay different.
And all this brings me to my next thought.....are there any true Paxton DIY kits (not tuner kits) installed and tuned by a professional that have actually made some drag passes ???
P.S. I have seen dyno pulls from Paxton gen3 kits.....very impressive. Now, take them to the drag strip, I want to see what they do there. I still think my wife needs one on her SRT10 but she has given me about $$$8000 reasons she does not need one
STUGOTS its ok bro we here to exchange thoughts and ideas no worries at all.
Well sorry guy when i searched for my dynosheets (1y old) I found out that my car only did 715RWHP (no pulley size is mentioned thought) but I think 10psi. Knock on wood UtahViper good memory bro.
guys I don’t use or talk about my boost only runs much if any ! so sorry if I did a mistake in numbers but I wasn’t sure so I said around mid 700 , I only do highways roll ons most of the times so I only smack talk about my big numbers.
Utah, the 2.3” is it the 10psi pulley or it’s a smaller pulley ?
No offence but when I my self installed my first 5psi ROE S/C with almost zero mechanic experience just following the manual and Sean great support the car ran trouble free no codes no misfiring ! that’s why I went with my second fully built Roe S/C viper.
Back to the main ROE topic , sparty116 if you want just 900RWHP you can find many who will do this for you but believe me few who will support you like Sean im not making an ad here its true Ive known Sean since he introduced his first line of superchargers and he never ignored one question I asked ! call Sean and tell him exactly what you looking for im sure he will answer you better than anyone here !
1BADSNK
Enthusiast
Quote:
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Try it instead with a Paxton w/14lbs. of boost, a fuel system, and a good tune. There are quite a few cars running around with that setup w/900+.
I had a 5lb. Roe s/c that gave me a whole 82hp,black smoke,misfire codes,and a ruined hood pad.
I've already bought my Paxton and on the list for an install soon. I'll keep the spray on it but turn it down. I'm shooting for over 1000rwhp on race gas off the spray.
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No offence but when I my self installed my first 5psi ROE S/C with almost zero mechanic experience just following the manual and Sean great support the car ran trouble free no codes no misfiring ! that’s why I went with my second fully built Roe S/C viper
MbnViper
Then that means mine should have definately been 125hp as advertised and no misfire codes since I didn't do the install myself. I had the man himself do it since I lived down the road from his shop at the time. HINT: Jacksonville,Fl.
I agree that Sean and Dave are nice guys. I actually think they are great guys and that they have developed some really good products for our cars except for that Roe S/C. It has issues that weren't disclosed when I spent the $$$. I am very happy with their other parts on my car.
So no offense taken trust me. I learned from it and just sharing my bad experience and $.02 so hopefully others don't go the same road.
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Try it instead with a Paxton w/14lbs. of boost, a fuel system, and a good tune. There are quite a few cars running around with that setup w/900+.
I had a 5lb. Roe s/c that gave me a whole 82hp,black smoke,misfire codes,and a ruined hood pad.
I've already bought my Paxton and on the list for an install soon. I'll keep the spray on it but turn it down. I'm shooting for over 1000rwhp on race gas off the spray.
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No offence but when I my self installed my first 5psi ROE S/C with almost zero mechanic experience just following the manual and Sean great support the car ran trouble free no codes no misfiring ! that’s why I went with my second fully built Roe S/C viper
MbnViper
Then that means mine should have definately been 125hp as advertised and no misfire codes since I didn't do the install myself. I had the man himself do it since I lived down the road from his shop at the time. HINT: Jacksonville,Fl.
I agree that Sean and Dave are nice guys. I actually think they are great guys and that they have developed some really good products for our cars except for that Roe S/C. It has issues that weren't disclosed when I spent the $$$. I am very happy with their other parts on my car.
So no offense taken trust me. I learned from it and just sharing my bad experience and $.02 so hopefully others don't go the same road.
Mike, I'm not discounting your experience with the Roe blower, however it is not the norm. I'm on my second Roe unit and couldn't be happier with the setup. Yours is the only experience I've heard of with that magnitude of problems. To insinuate that anyone looking at a Roe blower is likely to have the bad experience you had is simply not supported by the statistics. That would be like saying the big Heffner turbo setup should be avoided because Chad had one seize shortly after installation. Not justified in either case.
David Weaver
Enthusiast
I have done 2 505 cubic inch strokers and 2 510 cubic inch strokers. I am running the 2.5 inch pulley (10 pounds) on 2 of the cars and the 2.3 inch pulley (12 pound) on the other 2. The 2.3 inch pulley makes 9.5 pounds of boost (Greg Good heads on both of them, one has stock 97 cam, one has a custom grind for NOS, actually the same cam as MBN has). The stock 97 cam makes @ 740 HP and @ 780 TQ on an aggresive tune up with the VEC. The custom cammed car makes @ 750 HP and @ 810 TQ with an aggresive tune up with the AEM. Both cars are detuned for reliable street use and are both running @ 710 HP on street tunes. I am doing the water injection on the AEM car today and will have it on the dyno tomorrow. I will probably have to call Roe for bigger jets. I will post the results in this thread for you after I finish. The AEM car made over 900HP and 1100 TQ on the NOS.
The 510 Cubic inch cars (one is an RSI build) are both running the 2.5 inch (10 pound) pulley as the owners requested conservative tune ups. They net about 8 lbs of boost. Both of these cars have stock 97 cams. They have very similar tune ups and both make @ 725 HP (don't remember the torqe on these two and I'm to busy to fire up the dyno computer to look) but are detuned to @ 680HP for reliable street use.
I personally don't see 900 being made by a blower only set up. I have 2 motors we are building now that are stock cubic inch but we went really crazy on the cam design, on of those things no one has tried yet. It might payoff with power and then again, it might not! I believe I can push 800 on the AEM car by just adding the **** injection and an agressive tune up but I don't think it will be street reliable in the Texas heat with that kind of a tune up.
DW
The 510 Cubic inch cars (one is an RSI build) are both running the 2.5 inch (10 pound) pulley as the owners requested conservative tune ups. They net about 8 lbs of boost. Both of these cars have stock 97 cams. They have very similar tune ups and both make @ 725 HP (don't remember the torqe on these two and I'm to busy to fire up the dyno computer to look) but are detuned to @ 680HP for reliable street use.
I personally don't see 900 being made by a blower only set up. I have 2 motors we are building now that are stock cubic inch but we went really crazy on the cam design, on of those things no one has tried yet. It might payoff with power and then again, it might not! I believe I can push 800 on the AEM car by just adding the **** injection and an agressive tune up but I don't think it will be street reliable in the Texas heat with that kind of a tune up.
DW
1TONY1
Enthusiast
And..........there is your answer. Another 30ci isn't going to change the hp that much.
The question "should be" at the power it would make ..... what kind of set up will it be faster and slower than ??? By how much ??? Nobody has mentioned tq, or power under the curve power or $$$$$. All of those are also very important.
The question "should be" at the power it would make ..... what kind of set up will it be faster and slower than ??? By how much ??? Nobody has mentioned tq, or power under the curve power or $$$$$. All of those are also very important.
Hi Everyone,
I agree with most of the points about the HP figures. These blowers make a lot of torque and that's why we use them. Peak HP numbers are generally at 5,700-6,000 RPM on Viper engines. When I overlay a Paxton kit pull over one of ours, we're ahead of them at lower RPM's by at least 120 RWTQ in the 2,000-3,500 RPM area on a 5 psi setup (compared to their 8). However, they're blower comes on super strong at about 5,000 and runs away from ours over 5,200. When you shift, you're back in the torque area of our blower. Positive displacement SC's are well suited for engines that are designed to live at lower RPM's like the Viper V10.
Do I think you can get 900 RWHP with our standard kit and water / ****, doubtful. Can you get 900 RWTQ, probably.
The biggest issue would be simple to resolve. Belt wrap. On the SRT-10 motors, where the crank pulley is 5.8" OD (compared to 6.95" OD for G1 and G2 engines), we're using a 2.25" pulley (a 2.5" pulley is our standard 10 PSI pulley on G1 and G2). To eliminate the belt slip, we're putting the idler closer to the SC pulley and making it wrap more. This could be done on a G2 kit by drilling and tapping a new mounting hole in the "A" bracket where the idler is installed.
To Mike,
No excuses from me, but we’ve come a long way since your kit about 2 years ago (we’ve been in the new shop for a year and a half). The programming has become much better since the VEC2 improvements and all the time we spend on the dyno resulted in more base power and smoother running. However, at times we do see a 2000-2002 car not make the numbers it should. I’m sure you remember the posts you made on this site inquiring why your car didn’t make the same power as others once you installed other mods. The biggest factor, cam timing. According to some friends at Chrysler, the cam timing can be off 5 degrees due to the stack up of tolerances. That’s why so many motors come back from factory rebuilds making stronger numbers.
On the check engine light for the misfire code, we tell everyone with a 2000-2002 that there’s a 70% chance the PCM will need to be changed to an earlier one. The code sets if the engine accelerates or decelerates faster than the internal program says it should. Both your 2002 and John’s 2001 did this with the mods they had and neither car had a SC. It’s not unusual with mods, be it aluminum flywheel, heads and cam, SC or other with 2000 to 2002 PCM's. Nonetheless, I’m glad to see you didn’t give up on the Viper and go back to Mustangs
Regards,
Sean
I agree with most of the points about the HP figures. These blowers make a lot of torque and that's why we use them. Peak HP numbers are generally at 5,700-6,000 RPM on Viper engines. When I overlay a Paxton kit pull over one of ours, we're ahead of them at lower RPM's by at least 120 RWTQ in the 2,000-3,500 RPM area on a 5 psi setup (compared to their 8). However, they're blower comes on super strong at about 5,000 and runs away from ours over 5,200. When you shift, you're back in the torque area of our blower. Positive displacement SC's are well suited for engines that are designed to live at lower RPM's like the Viper V10.
Do I think you can get 900 RWHP with our standard kit and water / ****, doubtful. Can you get 900 RWTQ, probably.
The biggest issue would be simple to resolve. Belt wrap. On the SRT-10 motors, where the crank pulley is 5.8" OD (compared to 6.95" OD for G1 and G2 engines), we're using a 2.25" pulley (a 2.5" pulley is our standard 10 PSI pulley on G1 and G2). To eliminate the belt slip, we're putting the idler closer to the SC pulley and making it wrap more. This could be done on a G2 kit by drilling and tapping a new mounting hole in the "A" bracket where the idler is installed.
To Mike,
No excuses from me, but we’ve come a long way since your kit about 2 years ago (we’ve been in the new shop for a year and a half). The programming has become much better since the VEC2 improvements and all the time we spend on the dyno resulted in more base power and smoother running. However, at times we do see a 2000-2002 car not make the numbers it should. I’m sure you remember the posts you made on this site inquiring why your car didn’t make the same power as others once you installed other mods. The biggest factor, cam timing. According to some friends at Chrysler, the cam timing can be off 5 degrees due to the stack up of tolerances. That’s why so many motors come back from factory rebuilds making stronger numbers.
On the check engine light for the misfire code, we tell everyone with a 2000-2002 that there’s a 70% chance the PCM will need to be changed to an earlier one. The code sets if the engine accelerates or decelerates faster than the internal program says it should. Both your 2002 and John’s 2001 did this with the mods they had and neither car had a SC. It’s not unusual with mods, be it aluminum flywheel, heads and cam, SC or other with 2000 to 2002 PCM's. Nonetheless, I’m glad to see you didn’t give up on the Viper and go back to Mustangs
Regards,
Sean
Sean have you had the chance to get any Dyno numbers for a 14 Psi S/C with water/****,heads,cam,1.7 Rockers,headers,HF cats,catback,70mm TB's,smoothies,filters and an aluminum flywheel??
If not, if you had to take a guess of the RWHO and RWTQ what would it be?
If not, if you had to take a guess of the RWHO and RWTQ what would it be?
You're just about describing the shop car, with the exception that the bottom end is stock (no aftermarket cam) and it has no cats at the moment.
I haven't run mine past 11 yet. Frankly, I can't see that I'd be able to use more power on the street than it has now. The car reaches 600 RWTQ by 1,700 RPM right now with about 8.5-9 psi (it has a 10 psi pulley, but the boost is lower due to the flow of the heads).
I'll give it a try sometime (increasing the boost) soon and see what it does.
There are people like Todd and Trent that have already run close to there at 12 psi. But, once they did more work to the motors, the boost went down and the power went up due to higher airflow through the engine.
As odd as it sounds, I'm not sure the Dynojet is actually able to show the true gain of the W/M injection as guys like Todd pick up a lot more MPH in the 1/4 compared to what the dyno shows they gained. The entire intake gets much colder driving than it does on a 4.5 second dyno pull.
Regards,
Sean
1BADSNK
Enthusiast
To Mike,
No excuses from me, but....
Sean,
I'm sure you have fixed some bugs by now but I have to, I actually must defend my car once again. It is a 2000-2002 but there is NOTHING wrong with my car. It produces good #'s for the mods it has. You told me back then that my 525rwhp/550rwtq (after several attempts to tune it)with your s/c and Vec2 was low because my car was a 2000-2002 and that they typically produce less HP from the factory than the other years. When I asked other board members why my #'s were low that was when your s/c was still on it. As soon as I pulled the roe s/c off and dynoed my car on the same dyno without your s/c it produced 443rwhp/483rwtq. A difference of 82rwhp/67rwtq. Not good.
As far as misfire codes. Don't you remember I had to/did buy another PCM from you with your s/c so all the codes would go away and I still had misfire codes 0303 and 0306(cylinder 3 & 6).
I have been told by other tuners and board members that my hp/tq #'s are right on the money or even better for the mods I had.
So my year nor my car has any HP problems that you speak of. At least not anymore it doesn't. It runs great now. I didn't give up on my Viper but thanks for your concern. I proudly have 3 nice Mustangs. I'm even going to get a Mustang/Viper tuner to put some old late 80's early 90's Mustang 5.0 technology(Paxton,fuel system,& tune) on the viper so it will really run.
I know you NEED to defend the s/c on here and that's cool with me but don't do it at my expense. I know what happened and it wasn't Chrysler's computer or cam it was the s/c kit.I'm just telling sparty116 a true, honest story, and experience of mine so he can make an honest decision. I wasn't calling you out, just telling the TRUTH.
But since you are blaming the 2000-2002 cars and most importantly mine, I also feel the NEED to defend my car.
No excuses from me, but....
Sean,
I'm sure you have fixed some bugs by now but I have to, I actually must defend my car once again. It is a 2000-2002 but there is NOTHING wrong with my car. It produces good #'s for the mods it has. You told me back then that my 525rwhp/550rwtq (after several attempts to tune it)with your s/c and Vec2 was low because my car was a 2000-2002 and that they typically produce less HP from the factory than the other years. When I asked other board members why my #'s were low that was when your s/c was still on it. As soon as I pulled the roe s/c off and dynoed my car on the same dyno without your s/c it produced 443rwhp/483rwtq. A difference of 82rwhp/67rwtq. Not good.
As far as misfire codes. Don't you remember I had to/did buy another PCM from you with your s/c so all the codes would go away and I still had misfire codes 0303 and 0306(cylinder 3 & 6).
I have been told by other tuners and board members that my hp/tq #'s are right on the money or even better for the mods I had.
So my year nor my car has any HP problems that you speak of. At least not anymore it doesn't. It runs great now. I didn't give up on my Viper but thanks for your concern. I proudly have 3 nice Mustangs. I'm even going to get a Mustang/Viper tuner to put some old late 80's early 90's Mustang 5.0 technology(Paxton,fuel system,& tune) on the viper so it will really run.
I know you NEED to defend the s/c on here and that's cool with me but don't do it at my expense. I know what happened and it wasn't Chrysler's computer or cam it was the s/c kit.I'm just telling sparty116 a true, honest story, and experience of mine so he can make an honest decision. I wasn't calling you out, just telling the TRUTH.
But since you are blaming the 2000-2002 cars and most importantly mine, I also feel the NEED to defend my car.
Hi Mike,
You must have read my reply with the wrong disposition.
There are plenty of 2000-2002's making the correct power numbers. But, when we see one low, it doesn't surprise me. Haven't you ever seen a 2000-2002 with headers, rockers and full exhaust only making 436 RWHP? It's not that unusual. Some make what the '96-'99's do, some do not.
When I referenced posts you made in the past about your car being low relative to others, I was think of this one in particular, where you did not have the SC:
THIS THREAD
Maybe I read it wrong wrong, but I got the impression you thought your power numbers were low for your mods based on that post.
Regards,
Sean
You must have read my reply with the wrong disposition.
There are plenty of 2000-2002's making the correct power numbers. But, when we see one low, it doesn't surprise me. Haven't you ever seen a 2000-2002 with headers, rockers and full exhaust only making 436 RWHP? It's not that unusual. Some make what the '96-'99's do, some do not.
When I referenced posts you made in the past about your car being low relative to others, I was think of this one in particular, where you did not have the SC:
THIS THREAD
Maybe I read it wrong wrong, but I got the impression you thought your power numbers were low for your mods based on that post.
Regards,
Sean
1TONY1
Enthusiast
Mods..... PLEASE add an
wned: smiley. Thanks1BADSNK
Enthusiast
Hey Sean,
I can't believe you want this topic of true actual events about my s/c you sold me and installed to keep going on this board but I'll gladly answer your post. Especially since you are insinuating that I must be ignorant or stupid in this matter. I will now go more in depth on what was wrong with the s/c you sold me. But first can you hear that sound, Che-Ching$,Che-Ching$,Che-Ching$, that's the sound of more TT kits and Paxton orders being placed.
Now to your post about my BTR Nitrous system #'s being lower than I thought they would. After my post I learned from my skillful tuner(Macedo) that my NOS kit(which I purchased used) was mix matched with some old BTR and some new BTR parts. And that both my tuner and myself agreed in the beginning to keep my A/F ratio #'s around 10 or 11:1 to be safe. After that post about my NOS I was educated that my #'s were lower than some not because of MY 2002(as you would hope) car but because of my NOS parts I used and most importantly my car never peaks the A/F ratio up to or pass 14:1+ like some do. So I am thrilled to have my NOS HP/TQ #'s that I do and know that it's at a safe level.
Guess what!
1. I don't have misfires on cylinder 3 & 6 anymore.
2. I don't pour black smoke out the exhaust when I hit it from that great tune.
3. My hood pad has been replaced and not melted or touching any engine parts(s/c)anymore.
4. I have alot more HP/TQ than your 82hp/67tq gave me.
5. No heat soak issues.
6. No hiccups in the computer program around 5k rpm.
7. It costs less
Here's some of the posts I was talking about when I complained about your powerful s/c:
THREAD 1
THREAD 2
THREAD 3
THREAD 4
THREAD 5
THREAD 6
THREAD 7
THREAD 8
Quote..."we tell everyone with a 2000-2002 that there’s a 70% chance the PCM will need to be changed to an earlier one."
Then maybe you should offer a 70% discount for the ones that have to go through that or develop a kit for the 2000-2002 specifically. Our even better offer a refund if they are not happy and the kit doesn't perform up to anyones standards. I didn't even get an apology for my troubles. Here's what your PCM stuff did for me. With my stock PCM I would leave your shop and get 2 miles down the road before throwing misfire codes. So when I became the 70% I bought your recommended earlier PCM. After that I could drive for a whole 20 mins. before It threw codes.
The way you tried to fix my melted hoodpad from your s/c was by raising my hood from it's stock Chrysler set location. It looked awful with that huge gap between my headlights and the hood and it still rubbed. You even lowered my engine some from it's stock location to try and make the DIY s/c kit fit. I don't know if you saw my face when you told me you were going to lower my engine settings some and raise my hood settings but I was in awe. I was thinking are we talking about Vipers or VW's here. This was about $7500 + $450 install,t.b,air box,tubes,and a 70%PCM(roughly $9k) for all this trouble.
The only 3 negative things I have ever heard said to me about my car was when your s/c was on it. I was told once at a gas station by a stranger.
"Hey I saw you blip the throttle in 1st gear back there. Did you know that there was black smoke coming out of the exhaust?"
2nd comment I would hear from family and friends:
"Is your hood closed? Why is there a big gap where the hood closes then?"
3rd..."What is the black stuff on top of the blower?"
Needless to say I am better off now w/o the roe s/c and the trips back and forth to get a new card swiped in it and told, "Ok try this one for awhile and let me know. If it still has a hiccup around 5000 rpm bring it back and we'll try another one." Sean what about the cylinder misfire codes? "Oh don't worry about it. There is nothing we can do. Chrysler just has the parameters set too tight."
I've got more but since my motor never blew I'll keep it to what I personally experienced as true.
I can't believe you want this topic of true actual events about my s/c you sold me and installed to keep going on this board but I'll gladly answer your post. Especially since you are insinuating that I must be ignorant or stupid in this matter. I will now go more in depth on what was wrong with the s/c you sold me. But first can you hear that sound, Che-Ching$,Che-Ching$,Che-Ching$, that's the sound of more TT kits and Paxton orders being placed.
Now to your post about my BTR Nitrous system #'s being lower than I thought they would. After my post I learned from my skillful tuner(Macedo) that my NOS kit(which I purchased used) was mix matched with some old BTR and some new BTR parts. And that both my tuner and myself agreed in the beginning to keep my A/F ratio #'s around 10 or 11:1 to be safe. After that post about my NOS I was educated that my #'s were lower than some not because of MY 2002(as you would hope) car but because of my NOS parts I used and most importantly my car never peaks the A/F ratio up to or pass 14:1+ like some do. So I am thrilled to have my NOS HP/TQ #'s that I do and know that it's at a safe level.
Guess what!
1. I don't have misfires on cylinder 3 & 6 anymore.
2. I don't pour black smoke out the exhaust when I hit it from that great tune.
3. My hood pad has been replaced and not melted or touching any engine parts(s/c)anymore.
4. I have alot more HP/TQ than your 82hp/67tq gave me.
5. No heat soak issues.
6. No hiccups in the computer program around 5k rpm.
7. It costs less
Here's some of the posts I was talking about when I complained about your powerful s/c:
THREAD 1
THREAD 2
THREAD 3
THREAD 4
THREAD 5
THREAD 6
THREAD 7
THREAD 8
Quote..."we tell everyone with a 2000-2002 that there’s a 70% chance the PCM will need to be changed to an earlier one."
Then maybe you should offer a 70% discount for the ones that have to go through that or develop a kit for the 2000-2002 specifically. Our even better offer a refund if they are not happy and the kit doesn't perform up to anyones standards. I didn't even get an apology for my troubles. Here's what your PCM stuff did for me. With my stock PCM I would leave your shop and get 2 miles down the road before throwing misfire codes. So when I became the 70% I bought your recommended earlier PCM. After that I could drive for a whole 20 mins. before It threw codes.
The way you tried to fix my melted hoodpad from your s/c was by raising my hood from it's stock Chrysler set location. It looked awful with that huge gap between my headlights and the hood and it still rubbed. You even lowered my engine some from it's stock location to try and make the DIY s/c kit fit. I don't know if you saw my face when you told me you were going to lower my engine settings some and raise my hood settings but I was in awe. I was thinking are we talking about Vipers or VW's here. This was about $7500 + $450 install,t.b,air box,tubes,and a 70%PCM(roughly $9k) for all this trouble.
The only 3 negative things I have ever heard said to me about my car was when your s/c was on it. I was told once at a gas station by a stranger.
"Hey I saw you blip the throttle in 1st gear back there. Did you know that there was black smoke coming out of the exhaust?"
2nd comment I would hear from family and friends:
"Is your hood closed? Why is there a big gap where the hood closes then?"
3rd..."What is the black stuff on top of the blower?"
Needless to say I am better off now w/o the roe s/c and the trips back and forth to get a new card swiped in it and told, "Ok try this one for awhile and let me know. If it still has a hiccup around 5000 rpm bring it back and we'll try another one." Sean what about the cylinder misfire codes? "Oh don't worry about it. There is nothing we can do. Chrysler just has the parameters set too tight."
I've got more but since my motor never blew I'll keep it to what I personally experienced as true.
this is the only case I have EVER heard of something like this (or anything for that matter) happen to a Roe blower, its just a given that the 2000+ vipers can only run about 5 psi so you must have known the gains would NOT be outragous (like mine will be soon) besides you have to keep in mine Vipers are hand built which makes it subject to human error.
For example it burned your hood pad, what does that say?? your hood was lower then someone else because as far as I know all the blowers are the same size.
Another example how is it that 2 vipers (same year) with the same mods can make diffrent power and fuel curve?? and the same HAS TO go for superchargers as well,turbos ect.
As far as the PCM goes its been well documented on here and the a!!ey that 2000 and up ARE prone to throw codes (and be sensitive).
Honestly I don't think Sean we out to hurt anyone, Look at my sig everything I bought was from Sean (and dave) and he has always treated me great, hell just 2 weeks ago I bought something online that I dident need and they called me up and said "what did you buy that for" I thought I needed it "no no no send it back and We'll refund you" they dident have to do that, thats HONESTY.
Look im not trying to discredit you at all im sure you did have issues with your car but you had quite a few factors against you.
1. 2000 and up
2.car hand built (I.E hood ect.)
3.pcm
4.The S/C were really new back then and they have come along way since then.
I honestly dont believe that Sean was out to screw you AT ALL, It looks as tho you just had some misfortune with your car, and im glad you got it all worked out.
For example it burned your hood pad, what does that say?? your hood was lower then someone else because as far as I know all the blowers are the same size.
Another example how is it that 2 vipers (same year) with the same mods can make diffrent power and fuel curve?? and the same HAS TO go for superchargers as well,turbos ect.
As far as the PCM goes its been well documented on here and the a!!ey that 2000 and up ARE prone to throw codes (and be sensitive).
Honestly I don't think Sean we out to hurt anyone, Look at my sig everything I bought was from Sean (and dave) and he has always treated me great, hell just 2 weeks ago I bought something online that I dident need and they called me up and said "what did you buy that for" I thought I needed it "no no no send it back and We'll refund you" they dident have to do that, thats HONESTY.
Look im not trying to discredit you at all im sure you did have issues with your car but you had quite a few factors against you.
1. 2000 and up
2.car hand built (I.E hood ect.)
3.pcm
4.The S/C were really new back then and they have come along way since then.
I honestly dont believe that Sean was out to screw you AT ALL, It looks as tho you just had some misfortune with your car, and im glad you got it all worked out.
1BADSNK
Enthusiast
STUGOTS
It might be the only case you have heard of on this code of silence board between tuners and members, but it definately isn't the only case out there, according even to Sean.
I admit that the 2000-2002 computer probably is more sensitive than others but how bout a specific roe s/c kit be sold for say less money since it might(or did in my case) produce less power and troubles than other buyers. That way 2000-2002 owners will be made aware up front and not after the fact of possible misfortunes and disappointment.
I don't believe Sean was out to screw me either. Fact is his s/c just plain didn't perform well on my car and I paid the same as everyone else. Fact. There's no arguing that.
This post was for someone(sparty116) wondering if 900rwhp can be had with a roe s/c. There are several opinions out there. My opinion was for him to try it instead with a Paxton,fuel system,and tune. I shared a real life experience of mine with him so he could be more informed. Then it turned out to be there was something mysteriously wrong with my car and basically I didn't know what I was talking about.
BTW my roe s/c kit was taken off exactly 1 year ago this month. I purchased it in Oct. 2003 till March 2004. Not 2 years ago folks. Sean told me then that my kit was #125. That means there was ample time to get it right since there were 124 older ones out there.
I've proven my point!!!!!
End of Story.
It might be the only case you have heard of on this code of silence board between tuners and members, but it definately isn't the only case out there, according even to Sean.
I admit that the 2000-2002 computer probably is more sensitive than others but how bout a specific roe s/c kit be sold for say less money since it might(or did in my case) produce less power and troubles than other buyers. That way 2000-2002 owners will be made aware up front and not after the fact of possible misfortunes and disappointment.
I don't believe Sean was out to screw me either. Fact is his s/c just plain didn't perform well on my car and I paid the same as everyone else. Fact. There's no arguing that.
This post was for someone(sparty116) wondering if 900rwhp can be had with a roe s/c. There are several opinions out there. My opinion was for him to try it instead with a Paxton,fuel system,and tune. I shared a real life experience of mine with him so he could be more informed. Then it turned out to be there was something mysteriously wrong with my car and basically I didn't know what I was talking about.
BTW my roe s/c kit was taken off exactly 1 year ago this month. I purchased it in Oct. 2003 till March 2004. Not 2 years ago folks. Sean told me then that my kit was #125. That means there was ample time to get it right since there were 124 older ones out there.
I've proven my point!!!!!
End of Story.
BlueGTS
Viper Owner
Mike, I am glad you posted your experience with the ROE blower. Because of your post I will make sure to check my hood pad closely to see if any rubbing is taking place. A person posting differing opinions on a popular upgrades is healthy for everyone. One thing everyone should not forget is when you add forced induction to any car you could run into some headaches. The Viper rolled of the assembly line NA so when we add a SC or TT there is some tuning and time that needs to be taken to get everything right. Some go easy some never work at all. I believe Sean has done his best to make the install go as easily as possible but in your case with your car it was not going to work. I am willing to bet that you are not the only one this has happened to. Does this mean I am not going to install my SC in the next 2 weeks? No, I will install it and see how it goes. It is a modification and sometimes modifications do not run like stock.
As for Sean giving a discount to 2000+ vipers, I think that is crazy. Sean has the same overhead and material cost no matte what 2nd Gen kit he sends out. His getting paid should not be tied to how much HP I make. He sent the same kit to me as he did to you and I hope I get more HP out of mine than you got out of yours. If however I do not, I will not blame Sean or ask for a refund.
As for Sean giving a discount to 2000+ vipers, I think that is crazy. Sean has the same overhead and material cost no matte what 2nd Gen kit he sends out. His getting paid should not be tied to how much HP I make. He sent the same kit to me as he did to you and I hope I get more HP out of mine than you got out of yours. If however I do not, I will not blame Sean or ask for a refund.
LTHL-GRY
Enthusiast
I sure would like to have you as a customer...
In my business I only get paid when my performance is what was agreed to beforehand. I think this is a good standard and should apply to everyone.
theres no way you can with cars not fairly anyway.
Like I mentioned in an earlier post 2 people with the same year/model with the same mods will have diffrent HP/TQ #'s, so should I not pay B&B because my exhaust dident give me as much HP as it did on joe Blows car????
Or better yet should I not pay dodge because my car came with less HP/TQ then joe blows off the showroom floor??
