Changing brake pads; need help!

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">I haven't done a set myself yet, but I am told the rears (which are actually Dakota fronts I think) need to be screwed into their bores. There is a tool for this, but I think a long nose plier might work too. There should be two holes in the bottom of the piston that you'll need to engage.

I'd recommend picking up a shop manual if your going to get into working on your Snake....</FONT f>

 

[Paul Fischer]

Ron is correct, a pair of needle nose pliers inserted into the holes will be able to rotate the pistons back to flush. There is actually a tool for this, I imagine your local tool supply could set you up.

The fronts are a piece of cake, no rotating required. make sure to check the piston liners while you are in there. If you've done any track work (unlikely in the last few months but maybe those pads have been in there a while...) to the extent that the "Viper" decal on the front calipers is anything but white in color your lining may be fatigued.

 

[Frank 03SRT]

Whatever you do, don't push, cram, or force them back. You could screw the mechanism up.

 

[GTS Dean]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Aaron96GTS:
I am changing the pads and rotors on my 96 GTS on both the front and the rear. Any tips for doing the rest of the brakes? I have tried about every thing.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


On the fronts: instead of a spreader, I remove the pads one at a time. I rotate the pad 90 degrees and reinsert far enough to get the leading or trailing edge of the backing plate even with the piston centerlines (contacting both simultaneously). Then I use the pad as a lever and the rotor OD as a fulcrum to retract the pistons using the palm of my hand. Works great!