Clunking from the rear when going over bumps?

[Guy]

Does this clunk everyone is hearing, sound like the clunk your seat would make if it wasn't locked properly into place on the seat rail? A sort of "clunk" into position. I feel it behind me, or the driver's side, and practically feel it!

Strangely enough the right side shock seems to be leaking, but very weird that I feel all this on the left side (driver's side).

It's quite rare by the way, maybe happens once or twice when I'm at slow speeds...

 

[escapedan]

Ok, so I removed both rear wheels and tightened every nut and bolt I could see. Sway bar end links, bolts under the a-arms, shock top and bottom bolts, bolts holding the a-arms to the frame, etc. I took the car for a test drive and thought I nailed it because the clunking was gone. No sooner, it started up again. It seems to start when the car is warmed up - maybe after 10-15 miles or so. Any more suggestions? It really sounds like its coming from the rear or directly under the seats...

 

[escapedan]

Guy, the sound I am hearing sounds more like a "knock" then a "clunk". Also, it does not happen over every bump. I tried leaving it in one gear (1st, 2nd, and 3rd) and "bucked" the car (on and off the gas) and the knock didn't happen with any regularity. It seems to happen at random times, a few times a minute. The only way I can reproduce it with any consistency is when I roll to a slow stop and hit the brakes hard at the very end. When it "settles" back into place the knock seems to happen. Tranny mount? Motor mount?

 

[escapedan]

I did some more reading on this forum and came across a thread called "shock knock" which essentially says the bolts used to hold the shocks and suspension on in the 03+ SRT-10s are not exactly the right size. It had a link to a shop called Viper Specialties that sells replacement bolts intended to make the knocking go away. I purchased a set of these bolts for $50 including shipping....we'll see. Does anyone have any experience with them?

Here's a link to the product
https://www.viperspecialtyperforman...47_57&osCsid=3b15a2dd2cf1d9d79df0074c51e8a4f2

 

[Westxsrt10]

I did some more reading on this forum and came across a thread called "shock knock" which essentially says the bolts used to hold the shocks and suspension on in the 03+ SRT-10s are not exactly the right size. It had a link to a shop called Viper Specialties that sells replacement bolts intended to make the knocking go away. I purchased a set of these bolts for $50 including shipping....we'll see. Does anyone have any experience with them?

Here's a link to the product
https://www.viperspecialtyperforman...47_57&osCsid=3b15a2dd2cf1d9d79df0074c51e8a4f2

That may fix your problem... I think it's the shock or the mounting bolt. Mine was fixed under warrenty (new shock).

 

[Guy]

Ok, so I removed both rear wheels and tightened every nut and bolt I could see. Sway bar end links, bolts under the a-arms, shock top and bottom bolts, bolts holding the a-arms to the frame, etc. I took the car for a test drive and thought I nailed it because the clunking was gone. No sooner, it started up again. It seems to start when the car is warmed up - maybe after 10-15 miles or so. Any more suggestions? It really sounds like its coming from the rear or directly under the seats...

I don't get it the sound as often as you do, but definitely feel it under my seat too. When I get it, it's usually when I'm easing off clutch in 1st gear to slowly move the car forward, and sometimes when I'm slowly reversing. It is quite infrequent though. About once every two times I take the car for a spin.

I'm going to jack the car up again and check all the bolts along with a printout of this thread.. Very weird!

 

[Bristolrover]

Had this clunk on my '04 and found it to be a loose swaybar mount bolt. Now I have the same clunk on my 'o6 coupe only worse. Just got back from a 600 mile road trip and it's even louder now. There's a clack when I pull away from a dead stop, like a brakepad is knocking but when I pull away with the brakes just touched and the handbrake just slightly pulled it still makes it....I have been all over the back of the car but I'm gonna find it, sooner or later.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Some have founfd that it was the ball joints. Grease up the upper and lower. Clunk goes away.

 

[J ACR2000]

Sent my Konis to get rebuilt. Back on , same rattle. While rechecking everthing, found slack where bottom of right rear shock connects to lower control arm. With car jacked up, I couldbounce tire up and down and hear and see the(rattle) Dealer said there was no bushing there , would have to replace control arm. Havent done this yet. Anyone else done this??

 

[Viper Specialty]

I have seen a rash of Vipers with loose suspension bolts, especially cars which had previously been aligned... since it seems Torque Wrenches are an outdated tool these days. :RollEyes:

Also, the bolt that Chuck mentions, as well as tops which when stowed are not up against the bumpers, so they rattle against the latch. [adjust bumpers up]

 

[Asp]

I (the Dodge dealer) had been chasing a low speed clunk that is comming from the right rear of the car. There intial diagnose was that the rear end was trashed. So upon there advice I had them repalce the rear end with a new one. I picked up the car, and it still made the clunking noise starting out and backing up. So I took it back, the Viper tech said that he called the factory and the clunk I was hearing is susposed to be there. He continued on to state that the clunk is comming from the slope in the drive line, and that is where the cluking is comming from (I am phraphsing). Now I have noticed the clunk under hard accleration.

 

[Bristolrover]

How about putting the car on jack stands and putting it in gear and try to duplicate the clunk. Have someone stick their ear down there and listen for it. Not a friend or loved one, of course......

 

[SteveT]

Check those suspension bolts!

http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-s...-coupe-home-but-there-one-little-problem.html

 

[TrackAire]

I too had the "knock" sound coming from the rear passenger side of my coupe. Started at 1000 miles and got a little worse. Only made the noise when going up and down driveways at an angle or over small bumps at very low speeds, like in parking lots.

I'm assuming at higher speeds the exhaust/engine/road noise hid the knock.

Last Friday I found that the sway bar link (both top and bottom) nut was just every so slightly loose. Less than 1/2 turn to full tightness. Just did a 200 mile run yesterday and the noise is gone. I'm suspecting that it will come back....just something about this style of endlinks that needs to have an eye kept on them.

Cheers,
George

 

[Nsane1]

My 08 has this... FUN, that and my Bellanger CEL, combined with a 97 needing tires, and an 03 with no A/C, makes me think I need 4 to keep one running 100%.

 

[Nyoka]

That may fix your problem... I think it's the shock or the mounting bolt. Mine was fixed under warrenty (new shock).

My '08 Coupe (15,000 miles) is in the "clunk" rather than "knock" category; reminiscent of 60's MOPAR ring gear when engaged with an auto at stall speed. It started about a month ago and is only evident at low RPM, in first gear from a dead stop and can be intermittent. It's often accompanied by a ratcheting sound/spring loading noise so my first thought is loose/badly seated shocks/coils. Worst fear is multi-clutch diff. Major annoyance as I'm reluctant to get into it for fear of leaving the rear end scattered all over the road.

Appreciate the inputs re: sway bars, frame bolts, etc., as I'm heading for the dealer this weekend to isolate the problem (before pulling the diff). Will report what we find.

 

[Y2K10 SRT#39]

I have seen a rash of Vipers with loose suspension bolts, especially cars which had previously been aligned... since it seems Torque Wrenches are an outdated tool these days. :RollEyes: [adjust bumpers up]

I too had the loose shock bolts, and the shock rattle over bumps so I replaced them with Viper Specialty's shock bolt kit. It was like magic. Also the "A" frame bolts were not tightened to spec.

PBR

 

[escapedan]

UPDATE - I purchased and installed the "shock knock bolt kit" from Viper Specialties and while the bolts do seem much better then stock, it did nothing for my knocking problem. I've tightened every bolt on or around the rear suspension, but am going to check the sway bar bushings again just to be sure. The knocking does not start until the car is warm - after driving for about 10 minutes. When I parked the car tonight I was able to easily reproduce the knock by pushing down on the driver side rear bumper then "lifting" up the driver side rear body (by pulling on the wheel well and rear bumper. It really sounds like the knock is coming from in-front of the driver side rear wheel - like near the driver side exhaust. Any other suggestions? I'm going insane!!!!!

 

[escapedan]

I just reproduced the knocking sound (while parked, but warm) and had my wife listen closely for where it was coming from. She swears its from the top of the driver side shock...

 

[29OUTLAW]

Has to be exhaust related if it only does it when hot. That exhuast changes position at least 3/4" when it gets hot.

 

[Nyoka]

My '08 Coupe (15,000 miles) is in the "clunk" rather than "knock" category; reminiscent of 60's MOPAR ring gear when engaged with an auto at stall speed. It started about a month ago and is only evident at low RPM, in first gear from a dead stop and can be intermittent. It's often accompanied by a ratcheting sound/spring loading noise so my first thought is loose/badly seated shocks/coils. Worst fear is multi-clutch diff. Major annoyance as I'm reluctant to get into it for fear of leaving the rear end scattered all over the road.

Appreciate the inputs re: sway bars, frame bolts, etc., as I'm heading for the dealer this weekend to isolate the problem (before pulling the diff). Will report what we find.

Update: Tightened every nut and bolt under the car: one was finger tight (center bolt on transmission mount to frame). Shift smoothness improved, obviously, but noise still there. Shocks, swaybar, control arms all good. Viper techie suggested invisible hairline cracks (metal fatigue) in hollow driveshaft could be the culprit. Looked fine but replaced it anyway (3-day delivery, BTW - thank you Chrysler!); clunk still there.

We're pretty sure now that it's the diff; techie talking to Chrysler before ordering replacement. Hoping to resolve before I put the car away for the winter and will update.

 

[SNKEBIT]

Some have founfd that it was the ball joints. Grease up the upper and lower. Clunk goes away.

YUP!!!! Grease the ball joints!!! Have found them dry from factory!!!!!

 

[Nyoka]

YUP!!!! Grease the ball joints!!! Have found them dry from factory!!!!!

Mine were fine.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Ball joints can still make noise even if they have grease if there is a fitments issue with them. You would need to use a stethoscope on the joints from under the car to be sure, listen to each upper and lower joint and eliminate this first.

 

[Nyoka]

Ball joints can still make noise even if they have grease if there is a fitments issue with them. You would need to use a stethoscope on the joints from under the car to be sure, listen to each upper and lower joint and eliminate this first.

Appreciate the input and will pass on to my Viper technician - many thanks. How would you explain the spring-loading sound that accompanies the clunk? I first thought it might be a badly seated coil spring, or even the (tranny) clutch itself but all is well there. Is it a coincidence that the diff has clutches? Could they be 'reacting' as the ring gear/pinions engage?

 

[Nyoka]

To clarify: the noise in mine is not associated with going over bumps. The sound appears as I accelerate from a dead stop, slowly, in first. Most recently (following driveshaft replacement) it showed up after shifting into second, as well.

 

[29OUTLAW]

To clarify: the noise in mine is not associated with going over bumps. The sound appears as I accelerate from a dead stop, slowly, in first. Most recently (following driveshaft replacement) it showed up after shifting into second, as well.

Is your noise more of a snapping noise than a clunking noise? Sounds kind of like you crushed a walnut or acorn?

 

[Nyoka]

Is your noise more of a snapping noise than a clunking noise? Sounds kind of like you crushed a walnut or acorn?

Nope; sounds like u-joint/ring gear play: it's heavy and metallic.

 

[29OUTLAW]

I get a little noise about 25% of the time when I take off in 1st gear with the wheel turned. Been happening since the car was new (2005 w/27,000 miles now). For years I used to think I ran over an acorn or twig or something because that's exactly what it sounds like. It's never gotten any worse and never gotten any more frequent and it doesn't seem to cause any issues so I've lived with it. My car is all stock and there's no way I'm gonna let anyone around here tear it apart just for that.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Appreciate the input and will pass on to my Viper technician - many thanks. How would you explain the spring-loading sound that accompanies the clunk? I first thought it might be a badly seated coil spring, or even the (tranny) clutch itself but all is well there. Is it a coincidence that the diff has clutches? Could they be 'reacting' as the ring gear/pinions engage?

Ball joint can be bound up and "snap" loose causing this type of sound.