coolant in oil AND oil in coolant GEN II using brand new head gaskets

[hemibeep]

Okay, I know there is a lot of discussion about GEN I and head gaskets/coolant leaks.

But, what about a GEN II with:
1. brand new head gaskets
2. new timing cover gasket
3. fresh milled heads

This is not blowing "Steam" out exhaust, so the coolant is not getting into cylinders. The coolant tank does have oil rings around it and the oil does have coolant in it. yes, the coolant is going down (into oil pan) and needs filled at 50 miles (I have stopped driving now)

anyone with a fresh GEN II have these problems/symptoms?
CURE?

 

[Ulysses]

I would have someone check how straight the surface of the block is and how straight the heads are again. You're going to have to pull it apart again anyway. Unfortunate.


Edit: I would check the head bolts first, though.
And pressure check the cylinders.

 

[Got_Vnum]

Damn thats a tough one. I just had the same problem but mine was the timing chain gasket.

 

[ROCKET62]

Sorry to hear about your difficulties. You may be able to pressurize the coolant system to try to listen for the problem area. Couple of areas to consider: Timing cover gasket, head gaskets, cylinder liner sleeve seals. Good luck.

 

[GTS Dean]

...cylinder liner sleeve seals.

Gen 2 motors have dry sleeve blocks.

 

[hemibeep]

It is #7 cylinder. This is also the area of my motor "tick" which turns out to be a cracked piston skirt.

The way to find the leak is very simple. Drop the oil pan, borrow a coolant system test kit, and pump it up to 16 PSI. I just got under the car and looked for the "rain".

Now just need to pull motor and replace #7 piston....

 

[viperkraz]

Not to be a dick, but are all of the head bolts torqued to spec? Check the heads and block for warp. Where the heads milled with CBN cutter or ground with stones? Only reasons I can think of.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Why pull the engine out?

 

[99 R/T 10]

I would pull the engine to. It's just seems to be easier to work on out and away from the car.

 

[Jay Herbert]

I would pull the engine to. It's just seems to be easier to work on out and away from the car.

To just replace a piston.... access is fine with the head and pan off (which he already has done).

But if the leak was the timing chain gasket, he'll likely pull the engine anyway to fix that.

 

[1TONY1]

I would not pull the motor for the head gasket or the timing cover unless there is a deck issue with the block. Did the water cause the piston to break ? Just be sure to check that sleeve....it is a dry sleeve, but with enough damage it can bust the block around the sleeve. I'm also concerned with the water/antifreeze in bearings/rings etc.....maybe you could drain all water and oil and start it up with just fresh oil back in it. If you don't delay with the repairs it should be ok.

 

[hemibeep]

This damage to piston was directly related to wreck. This piston was kissed by intake valve. I should have checked closer while motor was out in the first place. I am hoping that this is a gasket breakdown. BUT, could be a block problem. Has anyone seen block damage from a similar situation?

Motor will come out this time, just to be accurate on diagnosis.

The 211 miles we shared together so far were great. Now, I need to get these repairs done so I can burn off the Kuhmos.

 

[1TONY1]

If you had a valve/piston problem, I would also pressure check the head. In fact, I might do that before pulling the engine. Could be cracked/busted around the valve guide area. Why pull the engine if it's just a gasket or the head ?

 

[hemibeep]

Good point. The heads were off and did indeed have a stage II port job. Heads were decked .010. Heads were checked out pretty good, but NOT magnafluxed. My only real concern is the lack of "steam" in the exhaust that is typical of bad head gasket. Sooo, if not "steaming" then where is the water coming from in that cylinder? If it were a cracked sleeve, than perhaps the cylinder pressure keeps water out on compression and only allows water in AFTER the piston is up and past the crack.? Just too many unknowns. I will start by pulling that head and inspect before pulling the motor....

 

[1TONY1]

I will start by pulling that head and inspect before pulling the motor....

That's the best way to start.
A water leak above the piston does not mean it has to steam.......I hope the leak is above the piston, because: on a gen2 block (like was said above) it is a dry sleeve, meaning the sleeve is surrounded by an aluminum cylinder (the block) If you took the sleeve out....there should be no water leaks etc. Gen1 is wet, meaning the sleeve is in contact with water. The block could probably be repaired, that's just IMO the worst, most time consuming thing to get in to.

 

[Jack B]

Is everyone else confused, how do all these apparent problems comes together:

1. Valve hitting piston and how was this known.
2. Cracked skirt
3. Raining anti-freeze.

Like Tony offered, these are dry sleeves and a bad skirt shouldn't cause a coolant leak, more likely the other way around, but, how did the valve hit the piston. Hopefully the outcome is better than the diagnosis.

 

[carguy07]

Is everyone else confused, how do all these apparent problems comes together:

1. Valve hitting piston and how was this known.
2. Cracked skirt
3. Raining anti-freeze.

Like Tony offered, these are dry sleeves and a bad skirt shouldn't cause a coolant leak, more likely the other way around, but, how did the valve hit the piston. Hopefully the outcome is better than the diagnosis.

I thought I was missing something too?? If you got rain, then the piston is the least of your worries.

 

[hemibeep]

Here is the root of the problem:

A part of the intake was jammed into the intake valve on the cylinder with the cracked piston skirt. The piston was kissed by the valve. actually 8 intake valves were at least slightly bent. The heads were ported and milled .010. The piston replacement is no problem and was found by pulling the pan and trying to find the water leak. Finding the root of the "rain" is the issue. Hopefully gasket. If not obvious, I will the pull motor and have block checked for a crack(s). Really just want to get the car fixed and on road.