Easy way to replace clutch pedal bushing.

sfm79

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Open the hood and remove the washer fluid reservoir.

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Use a 2 1/2" hole saw to drill an access hole.

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Now you have access to the "E" clip and basket clip.

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Pop off the basket clip to release the master cylinder shaft.

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Slid off the "E" clip without loosing it.

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Now you can remove the pedal off the shaft from inside the car. Clean it, lube it, and put on the new nylon bushing.

Install the pedal back on the shaft fron inside and put the clips back on from the access hole.

Install a 2 1/2" body plug ($2.50) in the hole.

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Re-install the washer bottle.

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Chuck 98 RT/10

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That is slick. There is no way getting to that bushing would be easier than this. Thanks for the tip. Admins put this in the illustrated how-to section!
 

Steve-Indy

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AGREE with Chuck about getting under the dash !!

There is another "trick" that helps on a Gen II...that is non-invasive. I'll have to let Mr. Sessions give it up when he's ready. :)
 

eucharistos

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AGREE with Chuck about getting under the dash !!

There is another "trick" that helps on a Gen II...that is non-invasive. I'll have to let Mr. Sessions give it up when he's ready. :)

spill the beans steve :eater:

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sfm79

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I've had mine break a couple times. Changed it from under the dash in under 5 mins each time with no drilling.Maybe Gen 1's are easier, but noway is a drill needed.

You replaced the clutch pedal nylon bushing/sleeve in 5 minutes, I'm impressed V10 SpeedLuvr. I can't even get my ass in position under the dash in 5 minutes. How are your bushings breaking? I thought they just wear down over time.
 

MoparMap

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I ended up pulling the whole pedal assembly when I fixed my mom's 94... Then again I also went a little different route and bought a bronze bushing from the hardware store that I sanded down to the right size to replace the nylon. Sooo much better pedal feel than the crappy busted nylon one that was in there. The pedal was actually catching on the frame that holds them and keeping the clutch switch from pushing down to start it was so wobbly.
 

Steve-Indy

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Poor OLD Tom Sessions must be too busy to post his "trick" for stubborn Gen II Vipers referenced above.

On a Gen II, there is a large harness that exits the PCM and goes to the body...and, it goes through the outer side toe box near the rear of the toe box (just behind the fuse box). By unplugging this harness then CAREFULLY pushing theremaining hard plastic connector INTO the toe box, and further maneuvering it out ot the way, one gets a clear view of the "birdcage". DO NOT force this plug when moving it into the toe box...be gentle !!

Hopefully Tom will correct any descriptive errors that I may have introduced in this post.
 

Dom426h

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You're a young lad. Us older guys don't wanna be climbing under any dashboards.

+1, but im only a buck40 and dont like contorting myself to screw around down there. Removing the seat is my trick. 4-bolts have her out in 5min:2tu:
 

Dom426h

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lx, the biggest benefit is that they are all in one section easily accessible so you dont have to search and search for them. I love the search feature of forums but sometimes you just cant find stuff and threads seam to disappear...

I dont have a prob with DYI threads being left where they were created though and just duplicated to be added to the DIY section.
Furthermore, there are plenty of other dodge & viper forums that you are welcome to to post DIY's for everyone to see. Heck, you could even.... post it on its own website.
 

V10SpeedLuvr

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You replaced the clutch pedal nylon bushing/sleeve in 5 minutes, I'm impressed V10 SpeedLuvr. I can't even get my ass in position under the dash in 5 minutes. How are your bushings breaking? I thought they just wear down over time.

My mistake. What has broken twice on my car is the plastic basket clip. Those can be replaced in under 5 mins. The bushing you're talking about is a PITA. Mine did wear down and split in 2, but I had a friend/Viper owner replace it vs. doing it myself.

On a unrelated note/tip, those basket clips do break (I've had 2 break since 05'). Since they are under $5 each, I just keep a couple spares in my trunk incase 1 does pop. If they break, you can normally get the pedal back on the shaft good enough to nurse the car back home, but I like having the spares already with me.
 
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sfm79

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That's a good idea V10SpeedLuvr, I think I'll pick a couple up and keep with me. I thought I read somewhere about drilling a small hole in the post and using a cotter pin to hold the shaft on instead of the basket clip.
 

V10SpeedLuvr

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That's a good idea V10SpeedLuvr, I think I'll pick a couple up and keep with me. I thought I read somewhere about drilling a small hole in the post and using a cotter pin to hold the shaft on instead of the basket clip.

That is a permanent fix, but since it's more involved, I'll just use up my spare clips 1st and then tackle the drilling idea.
 

Jeffsss

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Very cool.

I'm going to try to use a different birdcage from Doug Levin. But will keep this thread in mind and might look into a more serious method of retaining that clip
 

Bowtie

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Thank you for the excellent tip. I plan putting cotter pin and washer to keep the crappy plastic bushing on place.
 
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