Factory Alignment Specs

Viperless

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Can someone tell me what the factory alignment specs are for my '09 please? Searched the site and all I could find was performance alignment settings. Still waiting for my service manual to arrive. I did an initial check before I installed the Motons and want to verify my readings.

I found this on the net in a story about the '08 Viper. -1.4 degrees?

"That said, the Viper is still all about fast driving on a track. Spring rates that are 5 percent firmer preserve the overall wheel rate of the previous suspension calibration, and shock damping has been adjusted to capitalize on the capability of the new rubber. This setup also allows increased negative camber in the static alignment (now negative 1.4 degrees at every wheel)."

Also found this. How can the alignment be set differently in three different positions?

"In a process normally performed only on race cars, an alignment machine sets caster and camber at normal ride height, and then at jounce and at rebound (upward and downward travel of suspension). The 2008 Dodge Viper SRT10 is the only U.S. production vehicle set up for such alignment at the factory; it uses a machine that aligns all four wheels off their wheel hubs, moving them up and down in their suspension travel and setting alignment in three different positions."
 
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What they are doing is insuring that the bump travel has the least affect that it can on the alignment. The Viper can be shimmed and adjusted to optimize this and make the travel negligible. The -1.4 on the new cars was there to optimize the new PS2 tires softer side walls. Toe should be "in" in the rear about .20 degrees and 0 in the front, maybe even in .05 degrees total for stability or out the same for turn in crispness.
 
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Viperless

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What they are doing is insuring that the bump travel has the least affect that it can on the alignment. The Viper can be shimmed and adjusted to optimize this and make the travel negligible. The -1.4 on the new cars was there to optimize the new PS2 tires softer side walls. Toe should be "in" in the rear about .20 degrees and 0 in the front, maybe even in .05 degrees total for stability or out the same for turn in crispness.

Thanks Mark.

So the -1.4 degrees on all four corners is correct then? When I measured it, I kept thinking this can't be right. But I checked it several times. Camber on the left side front & rear was .25 degrees more negative than the right. I also came up with 1/16" toe in front and 3/32" toe in rear. Interesting that the car dropped 1 1/4" when I installed the Motons which increased camber by about .5 degrees negative but the toe stayed exactly the same.
 
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Thanks Mark.

So the -1.4 degrees on all four corners is correct then? When I measured it, I kept thinking this can't be right. But I checked it several times. Camber on the left side front & rear was .25 degrees more negative than the right. I also came up with 1/16" toe in front and 3/32" toe in rear. Interesting that the car dropped 1 1/4" when I installed the Motons which increased camber by about .5 degrees negative but the toe stayed exactly the same.

There are lot's of variables when it comes to alignment machines so .25 degrees is probable. The toe pattern should not change if it is set up correctly at least not much. The camber gain when dropped is also normal. I have mine set with more negative camber in the front by about 1 degree so the rear tires have more even contact for power on situations :)
 

VicTxV10

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My car is an 06 and had run flats on it. I have since put on PS2's, do I need to get a new alignment to the above specs?
 
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