Fixed my warped fascia opening. PICS

RikRok

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Like a few other Gen 1's, my fascia opening was all warped. The foam insert was missing. Even if it was there, it was beyond helping. So when I decided to pull the fascia for repainting, I found a great CHEAP fix.

Here it was before.
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I took a piece of aluminum bar and riveted across the bottom of the lower opening. I figured after painting, the rivet heads wouldn't show, or if they did, it would look appropriate. I took a few thin strips of wood and clamped it from the front to leave about a 1" gap from the inside.
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Then I took a can of expanding foam and half way filled the gap, once it expanded it glued the upper and lower lip together.
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Then I trimmed it off flush.
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Off to the body shop for repair and painting, then back on.
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I am going to let the paint cure a little, then put Sneaky Pete back on.
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Rick
 

AFL in NJ

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Great job, I've got a spare front fascia in my attic and I was looking for an idea such as this!!! Thanks a TON!!!

Regards,
Aaron
 

Rollin4

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Thanks for the post. I was looking at my 94 yesterday trying to figure out how to stop my center bar section from sagging on the bottom. Problem solved. Thanks
 
D

DAMN YANKEE

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Definately, a good piece...

I would like to see the technique to finish off the top edge.

Did you use a spacer as well to hold the shape in the center section? Wouldn't it would be a good idea, right in the center?

Please state product used for the foam. Some of this foam degrades superfast with both sunlight and high heat.

Very clever, lightweight fix!
 

dave6666

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Yeah... I can see that one pic. I hate 2008 so far.

Would like to see more in regards to the "row of rivets."

I did not want anything to show, but had the benefit of tying it in to the fascia kit as shown in my pics, and also had the foam filler.

Still would love to see more ideas.

CRAP!
 
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RikRok

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Definately, a good piece...

I would like to see the technique to finish off the top edge.

Did you use a spacer as well to hold the shape in the center section? Wouldn't it would be a good idea, right in the center?

Please state product used for the foam. Some of this foam degrades superfast with both sunlight and high heat.

Very clever, lightweight fix!

I did not use a spacer in the center of the bow. I cut the wood strips the length of the opening and when clamped give you a nice even gap. I just used a can of $5 expanding foam. Remember is expands about 2x's so it will want to spill out. Do not buy the non-expanding as it stays spongey and will not hold the pieces in place.
 

dave6666

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Well, now I can see the pics!!!

I guess with the Gen 1 there is no lip inside like on my Gen 2 to keep the rivets out of sight.

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Asp Man

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"I am going to let the paint cure a little, then put Sneaky Pete back on."

I'd consider leaving it off. You've got the cleanest look Viper of all, IMO, no hood gills, no side exit exh. Leaving the emblem off would make it that much cleaner, and easier to wax.

Side note: Do you still have the white 5 spokes that came on the car? Just curious...
 

ViperTony

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Thanks for the pics and tips. I noticed this was happening to my uncle's my uncle's Gen1 and now I know how to go about fixing it for him.
 
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RikRok

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"I am going to let the paint cure a little, then put Sneaky Pete back on."

I'd consider leaving it off. You've got the cleanest look Viper of all, IMO, no hood gills, no side exit exh. Leaving the emblem off would make it that much cleaner, and easier to wax.

Side note: Do you still have the white 5 spokes that came on the car? Just curious...


Awwwwwwwww, but I luv Sneaky Pete. And yes, still got the white wheels. Another 30 years when I hit Barrett Jackson, I'll be glad I kept them:D
 

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