Gen 2 Thermostat How To

[dave6666]

I'll assume 3 things before we start here:

--> You have an OEM repair manual
--> You have the correct tools (or close)
--> You have mechanical aptitude

This pictorial starts a little farther along than the beginning. I'll explain...

I already have the air box off. You'll need to remove it.

I already have the upper radiator hose off. You'll need to remove it.

I already have the windshield cowl off. You'll need to remove it. I found the wiper arms stubborn to get off and bought a $4 battery post puller from Auto Zone to assist. I'll replace that tool with something of higher quality later, but it worked.

Also, I have the water pump and steering pump off. Not required, but does not hurt. If yours are on, you'll have to work around them.

This project does not require you to completely remove the intake as your manual suggests. It will be tilted back to gain access to the t-stat housing. I think it was ViperTony that originated that.

First step is to remove the wire connections and hoses from the front of the intake.

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Now is time to undo the 20 screws attaching the intake to the heads. I found these magnetic socket inserts to be handy. Got them from Griot's Garage. Used a 7/16 socket, wobble extension and ratchet. Disconnecting the injector wires helped gain access to the lower screws. Reconnect the wires after you've got the screw out.

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Once all the intake screws are out carefully pry it loose. My '01 GTS took very little persuasion. Work your way around all 4 corners. Just get it loose. Do not try to send it anywhere!

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Next, 2 blocks of wood are needed to prop it up. Be careful as you are trying to preserve the intake gaskets. Set the blocks in resting them against the lip of the valve cover.

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You now have access to the t-stat housing. Just respect that the intake is resting on some blocks of wood in the front, and the fact that the intake ports are exposed. No dirt or other debris should be passed over them, as I had my hands in and out of there constantly. Clean hands and clean tools only through the gap of the intake and heads.

Undo the clamp on the heater core hose.

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Undo the 3 screws on the housing and work it from the heater hose and out from the intake manifold and hoses in front of it. Be gentle to not knock the intake around. I loosened the heater core hose prior to removing the t-stat housing screws, as hoses like that are usually stuck. I used a plastic tool to keep from scratching up the hose ****** or damaging the hose.

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Next thing is gasket residue. No fun. Time consuming. If you cut corners and use metal tools or don't do a good job regardless then you may have a leak when done.

I used a gasket remover aerosol. It works very slow but it works. Took maybe 2 hours with several applications of 20 to 30 minutes wait time before scraping with my plastic scraper.

Gasket remover also dissolves rubber and plastic parts so I masked off around the engine pretty well to protect the rubber and plastic. I used aluminum HVAC tape (not cloth duct tape!). Any cloth tape like duct tape, or masking tape, will absorb and pass the solvent through to what you're trying to protect. Better than nothing but I recommend the aluminum stuff even though it is expensive.

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Final step after 2 hours of watching gasket remover bubble was some detailing with citrus engine cleaner, a little shop vac action to pick up chunks, and a pass with a rubberized abrasive block to polish the gasket surface. You can skip the abrasive block, but a few careful light strokes makes it shine. I got my abrasive block from McMaster Carr.

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Carefully get everything back in place, like the gasket and heater core hose, and then re-install the 3 screws and torque to 95 in lb.

Remove the wood blocks and carefully lay the manifold back down. Re-install the 20 screws for it, the hoses and the electrical connectors.

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If you are good and fast etc, this is a 3 to 4 hour job. Less experienced Viper owners should anticipate longer.

About half of my time spent was the old gasket removal. It is critical not to scar the aluminum surfaces, and I choose to let the slow gasket remover do what it is supposed to do instead of me working ******* that part.

 

[Schulmann]

Nice post !!!

You should ask the web admin to place to place this thread into the how to section or "Do it yourself" section.

 

[Y2K5SRT]

Nice post !!!

You should ask the web admin to place to place this thread into the how to section or "Do it yourself" section.

Are you kidding me? With Venomiss stalking poor ol' Dave his post was copied to the Illustrated Upgrades before the ink was dry...

 

[viperdude118]

Next thing is gasket residue. No fun. Time consuming. If you cut corners and use metal tools or don't do a good job regardless then you may have a leak when done.

I used a gasket remover aerosol. It works very slow but it works. Took maybe 2 hours with several applications of 20 to 30 minutes wait time before scraping with my plastic scraper.

Gasket remover also dissolves rubber and plastic parts so I masked off around the engine pretty well to protect the rubber and plastic. I used aluminum HVAC tape (not cloth duct tape!). Any cloth tape like duct tape, or masking tape, will absorb and pass the solvent through to what you're trying to protect. Better than nothing but I recommend the aluminum stuff even though it is expensive..

Dave, there is a much easier way to get rid of the old gasket residue and clean up the surfaces.

A Dremel is needed, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get (Finishing Abrasive Buffs) part # 511E.

These are abrasive like scouring pads that will eat the gasket residue, but won't hurt the soft aluminum surfaces. After screwing around with a gasket scrapper and realizing it was going to take me hours to do it this way, I went down to Autozone to look around for ideas. That's where I found these scouring pads in the autobody section, but they were too big to get into the small areas needed where the T stat housing sits on top of the block.

Anyway fired up the old dremel and basically ground the old gasket residue off of all the surfaces. It left almost like a polished flat finish on the mating surfaces, and took less than 10 minutes to do everything, I even had my intake off of the car and replaced the intake gaskets, so I had those surfaces to clean also.

I don't have any leaks and everything went back together perfectly, I might add the magnetic socket inserts are a must for this job!

 

[dave6666]

I did see the Dremel pads at Home Depot. They were out of the mandrels, and I did not want to buy an 8 zillion part set for that item.

Great info though to know there is an alternate means.

 

[BOTTLEFED]

nice writeup Dave
thanks for posting it
I'll be doing this before spring
its great to see what I'll be getting into beforehand

 

[1TONY1]

No way I would do that without using new intake gaskets. They are too cheap not to put new ones on.

 

[dave6666]

No way I would do that without using new intake gaskets. They are too cheap not to put new ones on.

I agree they are cheap. I have a new set. But trying to disconnect all the junk below the coil packs made me decide that if the intake released clean, I would re-use them.

So now that I have experience with the whole process, the next time I might use them.

Have some bad stories, or was that an $0.02 affair?

 

[viperdude118]

I agree they are cheap. I have a new set. But trying to disconnect all the junk below the coil packs made me decide that if the intake released clean, I would re-use them.

So now that I have experience with the whole process, the next time I might use them.

Have some bad stories, or was that an $0.02 affair?

The only thing to disconnect is the fuel line and one little vacuum hose on the back, oh and a couple of vacuum hoses on the front and the throttle cable. Okay Dave your right, there is a few things to disconnect, but with all that work, I figured might as well change the gaskets also. Tator recommended it and I had the old gasket rip in half when I was wiggling the intake loose so I was glad I had a new one ready to replace.

 

[dave6666]

The only thing to disconnect is the fuel line and one little vacuum hose on the back, oh and a couple of vacuum hoses on the front and the throttle cable. Okay Dave your right, there is a few things to disconnect, but with all that work, I figured might as well change the gaskets also. Tator recommended it and I had the old gasket rip in half when I was wiggling the intake loose so I was glad I had a new one ready to replace.

You're forgetting about the multi-pin connectors at the base of the coil packs. I could barely see them with a mirror and flashlight...

And my gaskets released squeaky clean from the intake, so I did not use the brand new set I had standing by.

I did not however have a spare for the fuel line disconnect plastic fitting that I've read can break...

Good new is, that with some 1 inch blocks at the back I could have changed the gaskets. And still not have removed the intake.

It's about choices. You can do it your way, my way, Tators way...

 

[Viper Wizard]

It's about choices. You can do it your way, my way, Tators way...

Here's my way: I would NOT use the abrasive block nor the dremel tool and ALWAYS use new gaskets!

Get a handful of straigh edge razor blades and shave the gaskets off. The block & dremel may take matertial/aluminum off that you may not see [uneven surface] which may cause a leak. Also on ANY water port use a little silcone/RTV on the gasket! Smear a coating on both sides with your fingers [it will also hold the gasket in place].

As for using the old intake gaskets, you may have a vacumn leak from the crushed gasket and you WILL never know it until it's to late! You are NOT monitoring each cylinder for A&F just five per side. The PCM will adjust for the vacumn leak but it's an overall adjustment [5 cyls]! So you may still have a cylinder running LEAN, BAD!!

Dave's right, it's up to you??

 

[dave6666]

Thank you Chuck.

And the abrasive block... I said a few strokes to shine after all of the gasket had been chemically removed. I did not even alter the original machining marks of the gasket area.

Every one has added good comments, and as with all of the posts, add your judgment as needed.

And give ViperTony a shout about how his car is running. He invented, I illustrated...

 

[ViperTony]

Dave, great writeup and very clever idea using the wood blocks to prop up the intake. It beats strapping a long piece of 2x4 under the intake. I did replace the intake gaskets as mine fell apart when I propped up the intake. They weren't torn but seperated at the perforations. I was able to replace them with the intake propped up. Love your shiney new radiator in the pics!

 

[RAYSIR]

Dave, I agree with Chuck !! I would take the extra time and change the intake gaskets. Also, I never use the gasket remover crap in my shop. It takes way too long in a production shop. Also we never use the Dremel or abrasive pads on Aluminum. They make low spots and grooves that will leak if you slip just a little bit. We use straight razors and cut the gaskets off. Also coat the gaskets with a thin coat of Right Stuff rubber, like Chuck says. Just an IMO but been doing it for years..

 

[mike & juli]

Wowwww....great descriptions and illustrations, Dave...you certainly have a knack for posting great pics all while describing what you are doing in great detail...thanx!! ~juli
Up to post '2000' are ya....*yawn*...LOL.

 

[Andrew2KRT10]

I did the job. No question about it.....remove the intake and do the job 100%. You've gone all this way and keeping the intake on ????? For what. Take that thing off, clean all around the top of the engine. Do it up.. What's the alternative? Get the job done quick to go in the house and hang out with the wife ? Come on..........

AC

 

[dave6666]

I did the job. No question about it.....remove the intake and do the job 100%. You've gone all this way and keeping the intake on ????? For what. Take that thing off, clean all around the top of the engine. Do it up.. What's the alternative? Get the job done quick to go in the house and hang out with the wife ? Come on..........

AC

Man... You guys are brutal on me about my rubberized abrasive block. After the gasket has been 100% chemical removed and wiped clean, you stroke the surface 2 to 3 times. The only instrument to detect what I've accomplished is the shine-ola meter.

And what about nicking the aluminum with your razor blade? You don't give me credit for being careful with my abrasive block so no return favors there...

And the pros and cons to completely removing the intake... I'll make the current list:

Pros

New gaskets can be installed.
You can clean better.

Cons

Disconnecting wires on the back side of the coil packs you can barely see with a mirror.
Undoing a fuel line disconnect that I've read here can break.

Once again, the choice is yours.

BTW, I'm going to do plugs and wires shortly. I'll post the plug readings for the "your intake might leak" supporters.

 

[viperdude118]

Man... You guys are brutal on me about my rubberized abrasive block. After the gasket has been 100% chemical removed and wiped clean, you stroke the surface 2 to 3 times. The only instrument to detect what I've accomplished is the shine-ola meter.

And what about nicking the aluminum with your razor blade? You don't give me credit for being careful with my abrasive block so no return favors there...

And the pros and cons to completely removing the intake... I'll make the current list:

Pros

New gaskets can be installed.
You can clean better.

Cons

Disconnecting wires on the back side of the coil packs you can barely see with a mirror.
Undoing a fuel line disconnect that I've read here can break.

Once again, the choice is yours.

BTW, I'm going to do plugs and wires shortly. I'll post the plug readings for the "your intake might leak" supporters.

I thought I might nick and gouge the aluminum with the razor blade also, this is why I opted for the abrasive pad at speed with the dremel. The blade wasn't cleaning up the surfaces very well. I feel really lucky then that I got everything back together and don't have any leaks. If the experts say don't use the dremel, then it is probably sound advice not to use it then.