Gen I overheating

Leaf001

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I took my Gen I out for a spin yesterday and noticed when I was stopped, the temp gauge would start to rise higher than normal-no big deal. Anyways, I get stuck in some traffic and I horrifically watch the needle go into the yellow and then crest in the red. The check engine light comes on, but luckily traffic starts moving and the airflow from the car going forward brings the gauge back into tolerance.

I immediately go home, put my girl back in the garage and pop the hood. Being that the engine is off and that hot, I was expecting the fan to come on-it did not. It also sounded like the coolant was boiling in the radiator.

I'm hoping that this is a simple relay problem or that the fan is just malfunctioning. The car is a '93 and has 7,800 miles on it-so everything else should be in pretty good shape.

I do not own a shop manual and need some advise on what could be wrong. In addition, does anyone know of a decent Viper Tech in the Temecula vicinity?
 

Tom F&L GoR

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The fact that you hear boiling in the block or radiator might indicate that the rediator cap is not holding pressure. It's the 15 or 16 pounds pressure that does most of the increase in boiling point. I know, there will be some heat soak, but if you can hear something, it might be worth checking or replacing. I recommend the spring center radiator cap type.

The fan will not come on if the engine is off.

If you suspect the fan, which has two speeds, let the engine idle and creep up in temperature. At 207F (off the top of my head here) it comes on at the low speed, at 217F (another estimation) it runs at high speed. If you turn the AC on, it should automatically run at the high speed.

As always, squish some radiator hoses when it's cooled off and convince yourself they are full of fluid. Do so with the heat setting on hot so the valve to the heater core is open. If you suspect you are low on coolant, run the heater. Sounds crazy, but if you don't get the heat you expect, the heater core is empty and you are low on coolant.

Personally, I will guess it's low probably due to a leaking pressure valve in the rediator cap. Let up know what you find.
 
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Leaf001

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I popped the cap off and it is a center spring type. How did I determine if it working properly or not?

I cannot see the radiator fluid level unless I remove some cowling in the right front wheel-well and try to find the reserve level scope.

I do not have AC.

I tried to find a fuse box to ensure it just wasn't a simple blown fuse-the box is not listed in the manual?!

I will have to play with this more tomorrow, unfortunatley today is a work day for me.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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As long as the dime-sized silver valve in middle of the rubber gasket snaps closed on a clean rubber surface, should be OK. And that the rubber gasket seals to the neck of the tank, too. If it's the original cap, you might want to replace it anyway, since the rubber can get pretty hard.

Some early cars didn't have the overflow in the front fascia, only the tank on the fender?

The fuse box is above the passenger's left knee. Sounds like we'll wait to see if the fan is running.
 

95Viper

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What does your cap look like? Aluminum top or black plastic? You might be confusing the spring.

Do not replace it with a OEM gen1 cap. Replace with a 2001 cap.
 
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Leaf001

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The cap is silver with a small tap in the middle. I took the cap off and reseated it than took it out for a spin.

There was no problems at all-the fans came on when I stopped and brought the temp down.

I did top off the coolant level afterwards, but whatever was wrong seems to have been a fluke.

Thanks for all the quick replies and advice!
 

95Viper

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Leaf001, Your cap is not a spring type. Hold it upright as if it was on car and look at it from underneath. You'll see the small round disc in the center dangling. When the system pressurizes, the disk moves up and seals the center of the cap.

A 2001 cap is a spring center. Call Tator and order one and you'll see what I mean. Do this even if you aren't having the problem right now. Trust me.
 
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