GTS sway bar bushings

Hirkophoto

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Does anyone know what size the bushings are for the front and back I want to replace them with energy red bushings. (2000 GTS)
 

jay01m

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While we're on the subject, what about sway bar boots or the connecting rods? The boots on mine are shot so want to replace them sometime soon.
 

terminator02

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While we're on the subject, what about sway bar boots or the connecting rods? The boots on mine are shot so want to replace them sometime soon.

Are you talking about the end links? Those things are like 175 bucks a piece....talk about Viper tax on those.....
 

MTGTS

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Should we assume that the 2000 size is no different than the 1998?
I would guess that but you never know. (they don't show a size for 2000)

They are the same size. ANy of the vendors on the site should have them in stock
 

AZTVR

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Should we assume that the 2000 size is no different than the 1998?
I would guess that but you never know. (they don't show a size for 2000)

The part # in the 2000 and 1998 parts manual is the same # 4643 004 BUSHING, Sway Bar, Stabilzer Bar Clamp. (Front Suspension) and 4643 031 BUSHING, Sway Bar (Rear Suspension)
 
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AZTVR

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If you go to a tighter bushing you will create more under steer. If your car is now neutral you will change the balance.

What if one replaces both front and rear with the same type/stiffness?

Would you recommend that an OEM replacement would be the better way to go? The only thing that would concern me is that maybe the OEM rubber parts have been sitting in stock for 8 years and are no longer what they were designed to be anyway?

( I have thought about this change also; but, had not followed through with an investigation of options yet.)
 

jay01m

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Are you talking about the end links? Those things are like 175 bucks a piece....talk about Viper tax on those.....

Yup, highway robbery, and they are hard to find. Hell, for a couple more hundred, I can get a completely new adjustable sway bar.
 

Jack B

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What if one replaces both front and rear with the same type/stiffness?

Would you recommend that an OEM replacement would be the better way to go? The only thing that would concern me is that maybe the OEM rubber parts have been sitting in stock for 8 years and are no longer what they were designed to be anyway?

( I have thought about this change also; but, had not followed through with an investigation of options yet.)

There are way too many variables to project and it depends where the car is relative to neutral steer.I just wanted to throw out a what if. I bought an adjustable front stabilizer bar (Woodhouse I believe) and have always kept it on the low (loose) setting. My car is about as neutral as it gets. The original thought was to tighten the bar up, but, that proved wrong.
 

Jance GTS

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I did everything mentioned. I bought a pair used sway bar end links for only $80 and they looked brand new from Shannon at X2Vipers.

I got the energy suspension parts too. I believe the rear is 7/8" but I can't remember for sure...

Front: 9.5162R (Red Bushing)

Rear: 9.5158R (Red Bushing)

The rear bracket bolts up but it might be a good idea to make the holes bigger on the mounting tab so the bolts aren't angled. The front is the same way. I've barely driven the car with these on so I don't know about understeer or if they are better than stock. I was in the same boat, 10 years old and worn out.
 

jay01m

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Thanks for the insight. I have X2 on my saved numbers, might give them a ring tomorrow.

I did everything mentioned. I bought a pair used sway bar end links for only $80 and they looked brand new from Shannon at X2Vipers.

I got the energy suspension parts too. I believe the rear is 7/8" but I can't remember for sure...

Front: 9.5162R (Red Bushing)

Rear: 9.5158R (Red Bushing)

The rear bracket bolts up but it might be a good idea to make the holes bigger on the mounting tab so the bolts aren't angled. The front is the same way. I've barely driven the car with these on so I don't know about understeer or if they are better than stock. I was in the same boat, 10 years old and worn out.
 

jmasin

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There are way too many variables to project and it depends where the car is relative to neutral steer.I just wanted to throw out a what if. I bought an adjustable front stabilizer bar (Woodhouse I believe) and have always kept it on the low (loose) setting. My car is about as neutral as it gets. The original thought was to tighten the bar up, but, that proved wrong.

A stiffer bar will reduce body roll, but as you mention it needs to be balanced.

Also, on adjustable bars, you don't really want any preload.

I'm still learning the Viper, but on Vettes with adjustable end-links the best way is to adjust them to zero preload with the car weighted exactly as driven, i.e. even with driver weight. Many put a stack of old rotors in their seat to mimic driver weight during adjustment.

The advantage of adjustable is to accommodate change in ride height, weighting etc.

Again, all my knowledge was developed on Vettes, so if there is a Viper delta, forgive me :)
 

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